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I have zero problems sharpening my convexed bevel knives whatsoever in the field. I actually find it to be quite easy. They sure don't look beautiful, but they work like a hot damn.

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removing material from the transitional edge which separates the hollow grind from the flat edge grind results in a convex bevel(?right word?) and a sharper knife. Losing that material diminishes strength. An appropriately applied grind will dictate the functionality of the knife for its given purpose, use.
I prefer to convex all of my knives, as I find that most are designed strong enough, some much too strong, for their given task. Doing this gives me a finer edge. To me, a machine grind is a blank canvas, awaiting the perfect sharpening so that it will perform at its most efficientest. Unless you either have, or are a machine, your using knives will always end up convexed to some extent.
The most important thing is for the bladesmith to take this into account whilst applying the finishing touches to the bevels which terminate into an edge, given their customer's individualized needs, and/or the purpose of the knife.
In the South, something called whittling is a favorite pastime in small towns. The best grind for this is either a full hollow, with a very shallow "V" edge, or a true Flat Grind where the flats extend all the way to the edge. Similar to a Japanese Swords edge. This is sometimes called a Zero grind. Many old timers will lay a blade flat on a stone to sharpen it. These knives are like razors. If you know anything about whittling, or carving, you know that you can't run a curl with a convex edge. it will skip out of the cut, unless you use a very steep angle in the cut. Then it will simply dig in. Ruining the cut.
Whereas a convex edged machete will tend to jump right back out of the cut, and directly back at my legseek
if the angle of attack is too steep.
Excellent example, Mr. Hossom. As most commercial machetes are made from relatively thin stock and have no bevel to speak of other than the edge, I would think that they would be one of the best blades on which to use a convex edge. How high up do you take the convex edge "bevel"?That differs from my personal experience, unless the angle of attack is so extreme it would have deflected or tended to slice down with the grain or bark of the wood regardless of how it was sharpened. I spent a couple years hauling a machete around the jungle in the Army and have seen them used and abused, and in at about all levels of edge deterioration imaginable. If one deflects towards your legs, I'd suggest you might change the position of your feet. The normal position for a right-handed person chopping standing wood with a machete is with the left leg forward, protected by the tree, and right leg back, well clear of how the machete will travel if it deflects.
I've convexed a number of machetes for friends and they seem to prefer them to the standard factory edge. (somewhat understated)
That differs from my personal experience, unless the angle of attack is so extreme it would have deflected or tended to slice down with the grain or bark of the wood regardless of how it was sharpened.
If one deflects towards your legs, I'd suggest you might change the position of your feet. The normal position for a right-handed person chopping standing wood with a machete is with the left leg forward, protected by the tree, and right leg back, well clear of how the machete will travel if it deflects.