Conundrum: 1095 vs. SS for work EDC

[markv]

,1095
knives were and still are made from 1095, just think,about it.

buzz

 

[supratentorial]

Buck 301 stockman. NO ONE does a better heat treat of the 420HC than Buck.
(or, you could just use your Rough Riders and China Bucks, they are quality at a reasonable price)

This plus 10!

I also like the American made Buck 301 but I wasn't sure if it was an option or not. He said he already had a foreign made Buck and he wanted something close to GEC quality. The Buck 301 doesn't have the old fashioned build of a GEC knife, but it is a hard worker.

 

[Stich2442]

I worked inside and outside exposed to the elements and the ocean year round, and have carried carbon steel knives since I was 6 years old and I have never experienced the problems others have had with carbon steel rusting and don't do much in way of keeping oiled, guess I'm just lucky. I carried two knives on me at work, a Boker 7474 carbon steel stockman and a Opinel #9 carbon, in the summer I would work in hot humid attics where temps could reach upwards of 120°, I would soak through my jeans, it was like I jumped into a lake with them on, I could also be outside for 10 hours in the rain or snow, I never had either knife ever rust me. The only thing I would do is try to wipe off any excess water if possible, but most of the time too busy to care, I switched for a short time to a SS blade but I found it dulled quickly and at work I didn't want to take the time to have to work at getting a knife sharp, my Opinel was the workhorse, I would sharpen it on anything the was around a file, brick, cinder block, foundation whatever I could find, I started to carry a old broken piece of a Arkansas stone in my pocket, I needed a knife that was sharp enough to make clean neat cuts and the Opinel #9 was perfect. The Boker was for when I needed smaller detail cuts, mostly the sheepsfoot, but it was also my backup, most guys only carried folding razor utility knives that lack length to cut some of materials we worked with so I always got "hey Pete can I borrow your knife" so the Opinel #9 would get lent out and the Boker would be what I used, I hated having to stop my work because the other guys were unprepared. Both of my carbon knives had naturally earned patina, only thing I would do is, when I got home was to clean them with soap and water dry as best I could, then put a little bit of rubbing alcohol in the pivot joints, then after the alcohol dried I put some mineral oil in pivots. At the time I didn't have a lot of knives or money so the Boker was my edc for everything so I liked to keep it clean, but at work I would really recommend a Opinel #9 I think you'll be impressed at how much abuse they can take and for doing what a knife is supposed to do, cut, it cannot be beat in my opinion, plus no back spring to deal with.

Pete

 

[supratentorial]

The best way to keep a knife from rusting is to use it.

 

[navihawk]

Any carbon steel knife I have carried always gets rust spots on the inside of the springs. The main blade of my 81 gets the most use and had a patina on it. I started getting rust spots ont the secondary blades so I patina'd it in vinegar. that stopped it from rusting further. I used gun blue on my 56 jack which works and looks better. As for the rust spots on the inside of the springs." Out of sight, out of mind." If you like the 81, buy one and use gun blue, then keep the blades waxed.

 

[calamander]

I really do appreciate all the comments/discussion! I am checking stats on Case in SS, CSC stockman, and bladeforum knife. I may also just bite the bullet and use one of my "good" knives- use it and abuse it and not worry about it!

I think the Case sowbelly is a good choice. The CSC stockman w/ 440C steel is also a good choice--it's much more expensive though. If the knife doesn't need to be pretty, I have a heavily used CSC stockman that has a lot of life left in it. I could send it to you.

Thank you very much Supratentorial, that gesture is truly golden. Although looks do not matter, I couldn't accept such a gift- I feel as though I need to be here helping in answering questions instead of asking before I can accept such a wonderful offer! Thanks again!



My knives do get used hard daily, maybe I will just run a pipe cleaner with oil on the backsprings once or twice a week and let whatever happens, happens. Or just maybe the knife fairy will visit soon!

Thanks again guys!
Cal

 

[screened porch]

I think the insides of backsprings are not always polished as highly as the outsides, and stuff sticks to them, so discoloration isn't necessarily rust. Even if they are rusting, an occasional drop of oil will probably make them last longer than you.
I like stainless myself, but if the inside of the backsprings is your only concern, maybe you should continue the experiment.

 

[Woodrow F Call]

Keep the knife away from sweat. A sheath is good for this..... I usually wear overalls and the pockets on the chest help prevent sweat getting in there, but not always. I wipe them dry frequently and/or go stainless on days where I'll be working hard.

You might also keep them wrapped in something that keeps the sweat away from the blades.

 

[supratentorial]

No problem, Cal. I'm sure you have lots to contribute.

A couple things that might be helpful...

The Case springs are stainless even on the knives with CV blades. The sowbelly was designed by Tony Bose and it's one of my favorite patterns but Case does make them with the sheepfoot sitting high. With the big belly on the handle, it's extremely comfortable to use the sheepfoot blade. But I find it more comfortable to use the other blades after grinding down the kick on the sheepfoot blade so that it sits lower. If you aren't picky about handle material, it's possible to buy one of these knives for around $35 shipped.

Both the Case sowbelly and CSC stockman are essentially bomb proof knives. They can take a lot of use and abuse. The CSC has somewhat lower sitting blades but I still lower the sheepfoot on it. Also their 440C will take a razor edge and hold it for a longer time than Tru Sharp. The CSC stockman will cost double or triple the cost of the Case sowbelly but it might be worth it for the steel--they do a great job with 440C.

 

[markv]

The best way to keep a knife from rusting is to use it.

i agree.

buzz

 

[willc]

In this hot weather I am mostly outdoors and end up sweating up my work pants. Most days I carry 2 knives, a newer Vic Soldier and a 2 bladed 15 Sheepsfoot.
The 15 does end up with pepper marks when it is real hot but it cleans up easy with some oil, a bit of steel wool, and some pipe cleaners.
As with all tools some maintenance is required.

 

[Dean51]

So people that work outside in humid condtions, what is your protocol for keeping rust at bay on 1095? Wash and oil daily? Everyday I am soaked with perspiration from my shoulders to my knees- ringing wet. I tried a belt sheath but that also ends up soaked in sweat. I obviously would love to get a GEC in 440C, but the pickings are slim.

Based on what you said the last thing I would want to doat the end of the day, is try and keep 1095 clean & rust free.
A Buck 301 is a good work horse, used one for years. For a step up you could go Canal Street, better steel and a first class knife.

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[texasshipagent]

Sodbuster

 

[D.B Cooper]

I've been carrying carbon steel knives as my EDC for a while now, and as long as you wipe them down daily and lube them a bit(I use Chapstick) they seem to not rust too bad. Maybe a spot here or there. I have been carrying a Case Seahorse whittler in SS lately, and I'm enjoying the no maintenance aspect of it. But I like patina.

 

[Shotgun]

Schatt and Morgan make a few in stainless and the ones I have are well made. Although IIRC, Queen has made some for S & M, as well under their own branding.

I really like the S & M Gunstock model in ATS34. Great knife and while priced a bit higher due to the steel, it's well within reach I think.

And of course, one of my favorites, really bullet proof, doesn't rust. Needs minimal care. The blade will need a touch up a bit more often, but a few strokes gets it back to razor sharp. The Vic 93mm Alox Electrician.

I second the alox electrician. Great size and has all the tools I need for work. I would advise against the 66 GEC. I have the Bullwinkle one and it's too small and too smooth to use for anything other than light edc IMO. I have medium/large hands and it's just too small to get a good grip on.

 

[coffeecup]

Most nights, my knife gets cleaned/lubed/touched up or sharpened; the usual last step is to wipe the blades with a piece of toweling that has a bit of carnauba car wax on it. That's enough to keep the corrosion from getting too bad, but the blades are still blackened.

Oh yeah, current EDC is a 50-or-so year old Case trapper with CV blades. There's often a sodbuster thrown in too, most often a Case CV. (Kinda funny that it works out that way currently, because I'm definitely not a Case-o-phile, but these are good knives.)

 

[Will Power]

Since you say you want a variety of edges, the Stockman is the pattern to go for. I feel you should try a Queen in Zebrawood, this is tough stuff, D2 patinas only from very acidic fruit cutting in my experience and Queen uses stainless backsprings so that ought to take care of corrosion worries. There are jigged bone versions too and these can be particularly well-finished, they are really good value compared to GEC variants.

At a pinch you might consider the Queen 48 Whittler pattern, very handy but might be a bit small for your taste.

Let us know what you end up with and how it works out.

Thanks, Will

 

[Easyrider]

Have you considered having a custom knife commissioned? You could then get the blade and hand configuration you want in a stainless steel?