Convex edge questions

[mrostov]

Question - Convex Edge on a Khukuri

1) Why? Does is really stay sharp that much longer?

2) How do you re-sharpen it in the field?

 

[Daniel Koster]

1) Why? Does is really stay sharp that much longer?

Yes!

2) How do you re-sharpen it in the field?

Doesn't need field resharpening. If you dent the edge, you should use a burnisher to restore it - don't use a stone on it.


The laws of physics are in play here. Most knifemakers agree that the convex edge is the strongest and sturdiest edge.

So why doesn't everybody put one on their knives?

Because the normal guy out there has no clue how to maintain a knife, let alone, strop and sharpen a convex edge.

Frankly, I think it's easier to sharpen than a flat ground edge.

Mousepad technique, or a piece of leather glued to a wood block with sandpaper on it works just fine for me. Then use the leather to strop it afterwards.

In fact, I think you could do that "in the field" if you really needed to - it's that simple.

Am I going to have to do another test with videos and pics??!?

You guys are going to run me ragged...



Dan

 

[firkin]

It's a dayum long skinny axe with a short handle.

Should be sharpened like one.

 

[BruiseLeee]

Originally posted by pendentive
Because the normal guy out there has no clue how to maintain a knife, let alone, strop and sharpen a convex edge.

This may be the only time I've ever been referred to as normal.

 

[Daniel Koster]

Originally posted by BruiseLeee
This may be the only time I've ever been referred to as normal.

And that's all about to change...

 

[Roadrunner]

Don't worry bruise, you'll always be a weirdo to me!

 

[Cliff Stamp]

You can sharpen them in the field with a normal stone. I use two small 1x4" waterstones, 1000 and 4000 grit. You hold the blade steady and work the hones, going from the shoulder to edge.

After forming the bevel with the 1000 stone, you make a few cuts into the edge with the 4000 grit bevel to remove the burr and then redo the bevel as before.

I would agree with Pen though, field sharpening is rarely necessary unless you decide on an extended vacation in the woods.

-Cliff

 

[Bill Martino]

Thanks for expert help.

 

[ddean]

Here's a recent thread with a link to
an article on convex edge bevels
(why, what; in detail)
on historic japanese swords.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=264137

 

[mrostov]

Any practical advice on putting one on a 16.5" HI WWII Khukuri?

 

[Roadrunner]

Check out my review of the WWII, linked in another thread here. I did exactly that to a WWII blem I got recently, it was a lot of work but well worth the effort. I used a ProCombo hone with a mousepad backing from handamerican, but you can get the same results using just a mousepad and sandpaper. It's very easy, just experiment a little and you'll get the hang of it very quickly. The main thing is to raise a burr on both bevels. That's how you know the bevels are meeting and forming a cutting edge. Once you have a burr, all you have to do is polish it using progressively finer sandpaper, then you can finish it off with a strop to take away the last vestiges of a burr. One other note, you may want to tape the blade to avoid scratches. I didn't tape mine, but it's a user so a few "beauty marks" don't bother me.