Convex edge, how do you achieve yours?

D

Devil doc

Joined
Apr 11, 2010
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16
I'm looking into convex edge making for a particular blade, I usually use a lansky vice/stone guide for my V grinds with good results.

I would like to hear some from some of the more experienced or learned members how to make a the most consistant convex edge, methods please.

I preordered a swamp rat waki and I think the convex edge profile is functionally more suited for the end users tasks. Thanks for your input and sorry if this has been covered before I couldn't locate it in a search. Here is an example below.


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Mousepad and sandpaper. Having some problems with the tip though... not gettin' it pointy enough.
 
For a big blade like that I would suggest a belt sander. It will be easiest. Currently for my pocket knives and fixed blades with edge lengths of 5 inch or less I use the sandpaper and mouse pad method.
 
I see sand paper, what grit or grits. I assume most use a leather strop afterwards where would I get a decent one and what to apply to it? Belt sanders another interesting idea again which one, how do you find your angle, are you attaching a level to the sander and the blade is likely clamped in a vice with some type of vice jaws to protect the blade from movement and marring. Thanks for the quick turn out of replies.
 
On something of that length go with a belt sander.
It would be weird to sharpen something that long with minuscule pieces of hand sandpaper.
 
Your best bet would be to send it out to have a convex edge applied. A beltsander is about the only practical method for a blade of that size but without experience it would be a disaster.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Your best bet would be to send it out to have a convex edge applied. A beltsander is about the only practical method for a blade of that size but without experience it would be a disaster.
Click to expand...

I hate having to part with anything and I'd bet most people who sharpen their own stuff has at least a little bit of that in them, it's something I'd like to learn but I'm patient and smart enough to practice on some QVC specials, lawn mower blades, and some other less fortunate cutlery. I make no mistake that using a machine to acheive such a desired result is an art form in itself, Seeing I never really had much of a desire for music if you catch my meaning. Reading from those in the know is the best setting for a solid foundation. With that stated further input, experiences, do and do nots are more than welcome. Thank you all for your input thus far, I am taking your leads and doing research on my own with your suggestions. Any input on videos or reading material? I have viewed a few on YouTube, pretty motivating.
 
Hey, I sccessfully convexed the edge on my Swamp Rat Waki. :)

I can tell you that a belt sander would have made it a LOT easier, this waki is differentially heat treated and the edge is HARD! ...but I still managed it with just sandpaper on leather backing, and a strop.

I did start by taking a 12" mill bastard file, and "tried" to use it to knock off the shoulder and start the reprofile ....but the waki's edge is so hard that my file would barely scratch it! -So I switched to 120 grit paper, and went through several sheets of it before I had the basic reprofile shape in place. Then it was just a matter of moving up through the grits, 120-2000, then finished with black then green compound on a leather strop.
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...Took a while, and I won't say it was easy, but it realy shaves like a razor now! :D ...much better than the factory ground edge. :thumbup: Good luck with your Waki! I'm sure you'll like it, it's BAD A$$!
 
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet! you did that by hand too, hardcore. Yeah i put in my preorder yesterday and I'm nervously awaiting a confirmation reply.
 
Will this be your FIRST attempt at turning a V edge into convex??

If so, I would strongly suggest practicing on some smaller and cheaper blades to start out with. There is definitely a learning curve that needs to be addressed before tackling a blade like the Waki's!

-But as you can see, it at least CAN be done, even with minimal equipment. :thumbup:

Oh, by the way, what color combo did you order for your Waki? ...and have you thought about a sheath yet???
 
Black blade and a G10 grip black and red or black and gray, I said I didn't care to that extent and left it up to them. Black you can always touch up with flat black spray paint and if you ever bead blast it a darker gray finish remains.
 
Black and red, that will look great! Black and gray would look pretty stealthy...

I figure that if they get used much the coating on these blades will start to look like crap after a while, and once that happens I'm thinking it'll be time for a full satin finished blade! :D
 
Yeah I have two schools of thought on the finish and the wearing of it, it might be cool to see it used because it is a tool at the end of the day, on the other hand a light bead blasting would show the satin finish while leaving the metal with non visible protective coating in the pores of the blade. Maybe a high luster polish to match my gold teeth, pimp cane and my 20 inch spoked rims on my caddie.....decisions. All joking aside, functional non-reflective and absences of a tetanus booster (the good old rusted nail fable) would work. Have you chopped up anything with it yet?
 
Hey look, bladeforums is back up and running! :thumbup:

...Haven't had a chance to chop more than a few branches with mine yet, but it did that pretty good. I plan on taking it camping with me this year, should get a chance to abuse it some then. :D
 
You want to have a minimum of 20 hours of experience with convex sharpening before attempting that. 30 would be my goal.
 
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