Compression lock or ball bearing

Compression.

  • Ball bearing locks are sticky sometimes
  • They're not as easy to keep fingers out of the blade path as compression
  • Spyderco's ball bearing lock is kind of an Axis Lock wannabe; compression lock is an original Spyderco design.
The Manix2 is a bigger knife than the Para 3. Maybe choose based on what size you'd find most useful.
 
cnm123 said:
Not meant to hijack thread...
Brando555: it worked great, not quite an axis but damn close.
Click to expand...
Would you be able to describe the "honing" process you used on the surfaces in a little more detail? I just got myself a Manix 2 XL (first Spyderco), and the only gripe I have is that the lock is the tiniest bit too stiff for my taste
 
I could feel the ball bearing catching. Mine had a very slight lip/ramp to the edge of the blade tang right where the ball contacts. I lightly took a Lansky fine diamond hone to that area and just flattened it out then the ultra fine stone to polish. (I did the same to the upper back spacer/spring enclosure).
It only took literally 15-20 passes to smooth it out. It looks like it could be done without taking it apart if you have a flat needle file that can fit between the liners.
The difference is amazing. I can unlock now w/ just my thumb and the action is just butter.

I have since sold that particular knife.

Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
cnm123 said:
I could feel the ball bearing catching. Mine had a very slight lip/ramp to the edge of the blade tang right where the ball contacts. I lightly took a Lansky fine diamond hone to that area and just flattened it out then the ultra fine stone to polish. (I did the same to the upper back spacer/spring enclosure).
It only took literally 15-20 passes to smooth it out. It looks like it could be done without taking it apart if you have a flat needle file that can fit between the liners.
The difference is amazing. I can unlock now w/ just my thumb and the action is just butter.
Click to expand...
Thanks! No diamond rod I'm afraid, you think the ceramic stone of a Sharpmaker, or just a file, would have a similar effect?
 
Sure, why not? Just start with light passes, maybe use a sharpie to highlight high/low areas, and go a little at a time.
FYI this was on a S30V blade. YMMV on other steels.
 
As others have said, go with the knife that has the best over all design to you.
I have Spydercos with both locks, any lock stick is quickly worn away/ smoothed out with use.
Both locks are solid and easy to operate one handed. The comp. lock gets your fingers out of the way, but the BBL is very predictable and I've never shut my Manix 2 on my grabbers.
I highly prefer these locks to the axis lock. The axis lock feels loose and clunky to me, where as the other two mechs. in question have more of that bank vault click opening and closing.

P.S. My Manix lock spring was a bit stiff at first but after a year or so of on and off carry and moderate to hard use (nothing extreme) my spring isn't much stiffer than an axis lock to pull back and still locks up strong.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top