Conditioners for New and Old Leather Sheaths and Holsters

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Mar 4, 2023
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What do you all use and suggest to condition new Leather Knife Sheaths? What do you use to bring back an old forgotten leather holsters to like new condition?
I have an ample supply of both new and old leather sheaths. Not one for applying chemical based products but open for discussion from the experts.
Thank you in advance.
 
This is a great question because I'm legitimately sitting here with a really cool old tool pouch that I got from eBay.

They just didn't say it way stiff as a board and musty as all heck. Like it's been in someone's dank basement for 20 years.

Saddle soap got it looking good and seemed to get rid of much of the smell.

Now is a generous coating of obenaufs heavy duty leather preservative.
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So, I would say that if you have something really crusty then saddle soap is it.

Other than that, obenaufs is awesome for the normal stuff.
 
Some leather conditioners will corrode steel and although I consider Obenaufs the very best for conditioning and water proofing boots I wouldn't use it on a leather knife sheath. This is good stuff:
 
That's a nice looking tool pouch.

Saddle soap is the ticket for cleaning leather, also great for slicking edges. It doesn't really do anything to condition the leather, though.

There's quite a few good products / procedures for conditioning leather, but one of the best products (2 products, actually) I've found is Montana Pitch Blend.

It's fantastic for new or old leather, and I've never seen any kind of adverse affect on any metals. Been using it for well over a decade.
 
This is a picture of a S&W K22 Masterpiece given to me by may dear father-in-law. In was stored in a holster that he treated with leather conditioner. Note the finish damage at the front of the barrel.

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This is a picture of a S&W K22 Masterpiece given to me by may dear father-in-law. In was stored in a holster that he treated with leather conditioner. Note the finish damage at the front of the barrel.

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I doubt that's from whatever was used on the leather and more likely from it being chrome tanned or holding moisture. Also I'm assuming he was right handed? So more wear on the left side of the barrel. My guns have similar wear, but on the right side because I'm left handed. The front of the muzzle rubs the holster as it's put back into the holster.
Most leather treatments contain all or mostly beeswax, including Obenauf's.
 
Obenauf's oil to reoil the leather. A light coat or two goes a long way. Too much and it gets soft and way too much of any oil will weaken leather to the point you can tear it as if it were cardboard.
Obenauf's LP, the wax if it's in good condition, and you can apply wax much more frequently if needed. Obenauf's is beewax with propolis, another bee produced product that has some antibacterial qualities, and a leather oil (obviously the oil is mostly oil, and the wax is almost all wax). Nothing to cause corrosion to metal. So oil to refurbish, and maybe a light coat as needed, and the wax more frequently to keep it in good condition. The oil should be needed less with something like Obenaufs or Hubbard's as both have some oil mixed with their wax.

A mix of mostly beeswax and carnauba is a good homemade product for any leather or wood. Melt it in a small double boiler or similar, and apply the melted wax to the leather (or wood).

Or for dedicated use on wood and metal you can melt it and mix it with RAW linseed oil (make sure it's raw, not "boiled"). The raw linseed oil will keep it from being too hard to use, and give a little more protection to wood. Over a very long period it will harden in the wood similar to boiled but not be toxic (almost all boiled linseed isn't heated anymore it contains chemicals to cause it to cure) and won't cure in the container.
 
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I used Saddle Soap to clean up the leather. Did a great job. I’m waiting for an order to be delivered for a bottle of Obenaufs.
I hang my old/new sheaths and holsters in a gun safe with electric safe dryers. It has kept any mold from forming on them for the most part. Just lack of use and forgotten, and in need of a pick me up.
I have some Pure Linseed Oil but not confident of its ability to condition the leathers.
 
Montana Pitch Blend's "Oil & Conditioner" is liquid and is beyond excellent, that's what what I would use in that instance (Not their "Leather Dressing").

Skidmore's leather cream is another that's excellent.

I've used just about everything on the market and those two are what I've found work the best in my opinion, especially together.

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Yeah, I do the same with the Montana Pitch Blend's Leather Oil and Conditioner first and then Fiebing's Aussie Cream on top. Gives a great finish and can be easily conditioned again when needed.
 
If you have nice leather gun holster's and read the manufacturer's recommendations the treatment of these premium holsters it sure ain't going to be Obenauf's or saddle soaps.
 
If you have nice leather gun holster's and read the manufacturer's recommendations the treatment of these premium holsters it sure ain't going to be Obenauf's or saddle soaps.
What do they recommend on premium holsters in your experience? I haven't heard of any issues with Obenaufs or saddle soaps.

The OP is looking to refurbish old, dried leather it sounds like. In that case I'd use an oil that would penetrate. After that a surface treatment will help seal things up.
 
Sorry boys, late to the party. Been out of town for a week and just getting back into the flow of things. Pretty interesting discussion so far. I'll tell you what I use. My perspective comes not only as a maker but as an end user too. My recommendations are also from custom saddle makers that we have used over the years. Long time ago I figured they might be someone to listen too. These saddles can cost more than a used car, so taking care of them is important. Plus they are used and used hard in all weathers and with an additional wear factor not seen on most sheaths or holsters etc, a sweaty horse.

I will use a compressor to blow loose dust and dirt away first. I take care to blow it away from the saddle as much as possible.

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Not a big fan of saddle soaps, don't own any. Nothing against em but If some leather is really dirty I use warm water with some Dawn in it. Works extremely well and most folks have it on hand all the time.

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It works so well I often times have to change it out and start with a new batch of water. It can get to be darn near mud in that bucket. Here's the inside of the fender (the stirrup is bent up over the seat of the saddle). That's dried horse sweat and its gonna get a good scrubbing with the soap and water:

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I too am a big fan of Skidmores, heck 25 odd years ago I was a dealer for Skidmores. Sold it in our booth at shows. No longer a dealer but definitely a user. This product is recommended by many saddle makers and is by our current saddle maker. They even use it during construction, getting to a lot of the places that cause squeaks on a new saddle that are hard to get too after the saddle is built. Skidmore's is a great conditioner and penetrates deeply. It's also pretty good on leather that has suffered some abrasion.

Another saddle maker friend of mine is very big on the Australian leather creams. I've found one that I really like called Oakwood. This is fantastic stuff and I highly recommend it. This is my second big tub of it and it's almost gone. I really like it. I don't think it conditions quite as deeply as Skidmore's but it does set up a protective finish afterwards that I think is better than the Skidmore's. In fact its so good I use it as the finish for larger items like rifle scabbards:

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It was used on both of these scabbards.

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I apply it by hand and then use a brush for tight spots or tooling:

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Third item I use is called Saddle Butter. I use this anywhere the leather is in direct contact with the horse:

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Anyhoo that Saddle Butter doesn't really apply to sheaths and holsters but works good on revitalizing old stuff too.

More a lil later. Gotta go feed those critters these things go on.
 
Thanks for the info, Dave. I heard about Skidmore's many years ago, just never got around to trying it. I made a note to get some when Redmeadow Knives brought it up, now I'm adding the Oakwood to the list. And Obenauf's. Always good to have options!
 
Thanks for the info, Dave. I heard about Skidmore's many years ago, just never got around to trying it. I made a note to get some when Redmeadow Knives brought it up, now I'm adding the Oakwood to the list. And Obenauf's. Always good to have options!
You bet!
 
Dave, If you would, please detail how you achieve that darkened background ground effect on your holster, in the photo with the toothbrush. I assume its not from the use of the same leather products used overall, but correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you for your advice.
 
Dave, If you would, please detail how you achieve that darkened background ground effect on your holster, in the photo with the toothbrush. I assume its not from the use of the same leather products used overall, but correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you for your advice.
Ya bet. In the photo with the toothbrush that is my saddle. The darkened back ground comes from the product being applied. It will eventually even out in color as it dries. The toothbrush is there to even out the application and get the excess product out of the tooling.

On the rifle scabbard the designs in this case a brand and initials are swivel knife cut, bevelled to the inside and then matted. The design is then carefully painted with black leather dye.

Tooled first:

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Dyed. The trick is to use a fine brush and move fast otherwise the dye can wick through your edges:

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Finished:

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