I put together a GIB, and right now, I'm running an 8" and a 2" on the multi-platen setup. My worry is that the 2" (rubber) contact wheel is building up a lot of heat in the bearing. How much is too much? I've got it tightened just enough where it will stand straight under the belt tension, but it's not quite freewheeling. I've used my old Pro-Cut (2-wheel setup) for over 15 years, so I was always running a 3/4" shaft and a fixed 8" wheel. This is all new to me.
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Contact Wheel heat build-up
- Thread starter low wall
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Sounds like your problem is with the bearing in the wheel. I would say it's time to get a replacement. They do wear out. Frank
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- Mar 5, 2012
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Do you have a spacer between the bearings inside the wheel? That's how you tighten it to the proper torque without side loading the bearing. This may be the issue?
If it is the economy wheel rather than the one from Beaumont, there is no spacer between the bearings. Add a spacer and then tighten it just enough, like you have done.
I have the same setup and both wheels get hot, but the mass from the 8" wheel absorbs the heat better than the 2" wheel.
The bearings do generate a bit of heat at first but will break in after a while. At first mine was too hot to touch after use but now that they have been broken in, they don't get nearly as hot.
I have the same setup and both wheels get hot, but the mass from the 8" wheel absorbs the heat better than the 2" wheel.
The bearings do generate a bit of heat at first but will break in after a while. At first mine was too hot to touch after use but now that they have been broken in, they don't get nearly as hot.
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- Oct 17, 2010
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Those contact wheels don't have spacers, I had the same problem, I couldn't tighten up the bolt running through my platen enough to keep it from being loose, without putting too much pressure on the bearings, which is caused aa lot of friction and heat.
My solution, since the gib already had 1/2" holes in the platen assembly, and I couldnt tap it, was instead to countersink the opposite side, put a 1/2 flat socket head bolt through, tighten a nut down on the otherside to clamp it into the recess, and weld it in. Obviously I used steel bolts, not galvanized or zinc coated. This gave me a solid arm to mount the wheel on and I could tighten it "just right" with the machine bushings. Worked great, been using the wheel for a couple of years now like that, no problem and the bearings are still going strong.
My solution, since the gib already had 1/2" holes in the platen assembly, and I couldnt tap it, was instead to countersink the opposite side, put a 1/2 flat socket head bolt through, tighten a nut down on the otherside to clamp it into the recess, and weld it in. Obviously I used steel bolts, not galvanized or zinc coated. This gave me a solid arm to mount the wheel on and I could tighten it "just right" with the machine bushings. Worked great, been using the wheel for a couple of years now like that, no problem and the bearings are still going strong.
Appreciate the feedback.
1) Brand new bearing from USA Knifemakers
2) I'd suggest that not only does the larger wheel have more mass, but with 25" circumference vs 6.28", it's turning a lot slower.
3) If it doesn't "break in" and run any cooler, I'm inclined to take the platen to a machine shop and have them weld two 6.5" x 1/2" steel rods, 1 in each hole. Then I'll tap the last inch or so of each rod, and I can tighten the nut just enough to hold the bearing in place. I'll also have a reversible platen attachment (Don't know why I need it, but as long as they are welding it, I bet an extra 6" of steel rod won't cost anything, and if the rod wallows out, I can just turn the platen attachment over and get a new piece of angle iron for my platen backer.)
Anything wrong with that?
1) Brand new bearing from USA Knifemakers
2) I'd suggest that not only does the larger wheel have more mass, but with 25" circumference vs 6.28", it's turning a lot slower.
3) If it doesn't "break in" and run any cooler, I'm inclined to take the platen to a machine shop and have them weld two 6.5" x 1/2" steel rods, 1 in each hole. Then I'll tap the last inch or so of each rod, and I can tighten the nut just enough to hold the bearing in place. I'll also have a reversible platen attachment (Don't know why I need it, but as long as they are welding it, I bet an extra 6" of steel rod won't cost anything, and if the rod wallows out, I can just turn the platen attachment over and get a new piece of angle iron for my platen backer.)
Anything wrong with that?
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- Oct 17, 2010
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The bearings aren't the problem with the economy wheels from usa knifemaker, mine ran hot brand new also, it's the lack of spacer inside to keep from compressing the internal sleeve of the bearing inward and creating friction forces on the whole bearing. New higher end bearings won't help unless you put an internal spacer in, since these types of bearings aren't designed to handle lateral pressure.
The solution I outlined should fix the problem. If you don't have a welder to do it yourself, ship the plate to me, in a flat rate envelope and $10 for return postage and I'll do it for you. Or, get someone locally to do it as you mentioned.
I can't visualize what you're saying regarding a "reversible platen attachment", or what using rod has to do with a platen?
The solution I outlined should fix the problem. If you don't have a welder to do it yourself, ship the plate to me, in a flat rate envelope and $10 for return postage and I'll do it for you. Or, get someone locally to do it as you mentioned.
I can't visualize what you're saying regarding a "reversible platen attachment", or what using rod has to do with a platen?
I'm talking about replacing the 1/2" bolt with a 1/2" rod, welded in, then tapped. With a welded rod, you don't have to tighten the nut down and compress the bearing. BTW, I figured out that the welding bead will leave enough of a "shoulder" that it will interfere with the spacers. I'd just have to weld it on the opposite side of the multiplaten plate from the wheel. Your solution is just as good. I
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- Oct 17, 2010
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Aye, that's why I used a countersunk flat head bolt, it allows you to weld the outside, and its easy to square and clamp just by torquing down a nut on the inside. Bear in mind that unless it's tightly clamped the weld bead will pull the rod out of square as it cools.
There are harder ways to do it, but my way is easy, and requires no special tools beyond the welder and the ability to countersink correctly.
There are harder ways to do it, but my way is easy, and requires no special tools beyond the welder and the ability to countersink correctly.