Confused by recent buy

D

dogguira

Joined
Aug 7, 2019
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I recently bought an old 501 it's my first 501. I love Bucks have used them for 30 years. This one though I can't get sharp. Am I doing something wrong or is the 501 model usually dull?

It's from the 70s looking at the markings. I have a 110 same time time period that's terrific.
 
Probably made by Camillus so it won’t compare directly to a 110. Camillus knives were always decent quality, and Usually get very sharp.

Look at the edge really close to see if it’s dull or rolling over.

Usually if I have trouble sharpening a new knife it’s because my angle is different than the angle someone else put on it. So I have to remove more metal than normal. Then once I catch up it gets sharp.
 
Camillus didnt build the 500s. Only the 300s.

Probably thick behind the edge, which is how Buck used to make 'em.

You'll need to invest some time in back beveling before you can put a nice working edge on it. Buck will clean it up and get you a good edge for just a couple bucks if you send it to them.

Or... I have no idea what I'm talking about, which happens from time to time.
 
dogg, welcome to the Buck Forum. Exactly ^. Camillus never made any of the 500 series knives.
I have sharpened many of those with the owner giving that same complaint. It is the thick metal behind the blade. I can sharpen that
for you or send it in to Buck. Option 3 is get a coarse SiC stone and reprofile it then sharpen it. If you've never done one I'd shy away
from it. The steel is 440C and that model came out in early 1975. It should have the old English script stamp and maroon micarta handles. Good luck. DM
 
Yes the old English script and micata handle. It opens faster than any in tje others I have tried in the 500 series. Really good tight lock also.

Thanks. I will try a coaser stone of that fails I will send it off to an expert.
 
If you have a coarse SiC or coarse India stone, that would be my first choice. You can purchase black, wet/ dry, cloth backed, sand paper of SiC of various grits. These run under a dollar a sheet and cut with better economy and you can use pressure. Just secure the sand paper to a
flat surface and I would tape the spine and grind away. Getting progressively finer up to about 800 grit. Once you've done this, then go back and sharpen it how ever you like. Just not on a Arkansas stones or a natural stone. Good luck, DM
 
Thanks. I ended up dragging a small coarse stone out of hiding I have. The blade is already getting better. Next time I head to town I will get a better one.
 
Just use the coarse stone for the initial sharpening to get your desired angle. One the secondary bevel is set, you should be fine with your finer setup.
 
Glad you got some good answers. Glad your are getting some better results sharpening it. Sorry about mentioning camillus.
 
Yes, get a diamond stone and you'll be in good shape. I bought a 440C 110 in the mid 70s. Back then Buck sold an Arkansas stone that was softer than the knife's steel. Between that and the thickness of the blade behind the edge I was extremely frustrated! Once I discovered diamond I finally got a good edge.
 
I use diamond stones exclusively on everything. It’s faster and I think I get a finer edge than most natural stones . I haven’t yet found a hard metal type that hasn’t yielded to a diamond sharpener. But one thing about diamond stones is don’t use much pressure as that can pop or shear the diamond off shortening the usefulness of the sharpener. A light pressure is plenty to remove metal and achieve a fine edge.
 
My experience with diamond stones has convinced me to not purchase another one. As their grit is friable and will fracture off during use. Thus, they offer lower economy, i.e. years of use. The 501 was Chuck Buck's favorite knife for many years. DM
 
I buy coarse diamond stones as they wear down I buy another coarse and use the first one as fine.

The crisp corners and flattness more than make up for their shorter life and higher cost. Your mileage may vary.
 
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I dont find diamond stones wear out or lose their coarseness or fineness.

pressure isnt needed with diamonds. thats the only way I've seen them come loose from their bond and wear out is too much pressure.

what I like about diamonds is the speed on reprofiling and no oil or water needed. much like ceramics. prefer those over stones myself. I find this faster easier and just more pleasant in general. I dont hate stones though and use them occasionally.
 
Eveled no worries. Since it was the first buck I ever had that didn't immediately show some sort of results, I wondered myself. I was kinda worried I somehow got either a lemon or a fake. All the rest I have handled over the years responded to initial tries at sharpening. It was acting like the pocket knives my dad favors since he always prefers prying to slicing.
 
I’ve seen the same thing. When sharpening I can see the two bevels from the side. So it seems it’s getting sharp. But without looking really close it’s hard to tell the two bevels aren’t meeting yet. Once they do you are all set. Future sharpenings will be easier.

Again I’m glad you got good results. It’s ready for some pocket time!
 
My episode occurred while re-profiling Buck's Empress Trio 9" carver. This was done on DMT's x-coarse, large 11.5" stone made for Norton's IM-313 tri-hone system. This stone is made for re-profiling. While working this model the stone was cutting fine and much swarf would pile up and clog the plate, that it required cleaning 8-10 times during this work. While cleaning it I noticed a lot of diamond material had sheered off and mixed in with this swarf. Upon finishing I noted that much of the diamond grit had been removed from the plate. Like 50% with one knife and this one plate cost 80$! Thus, I don't re-profile any more using diamond plates. I merely use them as a finishing plate. Normally the fine grit. Because they are friable and the grit is only 1/32" on the surface vs 1/2" on a SiC stone. They can be wore down quickly and from what I noticed it didn't cut any faster than 120 grit Norton stone. DM
 
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