Conceptual Drawings for First Knives. Feedback encouraged.

A

Almightyox

Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
155
I just received some 1084 steel in the mail and I plan to make my first couple of knives very soon. Today I sat down with my pencil and graph paper, and after looking through pictures posted on the forums and elsewhere I came up with two designs that I think will come out very nice. I have included measurements to give everyone an idea of size. I was just wondering if anyone had any feedback, things that will be hard to work, things that are fundamentally wrong that I don't see, or any positive encouragement. I look forward to putting file to steel and making something I can be proud of. Thanks for looking.

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The double choil might be a spot in which you could change? Create a large finger choil instead.
 
maybe it's just me. designs on the blade are really good IMHO... i would crituque a couple things though, since you're asking. top one i would lose the double choil as i can't imagine why it would be beneficial at all and i find it draws the eye toward it instead of the overall shape. as well, i would smoothen out the transition on the handle in the areas that look like finger grooves (front and rear) as they seem pretty blunt and i can imagine they would become fatiguing on the hand over time. The bottom one is really a cool design however i think i would round the area more where the index finger would go on the handle as again it seems like it would get uncomfortable... take it with a grain of salt, as it's just my thoughts looking at them and there isn't a line around the corner for any of my knives so what do i know.

good luck
 
The edge side of the top knife needs to be forgotten - forever. The bottom knife is better. Try and smooth out the curves.
 
rustyrazor said:
maybe it's just me. designs on the blade are really good IMHO... i would crituque a couple things though, since you're asking. top one i would lose the double choil as i can't imagine why it would be beneficial at all and i find it draws the eye toward it instead of the overall shape. as well, i would smoothen out the transition on the handle in the areas that look like finger grooves (front and rear) as they seem pretty blunt and i can imagine they would become fatiguing on the hand over time. The bottom one is really a cool design however i think i would round the area more where the index finger would go on the handle as again it seems like it would get uncomfortable... take it with a grain of salt, as it's just my thoughts looking at them and there isn't a line around the corner for any of my knives so what do i know.

good luck
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ARundrpillow said:
I agree. I like the bottom design better
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Thanks a lot guys. Would the top design be saved if I got rid of the front choil and made it a completely straight cutting edge? That was something I had been considering anyway. I appreciate all the feedback, and how you give ideas on how to improve my designs.
 
Also, since the top is meant to be a more robust knife and my steel is only 1/8 inch thick, would it be better in with a scandi grind moving about 1/2" up the blade to give it a little thicker feel, or a full grind?
 
Full grind and you will have a good cutter, also seems like the handle is a little short, I like mine closer to 5", if you have small hands may fit well.
 
Great advice from some great minds already. I would add to round out that flat section on the bottom knife, go for a smooth curve all the way from butt to tip.
 
A big thank you to everyone that has helped me out so far!

Patrickknives said:
Full grind and you will have a good cutter, also seems like the handle is a little short, I like mine closer to 5", if you have small hands may fit well.
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My hands are rather small. I might up it to around 4" and extend the blade a little bit. I might make my blank out of some spare weld steel I have laying around to get a feel for size before I use any of my good steel.
 
Almightyox said:
Thanks a lot guys. Would the top design be saved if I got rid of the front choil and made it a completely straight cutting edge? That was something I had been considering anyway. I appreciate all the feedback, and how you give ideas on how to improve my designs.
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hey, hey, hey... i'm not saying get rid of all choils forever, but i am fairly convinced that one is the limit. i've taken most of my choil cues from other knives and makers i have liked over the years and that's my suggestion to you. I personally like the shape of the top blade but i would cut back on the choils by at least 50% and smoothen out the rounds and make it more user friendly.
 
I'm new at this...but I was in your position a week ago. Make some wood cut outs of the profiles. I used 1/2" plywood. You'll figure out quite quickly how it feels in your hand. Pay attention to pressure points. Also I learned that if you profile the handle area with features that are intended to interface with certain portions of your hand, they need to be placed correctly. In that vain, I believe your top handle is too short...the pinky and index finger grooves are only 2.5" apart...that would require a tiny hand to be comfortable. If you don't want to lengthen the handle then take some of the curves out. Use some wood first...that is about the width of your finished handle.

Good luck.
 
Well guys, just to keep you posted, I made another drawing and cut a blank yesterday. Today I put a decent bevel. I tried a full flat grind feeling that it would be easier to finish for my first knife. I am curious however if I should do any sanding on my blade before I go to HT or save all that work for after my blade is hardened and tempered? I have heard of people doing it both ways. Thank again for all the help from everyone!
 
I think you can bring the edge around .08" thick before heat treat without risking warpage. Depending on the steel and hardness it can be a real pain to grind off steel after hardening.- I learned that about cpm 3v the hard way!!!
You really might want to try a wood model before spending more time shaping steel though. It's quick and indeed very informative.
 
fishface5 said:
I think you can bring the edge around .08" thick before heat treat without risking warpage. Depending on the steel and hardness it can be a real pain to grind off steel after hardening.- I learned that about cpm 3v the hard way!!!
You really might want to try a wood model before spending more time shaping steel though. It's quick and indeed very informative.
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Either a typo or a big error.....08" is over 1/16" thick. Many of my blades start out thinner than .08" The edge should be .030" range for carbon steels and .015" range for stainless and high allow tool steels. I usually go .020" and .010" " lower than that when doing my own HT.
 
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