Convex edge knives

Uncle Timbo

Uncle Timbo

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Nov 23, 2005
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From what I understand, convex edged knives are the way to go for wilderness/bushcraft. I'd like to see some of your "convex sharpening kits that you take into the "wild blue yonder" From strops to mousepads to sandpaper, how do you maintain your edge when out for awhile.
What would you do if your sandpaper got wet?
Inquiring minds want to know.
 
Most sandpaper would not be affected by water, in fact water may help to keep it from loading up, by rinsing it off periodically. If your going to use an abrasive paper I would suggest you buy a ceramic belt like we knifemakers use. You could cut it up into small pieces and have plenty of abrasive on hand to handle whatever you need.
You could have various grits for heavier or lighter work too.
 
It really depends...all I've needed to do was strop with a loaded leather belt for extended use (several weeks); I took a few convex edged knives to Iraq and as long as I didn't put too bad a ding in the edge simple stropping was very effective. You can also sharpen a convex edge on a flat stone if you take your time and roll into it...it won't be pretty, but it will work. As Trace said, the wet-or-dry sandpaper won't be affected if it gets wet...just dry it out or use it wet. I want to put a small Altoids-size tin kit together with several pre-cut sandpaper (400-2000 grit), a section of mouse pad and epoxy a piece of leather on the outside or under the lid; whenever I get the time, that will be my next project.

ROCK6
 
Like others, I usually take a strip of leather with me and a piece of high grit sandpaper. I'll sometimes bring a stone as I maintain certain convex edges using a stone instead.
 
I don;t take these kits into the wild, but this is what I use.

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Unless I'm going to be in the woods a long time, I don't even bother with a sharpening device. I can strop on my pants leg or belt if I need to, and if I get a ding in the edge, a reasonably smooth rock will work to hone it out.

One of the great things about a convex edge is that a sharp convex edge will stay at least working sharp longer than a flat edge.

And it can be stropped or honed on just about anything that would make it dull.
 
OK , my set up for in field use is going to look downright primitive next to some ...

I have a small fine stone that fits into my pocket easy , and to strop , I use the inside of my belt , the one that holds my pants up , unless I remembered to pack my strop , which isnt often ...

works for me anyway .
 
Hillbilly I'll be away for a bit but if you want when I get back in about 2 weeks I'll mail you my homemade convex field sharpening kit...They take me about 10 minutes to make so it's no problem if your interested PM me your addy.
 
i'm on a dialup connection here (talk about primitive!) so i don't know if this will work, but i'll try...

riley's sharpener that i commonly use;
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but more commonly i use this one in my shop;
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the other option is to lay a bevel on it with a stone just like a flat ground knife, it will still cut great. most commonly i strop on a piece of belt loaded with gray tripoli from the hardware store, sometimes i use a piece of .5 micron film over a mousepad backing (as in riley's sharpener). if the edge gets duller, i take it to some 1200 grit paper before stropping. for maintaining, i rarely go below 1200.
 
I just bring pieces of 1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and use any available, yielding surface (edge of sleeping pad, motorcycle seat, etc.). My belt will do for light stropping, or even a piece of cardboard.
 
Where the heck do you guys get the high grit count sandpaper? I've tried looking everyplace including commerical auto paint shops...nobody seems to have it in individual sheets...
 
Quirt said:
Where the heck do you guys get the high grit count sandpaper? I've tried looking everyplace including commerical auto paint shops...nobody seems to have it in individual sheets...
Click to expand...

I got it at the local Autozone in the paint/bodywork section.
 
I LOVE THAT ALTOIDS BOX SHARPENER! I MUST make one. If you get a chance,please pm me the contents that you use. I use sandpaper for all my convex edges, so I have that on hand. I also have an altoids tin.

Man, I love that!

brett
siguy said:
i'm on a dialup connection here (talk about primitive!) so i don't know if this will work, but i'll try...

riley's sharpener that i commonly use;
DSCN6551.jpg


DSCN6552.jpg


DSCN6553.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I also really like that little kit. Put something like a Visine bottle full of mineral oil in it for protecting carbon steel knives, and it would be a real winner. :thumbup:
 
ROCK6 said:
It really depends...all I've needed to do was strop with a loaded leather belt for extended use (several weeks); I took a few convex edged knives to Iraq and as long as I didn't put too bad a ding in the edge simple stropping was very effective. You can also sharpen a convex edge on a flat stone if you take your time and roll into it...it won't be pretty, but it will work. As Trace said, the wet-or-dry sandpaper won't be affected if it gets wet...just dry it out or use it wet. I want to put a small Altoids-size tin kit together with several pre-cut sandpaper (400-2000 grit), a section of mouse pad and epoxy a piece of leather on the outside or under the lid; whenever I get the time, that will be my next project.

ROCK6
Click to expand...

Try gluing a piece of shop roll 320 grit to the other side of the belt. Or better yet, order a 1x30 or 1x42 320 grit belt (or 400, 600, but 320 is good) and use it like a strop. Just hold it tight.
 
I'll third siguy's tin kit. I really like the way the closed lid holds the ends of the paper, very clever. :thumbup:
 
Excellent siguy! I'll make a couple of those for the backpacking and deployment bags. What type of epoxy did you use for the leather and mouse pad?

ROCK6
 
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