Converting a Mora to full tang and custom handles--promised in the PIF thread

Great handiwork, but...... why? How many Moras have failed on the tang for you. I'm no welding genius, but wouldn't the blade to tang transition still be weakest point? Otherwise, I've got 3 different companions and the entire handle would have to shatter as well as the tang to break to have a tang failure, unless it snaps off at the handle/blade connection, which brings me back to my question about the strength about that same point being any stronger.

Never broke a Mora myself.
 
jimh0220 said:
Great handiwork, but...... why? How many Moras have failed on the tang for you. I'm no welding genius, but wouldn't the blade to tang transition still be weakest point? Otherwise, I've got 3 different companions and the entire handle would have to shatter as well as the tang to break to have a tang failure, unless it snaps off at the handle/blade connection, which brings me back to my question about the strength about that same point being any stronger.

Never broke a Mora myself.
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Because I can!

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.
---Robert Louis Stevenson

The weld should be strong enough--the steel is melted together and the tang will be held by the scales, anyway. It would be the weakest place, but you'd have to do something trememdous to break it.
 
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As far as those fusion welds are concerned, you'll have better and stronger results if you use filler rod next time. The benefit of using filler rod is that it takes less heat to perform the weld and the rod actually cools the puddle as you weld it. If you don't have the means to purchase filler rod, a steel coat hanger will work if it's not coated with paint or plastic. I'd recommend doing some practice butt joints on scrap until you find a technique and torch setting that allows you to run a small, tight bead with good penetration. There are videos on youtube of oxyfuel welding demonstrations and tips that will help you quite a bit.
If you'd like to get serious bout welding, a small TIG setup would be ideal for this kind of work.
;)
 
I was thinking that not using a rod was actually pretty smart as it should've kept slag out. Though I was shocked to see that he was finished with it just tacked in two places.
 
I actually did use a steel welding rod. The 3 places the tang is attached should be plenty. If I did the entire length of the tang, the HT would be even worse off, right?
 
Just because you believe you "can" do something, doesn't mean you "should" do it. I must say, for the amount of effort you've got into this project, you could have ground two full-tang blades from scratch by now and been a lot better off.

If you insist on pursuing this sort of thing, it may be helpful to know that when professional bladesmiths want to extend or build up a tang, they generally employ silver brazing techniques instead of welding, to avoid heat issues.
 
james terrio said:
Just because you believe you "can" do something, doesn't mean you "should" do it. I must say, for the amount of effort you've got into this project, you could have ground two full-tang blades from scratch by now and been a lot better off.

If you insist on pursuing this sort of thing, it may be helpful to know that when professional bladesmiths want to extend or build up a tang, they generally employ silver brazing techniques instead of welding, to avoid heat issues.
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Cool to know James!
 
james terrio said:
Just because you believe you "can" do something, doesn't mean you "should" do it. I must say, for the amount of effort you've got into this project, you could have ground two full-tang blades from scratch by now and been a lot better off.
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I have ground MANY full tang knives from 01 steel. But I wanted to try something new.

If you insist on pursuing this sort of thing, it may be helpful to know that when professional bladesmiths want to extend or build up a tang, they generally employ silver brazing techniques instead of welding, to avoid heat issues.
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I might try something similar if I ever do this again.
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
I actually did use a steel welding rod. The 3 places the tang is attached should be plenty. If I did the entire length of the tang, the HT would be even worse off, right?
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I don't think those three places, filler rod or no, are at all sufficient to hold the tang for any moderate to heavy use. Just judging by the pictures, it looks like your top tack is likely to break first and the bottom two will crack eventually. In short, the knife was stronger before you cut the handle off.
 
That's why I'm not planning on using it very hard. I'm saving for an ESEE 6 for hard use. This is more just for fun to see if it can be done (which I think at this point I am comfortable to say it can be done, even if it might not be perfect).
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
That's why I'm not planning on using it very hard. I'm saving for an ESEE 6 for hard use. This is more just for fun to see if it can be done (which I think at this point I am comfortable to say it can be done, even if it might not be perfect).
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I guess it depends on what you consider "done". While you have succeeded in attaching the tang to a piece of steel, you haven't improved on the original setup. Please don't take this as discouragement, with my love of Moras, I actually like the idea of hot-rodding one of my own HC models. However, what you have could be improved greatly by simply finishing the welds to a higher quality, grinding them flush, and then giving it a proper HT after normalizing (ask a pro about that part, my expertise extends only into metal fabrication topics). Questionable welds notwithstanding, you've created a large and irregular heat-affected zone which is no bueno. Why not see it through and have a nice finished product?
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
That's why I'm not planning on using it very hard. I'm saving for an ESEE 6 for hard use. This is more just for fun to see if it can be done (which I think at this point I am comfortable to say it can be done, even if it might not be perfect).
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Becker

And trust me bro , no one is here to discourage you; especially at your age.

Its just that it looks… less than finished
 
At the point that you show, your blade is fine. Perhaps a point or two softer where the tang meets the blade. The weld is probably weaker (tensile strength) than the original tang but it would also bend further without breaking (depending on filler rod and whether you let it air cool). As far as the blade goes any attempt to re quench and temper, will probably continue to loose ground compared to the original blade.
 
I've been busy lately, so haven't been able to make much progress. However, here it is with the welds smoothed and gaps filled in with JB weld:



It's hard to tell in the picture, but everything is flush and smooth.
 
Still looks like a stick tang at the blade transition. So now it has a slab of steel on both ends of the stick tang, on the wood handle can't possibly add more strength. so you made a weaker, light use only knife. I get the rehandling. I've done a Mora rehandle. But with the same tang, and nicer looking materials. Same strength, prettier. No slab of wasted steel.

You did more with welding than I can do, which is zero, but again, if you're trying to improve the knife, why did you do it how you did?
 
Like I said, this is just a "trial." I will probably do this again later, building off of what went well/wrong this time. I'm just curious--what wood did you use for your Mora rehandle?
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
Like I said, this is just a "trial." I will probably do this again later, building off of what went well/wrong this time. I'm just curious--what wood did you use for your Mora rehandle?
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Well, there you go. If you did this to learn and for the experience, then it was well worth it. It is quite easy for those that never try anything knew to NOT understand why anyone would.

I have been doing professional woodwork and fine finishing for almost 40 years. I can tell you the key to understanding materials and processes is to experiment and do things HANDS ON. NOTHING beats hands on experience. And after all, what an inexpensive piece of education you got from this if all you did was goof up a $12 knife! (Which by the way, may not be goofed up!)

The amount of material I have cut, fitted and practiced on to learn my craft would fill someone's yard. And you could probably fill a small swimming pool with all the lacquers and high build finishes I have shot onto practice panels just to learn the technique of movement.

Keep on welding, grinding, cutting and learning and don't let the couch potatoes and side line sitters discourage you. You found a way to get started and that is the hard part about things sometimes. As you learn from each piece you will build invaluable skills. You will need them if you post your work here... some of the makers here have set the bar pretty really high. Good luck, and I am waiting for the next "experiment"!

Robert
 
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