• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Compasses?

And now I don't agree...

Kind regards,

Jos

Jos,

If you read the link to the review I posted on that compass, there are pictures and facts detailing exactly why. You don't even have to believe me. I tell you how to repeat the experiment yourself.

The problem is that when you are using the sighting mirror in alignment that lets you see the alignment line opposite the capsule, it is high enough that when you do the "circle in circle" alignment at angles not close to in-line with the mirror, the parallax error can cause you to be off by more than 7 degrees!

I have serious problems with this compass because it is the only one that I know that lets you think you are taking an accurate bearing, when you are not. It is easy to say "I don't agree" and quite another to give me the benefit of the doubt, read the article, try the experiment for yourself, and hopefully save your ass one day! I don't intend to insult your favorite toy for the sake of insulting it. I seriously think that is the most dangerous compass I have ever come across.

B
 
If you read the link to the review I posted on that compass, there are pictures and facts detailing exactly why. You don't even have to believe me. I tell you how to repeat the experiment yourself.

OK. I just finished reading your review. I see your point about the paralax issue. Your solution of putting the sighting mirror as low as possible is something I did from the beginning (coincidence?).

I'm a topographic surveyor, so compensating for paralax is second nature to me! (although nowadays we rely more on GPS isntead of optical instruments).

hopefully save your ass one day!

For saving my ass I always carry this nice and simple very basic compass everywhere I go:

LARGE_com_field7.jpg


So after reading your review, I take back my comment about not agreeing. It can be dangerous indeed.

Kind regards,

Jos
 
A sampling of my compasses. Some are missing. I love the 8099 and I don't find the parallax an issue. I don't find it difficult to make corrections for it by adjusting your view of the circles. It is a daytime compass though unless you possess external illumination. The box of 30 compasses I use teaching classes to CERT teams and Fire departments, SAR teams and orienteering students. The military compass was the one I used in the Army and taught Cavalry scouts with and for my own military use as a squad leader in charge of a recon squad. The Swiss army compass is also a great box compass that I really enjoy using also. I have a Silva Ranger 15CL somewhere that I have used for years, my wife bought me the first year we were married and was doing a lot of orienteering then. Another really good compass.

KR

DSCI0245.jpg
 
COMPASS006.jpg


Personal favorite and most recommended, the Suunto MC-2D.
 
My compasses:

The Cammenga to the right, which I have used extensivley on expeditions to Kenya.

The compass on the left is a Stanley G-150. It is a British military compass and this one has been fully restored with new seals, fluids that won't eat at the seals and lights. It is an all brass construction (painted olive drab) with a mother of pearl card. It was used in the 80's and restored by Paul Crespel of Trade Mark London. http://www.trademarklondon.com/index.html

Paul is extremely knowledgeable and even wrote an extensive book on Francis Barker compasses. You can get all sorts of modern and antique compasses from he and his brother. Modern Barkers are quite expensive and the G-150 and the Barker are pretty much the same, even the parts can be switched out. One of the few differences is price. While this was expensive, Barkers are a little more.

The G-150 is in Mils and I have used it when hiking through the Menominee Reservation last year, very dense woodland in Wisconsin.


Both are tough as hell!!


PA310029.jpg
[/IMG]



PA310031.jpg
[/IMG]




On the Reservation:


P5090027.jpg
[/IMG]
 
I read your linked review, very interesting, but you're overly concerned about the whistles and bells on two particular compasses. After reading your following comment about the Cammenga, I tend to question everything you say. I've been using military-style lensatic compasses, Silvas and a few other things since I was a Boy Scout 50 years ago. Today I use a Cammenga. Let's take a look at your comments:

It's Cammenga, and there are TONS of reasons not to use one. They are built like a tank no doubt, but they lack in the following areas:

- No declination adjustment. Wrong, it's right there on the glass, you simply adjust it to the declination, or variation, as indicated in the information on your topo map or chart. Put your compass needle on that and then the lubber line, or sighting line, of the compass is oriented to true north...which is how the map is layed out.

- If you don't want to remember your bearing, the bezel is only good for 3 degree clicks. Why would you NOT want to remember your bearing? If you're memory-challenged, you should be carrying a notebook to write this stuff down. It is important.

- If you like to work in degrees, there are only 5 degree graduations. So what? Are you saying you can't visually split up 5 degrees?


- And the biggest, is the lack of a protractor. Requires you to do the "orient the map to north" and then rely on accurate magnetic reading just to get a bearing off a map. Very difficult in the field and next to impossible on a flat surface. Most tables have metal, most counters have screws. I don't know where to start. You don't need a protractor. You're not plotting a straight line course as they do for blue water navigation. You can't follow a straight line course over hill and dale, over the river and through the woods. You're sighting on visible landmarks, checking again and re-checking. But if you want a protractor, then carry a good one, they're lightweight. I use a 5x5" 360 degree Weems & Plath protractor that is see-through, flexible and weighs nothing. Why is it a problem to orient the map to north? That's what you want to do. And "rely on accurate magnetic reading just to get a bearing off a map"? That's what you want to do, I would think. Orienting a map in the field should not be a problem.

The military uses a separate protractor for measuring angles. PITA for outdoorsman. They also use MATH :barf: Again, not good for an outdoorsman. Working with MILS does make the math incredibly easy, but why do that to yourself when a built in protractor is so much easier? Uuhhh. What kind of MATH? Adding and subtracting? Angles are used for triangulating your position, or getting a "fix" on your position. A simple procedure, anybody using a map and compass should know how to do that. The MILS on a Cammenga are used for range finding, not direction finding. Do you think the members of this forum are so challenged that they cannot do simple math?

Good for calling in mortar rounds, but not so much fun for the outdoorsman. LOL The way the world is going today, the outdoorsman may need to know how to call in mortar rounds :D

B

Brian, your intentions are good, but I think the first thing that people need to learn how to do is read a topographical map and be aware of all the information that is there; to understand longitude and latitude, which are indicated on the side of the map; how to interpret elevation lines and other geographic features. There are people out there who teach this and it's worth the investment before you throw yourself out into the wilderness. Once you understand the topographical map (or nautical chart) almost any compass will do. Today, I would also recommend a hand-held GPS and a supply of batteries. Map, compass, GPS.

Cheers, Don

Edit: I take issue with the notion that a soldier in the field is not an "outdoorsman". I also take issue with the idea that the outdoorsmen on this forum will be inconvenienced by having to carry a protractor, understand angles, add and subtract, or otherwise have to use their brains.

Edit 2: It's all about situational awareness. A fancy compass will not necessarily save you, if you don't know where you are on the map. Pre-planning and studying the map of the area that you are going into will save you from getting lost. That's a survival issue.
 
Last edited:
It's Cammenga, and there are TONS of reasons not to use one. They are built like a tank no doubt, but they lack in the following areas:


B

One item I have a problem with is the very small numbers. I know I'm old and a little farsighted but I can read a newspaper without glasses. I need to use my glasses to see the numbers on the Cammenga. For me it is easier to use the (old) Silva Ranger. I normally use the Sunnto M2 (on the right) for normal use because it is small and handy and I do not really do much sighting. The ones on the left are for general orientation.

The compasses are pointing in all different directions because of the magnetic interferrance between them.

Compasses.jpg
 
Hey Don,

I don't know how to quote a quote of a quote, so I may mess this up a bit here.

I think I need to take a step back here. I am pretty set on the fact that I do not believe the 8099 is a good compass. Mainly because the issues I detailed.

Someone else commented that they "got used to aligning the circles different." I tried that method for awhile but find how you align them changes between 10 degrees off center, versus 20, versus 30, all the way to the worst case 45.

So, I will stand my my statement of "avoid that compass."

However, with respect to the rest of the stuff, that is where I mean to say "Let's take a step back." I am not saying that all other compasses are junk, or don't use them, or don't buy them. All I am saying is that there is a VERY EASY methods for doing things, in which a protractor style compass makes our lives easy, so why complicate things?

Let me see if I can comment on some of your comments then go from there.

"- No declination adjustment. Wrong, it's right there on the glass, you simply adjust it to the declination, or variation, as indicated in the information on your topo map or chart. Put your compass needle on that and then the lubber line, or sighting line, of the compass is oriented to true north...which is how the map is layed out."

My statement of no declination adjustment IS accurate. You can not adjust the compass. You are adjusting your map, which is fine. But, my argument is that this is not the easiest method. Here is why.

1) It forced you to orient your map to north (or magnetic north to compensate for declination as you intended). Then, you have to rotate the compass to get your bearing. In the field, I find this very difficult because it seems like the minute you move your compass, the map invariable moves. Causing you to start over. If you try to do this method on a table, counter top or any other flat surface, you can not trust the location of the north seeking needle, and therefore your bearing. Try moving your compass around a table and see what happens to the needle. Now make your best guess at where on the table you should trust your reading.

If you go with the "protractor method" you line the side of the compass up with your intended direction of travel. Then, you simply rotate the bezel so that the capsule meridians are lined up with either the map meridians (or magnetic lines if you drew them) and you are done. All you are doing is simply measuring the angle between your desired direction of travel and north. Just a measurement with the protractor. You can be doing with while jumping up and down, dancing in a circle and the north seeking needle could be spinning in circles. It is a much faster, easier, and accurate method.


"- If you don't want to remember your bearing, the bezel is only good for 3 degree clicks. Why would you NOT want to remember your bearing? If you're memory-challenged, you should be carrying a notebook to write this stuff down. It is important."

I will give you that one. You should right things down. However, that bezel is also used for nighttime navigation so that you do not have to turn on your light. Just align the glow line on the north seeking needle with the bezel glow line. I am personally not happy with 3 degrees of accuracy.

"- If you like to work in degrees, there are only 5 degree graduations. So what? Are you saying you can't visually split up 5 degrees?"

Yes, you can. But more guessing. Why so accurate a compass and having guesswork? All I am saying is that this is a drawback when compared to others.


"- You're not plotting a straight line course as they do for blue water navigation. You can't follow a straight line course over hill and dale, over the river and through the woods. You're sighting on visible landmarks, checking again and re-checking. But if you want a protractor, then carry a good one, they're lightweight. I use a 5x5" 360 degree Weems & Plath protractor that is see-through, flexible and weighs nothing. Why is it a problem to orient the map to north? That's what you want to do. And "rely on accurate magnetic reading just to get a bearing off a map"? That's what you want to do, I would think. Orienting a map in the field should not be a problem."

Again, the protractor is "just another thing to remeber" when many compasses already have them built in.

Sure, orient your map quickly for terrain recognition, and I do all the time. But as I detailed above, it is not necessary just to pull a bearing off a map.

"Uuhhh. What kind of MATH? Adding and subtracting? Angles are used for triangulating your position, or getting a "fix" on your position."

- Again, I am not saying that it is not possible. Just saying there is a much easier way, once it is learned. So why bother messing with adding and subtracting, especially when you don't have to. Wet, cold, dark, late to camp, I would rather keep it simple than adding and subtracting.

I full agree with you that terrain recognition is super valuable and the way to go. You mention that there are people out there who teach that, and I am indeed one of those :D

With terrain recognition your confidence goes way up, and makes traditional navigation almost unnecessary. The warning that goes with that is that it is a skill that does take a lot of time and practice to get good at. There is no question that I think it is the most valuable navigation tool. However, that was never in question in this thread.

Unfortunately, most threads are about gear (the compass) and not skills. Terrain recognition is the way to go :thumbup:

Like you said, once you understand things "any compass will do." I agree with you totally, but it is still my opinion, that if you have the choice, make it easy on yourself!!! Hence my recommendation of a compass with a protractor.

"Why is it a problem to orient the map to north? That's what you want to do. And "rely on accurate magnetic reading just to get a bearing off a map"? That's what you want to do, I would think. "

I also do find this comment odd. No offense, but by asking the question, you are telling me what you know and don't know. What you don't appear to know is the method I am talking about, yet I know the one you are talking about. Not knowing what I am talking about makes it seem odd to me that you are telling me the better way to do things.

If you are comfortable and competent with your method, then that is great. I just want to get across to people that there is an extremely easy way to do this stuff. I am trying to hand a gift, and people are fighting it. I guess I will just stop talking about navigation.

B
 
Last edited:
Brian, thank you for your comments, I know we're both on the same page.

My recommendation is, get a good topographical map of the area that you are going into. Study that map at home before you park the car at the trail head and go launching into the wilderness.

You should know the difference between magnetic north and true north (which is the way your map is oriented). And you should know how to compensate for it.

Knowing the map and the terrain in front of you is of prime importance.

Learn to read that map. There is a lot of information on it, information that most people ignore.

Once you recognize that information and learn how to interpret it, then you will find it a joy to use that special compass you like.

I personally find navigation on land or on water to be a fascinating study. This may seem like old fart-gas to the youngsters here, but once you get into it you will see how important it is to survival.
 
Interesting thread. Lot's of opinions to consider.

Given my situation, experiences, and outdoor activities, I'm with hollowdweller.

I have a number of compasses but honestly 90% of the time as long as I have a topo map the most simple one along with being able to view the topography will keep me on the trail.

Most of the time (95%+) a map and terrain association is what gets me from point A to B. I'm constantly observing my surroundings for landmarks, roads, streams, etc. that I can check against the map to pinpoint my location. The compass I go to is a simple Suunto Clipper.

Compass009.jpg


I'll refer to it to make sure direction I think I'm heading is correct. My stomping grounds are the east coast, mainly along the Appalachians from Georgia to Maine. I don't have much experience in the wide open spaces out west, so what works for me might be different there.

If I need something more precise, I rely on my 20+ year old Silva Ranger.

Compass011.jpg


This is what I go to when I grab a bearing off a map, or follow one in the woods. It's my SAR compass.

The comments on the Cammenga are interesting given that I just ordered one. I follow the pros/cons as presented, but I've never played with one and want to give it a try.

Regarding a GPS. I have one, but don't like to navigate by it. I use it strictly to get coordinates. For me, this is mainly a SAR activity, since we get or give coordinates depending on what we're doing.
 
Bushman5,

I like that Suunto, but am not sure what you are referring to in your "backwards" comment here? Can you explain how you use a sighting mirror?

"Its a major step up from having to be backwards from your landmark and looking into a tiny mirror..........."

Here's my Ranger:

SANY0014-1.jpg
 
I like the Suunto MC-2DL. Which is essentially the same as the old Silva Ranger.

The current Silva Ranger is made in Indonesia, and is not the same quality as the old Swedish Silva.

That Brunton 8099, I wouldn't touch. Sure, everything gets a bad review now and again, but the bad reviews on that compass are frequent and consistent in their complaints.

My Ranger says Finland on it.
 
I've used a huge variety of compasses on a regular basis, from the military to teaching Scouts, to professionally mountain guiding to SAR. My favorite compass by far is the Suunto MC-2G. I have 3 of them. Get any of the MC-2's and you can't go wrong.

When in the military I backed up my issue compasses with a cheap little Silva starter compass I got as a Boy Scout. I've had multiple issue compasses freeze up and it was that little Silva that helped me get my Expert Infantry Badge when the military model froze on me.
 
HornyToad: Can you identify the wristband compass in the lower-right position in your picture? -- Bear
 
Back
Top