compass reccomendation?

I use this one:

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and here are the directions to use it:

http://outdoorproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Lensatic-Compass1.pdf
 
Ausseknifeknut said:
Thanks for the recommendations , I'll be shopping for one around the middle of July. I don't actually need one ATM , but it's a good skill to learn and something great to add to my gear. I also want to learn how to sew , and do my first aid course again , as I haven't done it since high school .
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Army taught me to properly sew and use a sewing machine. Parachute Rigger course in 1989. Loved that course.
 
The Suunto M3 Leader is my favorite. No silly mirrors or gizmos to monkey with or get in the way. It's very well made with markings that deeply cut into the base plate and won't wear off. The bezel action is really smooth, and has a magnetic declination adjustment screw - set it once for your area and ignore it after that. I've used dozens of compasses and found that Suunto is the least likely to develop air bubbles due to extreme temps or elevation changes.

A bargain for $30.

As a professional archaeologist, I've mapped hundreds (a thousand?) archaeological sites with only one of these and a topo map:

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There's a more expensive version too with a built-in clinometer (I never use it) and global needle if you need those features.
 
I want to join the army , but I can't. I have back problems , asthma , wouldn't pass the physicals , and have a big problem with authority
 
Ausseknifeknut said:
I want to join the army , but I can't. I have back problems , asthma , wouldn't pass the physicals , and have a big problem with authority
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Then why in the hell would you want to join the army?!? :confused:

I feel sorry for any army that tries to draft me. :D
 
Tradition is important. But I prefer being on my own when out in the bush or on nature walks, and with the flexibility and freedom to choose my own destinations.
 
leghog said:
After 20 years in the Army and 45 in the woods, I'll tell you you really don't need a sighting mirror or a compass with adjustable declination. A good basic baseplate compass is really all you need to navigate with map and compass.
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Listen to leghog (I used to teach map and compass). When I was orienteering, I used a Silva compass that only differed from the most basic model by having a longer baseplate, which is useful for aligning with your start and end points on the map. The baseplate should have straight, parallel sides. "Ergonomic" baseplates curved to fit your hand are designed by people who have no clue how a protractor compass is used.

In most cases, you don't have to do any math even with a basic compass. The A-10 in post #3 has declination markings (the red numbers inside the compass housing that go 0-60 east and west). Once you get the declination from the map, place the north end of the needle over the appropriate number, rather than over the north arrow. What you are doing is recreating the little declination diagram on the map, with the needle as magnetic north and the red arrow as true. That's all adjustable declination systems do anyway.

Mirrors, lenses, and other sighting devices will indeed take (slightly) more accurate bearings. The problem is that humans can't walk in a straight enough line to take advantage of the improved accuracy.
 
Just remember....there's a difference between true north and magnetic north.

and also remember, it helps to know your terrain. At our cabin, compasses and GPS don't work. The mountains are filled with iron ore, rendering technology almost useless. Cell phones don't work and using hand-held radios are seriously limited. I can stand anywhere within a 2 mile radius [in one particular area] and my compass will do nothing but spin.
 
druid189 said:
Just remember....there's a difference between true north and magnetic north.
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When using map and compass the difference between true north and magnetic north truly doesn't matter and can be ignored. The difference that matters is the difference between grid north and magnetic north. Ignoring the difference between grid north and magnetic north can cause significant error depending on the amount of declination --- at my location the difference between grid north and magnetic north is over 10 degrees/177mils, and if unaccounted for, that angular difference is significant over any distance.
 
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leghog said:
When using map and compass the difference between true north and magnetic north truly doesn't matter and can be ignored. The difference that matters is the difference between grid north and magnetic north. Ignoring the difference between grid north and magnetic north can cause significant error depending on the amount of declination --- at my location the difference between grid north and magnetic north is over 10 degrees/177mils, and if unaccounted for, that angular difference is significant over any distance.
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Yes I misspoke. I meant to say "grid" when I said "true" - where I hunt the difference between grid and magnetic north can mean < miles off course [depending on distance traveled, of course]. Thanks for pointing out my booboo.
 
Ppl are only human. Two more weeks til I get paid for the month , I'll be buying a compass then. A few other little bits and pieces too :)
 
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