Contact wheel or flat platen

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Oct 24, 2007
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I received a set of NWG plans from Tracy.This guy is great,and I will be buying what I need from him,however,given that money is in short supply,for me anyway,and at the moment can I only get what is necessary.What should I buy for all around grinding,such as,a flat platen,or a contact wheel(If a contact wheel,what size).The only thing I have used in the 2 years that I have made knives is a Sears 4x36,very slow,and I am working on my third sander.They don't last very long.
Also,and I know this may be an elementary question,but,for anyone that has built a NWG what size should the plywood base be?

Thanks for any help,God bless,Keith
 
Have to have a contact wheel for profiling a blade, hollow ground etc. A flat platen is also a must.
 
It's my belief that the two are equally important in knifemaking. I use both platen and contact wheel on every knife I make, flat or hollow ground. If you could truly have only one, I would have to say a platen.

I would recommend an 8" wheel.
 
I am using an 8" contact wheel (poly) and then a flat platen with a 2" and a 3" poly contact wheel for the wheels on it.

you will probably want both.
 
Thanks for all the replies.I think I am going to go with the contact wheel,then when money will allow I'll get the platen.
Thanks madness,for that info,I am going to check that out.

God bless,Keith
 
You can have both on the same setup. Check out JTknives website for inspiration. You can get semi detailed specs from Tracy's NWG pic site with a few pictures. I built it and it works very well.

I have redesigned it with better proportions. now it can take a 8" platen and you don't have to adjust the tooling arm very much for each position. it is hands down a better design. I am programing a cnc mill to cut it out right now. but you could do it by hand. i will post a cad drawing that has all the measurements you need. the one i made years ago works great but i needed to balance it a bit better and incorporate a 8" platen instead of a 4"
 
Keith - you will never be able to hit flats and keep them even with just a wheel. You can profile and clean up by hand on a platen, you can grind on one, it's just barely more versatile in my opinion. I would not forgo a platen to get a contact wheel - that is coming from someone who hollow grinds 90% of his knives.
 
I have redesigned it with better proportions. now it can take a 8" platen and you don't have to adjust the tooling arm very much for each position. it is hands down a better design. I am programing a cnc mill to cut it out right now. but you could do it by hand. i will post a cad drawing that has all the measurements you need. the one i made years ago works great but i needed to balance it a bit better and incorporate a 8" platen instead of a 4"


I would really like to see that! I built the first arm as per specs and it was good then I change it a little so it worked out to have a 5.5" platen. The biggest problem I have with it is when I want to hollow grind I have to rotate the 2" wheel back and it hits the upright support before the 8" wheel is as high as I would like it. But I still like the all in one design.
 
I would really like to see that! I built the first arm as per specs and it was good then I change it a little so it worked out to have a 5.5" platen. The biggest problem I have with it is when I want to hollow grind I have to rotate the 2" wheel back and it hits the upright support before the 8" wheel is as high as I would like it. But I still like the all in one design.

Do you have a NWG? i had that problem as well. but if the drive, tracking and contact wheels are spaced enough from the grinder then you dont have a problem. the tenson arm upright tubes being so big is what causes the problem. thy are what i can remember 1.5" or somthing like that. so the grinder head needs to stick out quite aways from the tooling arm using a bunch of washers. I will start a new post with my new revision of the rotating head.
 
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