Convex Edges

B

Bobby Guapo

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How many here convex the edges of their Beckers.

I want a count here. If you own lets say 5 Beckers but only one is convexed then tell me so and why are not all of them convexed. If none of yours are convexed then let me know and why.

Do you feel convexing is worth the trouble of convexing the blade and keeping track of leather and the such when all we really need is a few stones.
 
I don't have a becker, but convexing is very easy with belt sander. The flex in the belt causes a convex edge actually.
 
Im not sure how many Beckers I have but pretty much they are all convexed. I dont do it to all of my knives but the Beckers seem to do well with it. One that I havent re-profiled is the BK77
 
I discovered convexing on my own when I was a teenager (1980s) and I've been doing it ever since. I only do a "short convex" and feel no need to do a full convex. I like it because it makes for a edge which not only cuts better, but is also stronger.
 
Pretty much every knife I use has a convex edge. The main reason is ease of upkeep. Getting it convex can be a pain without a belt grinder, but upkeep is a breeze.
 
All 15 of my Beckers aside from my limited edition BK-10 have been convexed. Even my Ramora. I prefer the convex to a v-grind for the most part. I have been thinking of getting another 16 to keep with a reprofiled v-grind, just to put my KME to good use, and I wanted to see how it compares to a convexed 16 for bushcraft.
 
Zero edge scandi or convex edge for me. Scandi for fine work on wood, as it bites deep and cuts like a laser. For general utility or larger knives it can be too fragile, though. That's where the convex comes in... You can produce different grades of convex edges, from a hair-splitting edge that still lasts surprisingly long, to a much more obtuse edge that only goes up to paper slicing sharp, but is almost impossible to chip or roll.

On my beckers, I think convex is the way to go. It is easily maintained with a waterstone and a leather strop.
 
I convex my Eskabar too. In my opinion, it improves edge retention and the edge is stronger too, less likely to roll on you. It cuts well, too.
 
I own 1 Becker (an FPR BK-16) and it is convexed.
Outside of my Japanese kitchen knives and maybe 1 or two pocket knives, everything I have is convex now.
I keep a loaded strop in the garage, and a plain one in the kitchen. I touch up at least 1 blade per day - and find it much easier than remembering to soak stones for a while and doing a bunch at once.
Plus, I like the way convex edges cut, and hold an edge.
 
I have more Beckers than I care to count right now. However only 1 of them is convexed. I would rather use a good V edge that I can touch up on my KME with no problem.
 
I have a BK2, BK16, and BK14. I have convexed them all using sandpaper over leather...

CVBK003.jpg



Then onto a leather strop...

CVBK005.jpg



I try to convex everything due to the extra edge strength and for ease of maintenance. Easy to maintain a convex with just a strop or if I am in a hurry, a turbo charged leather belt...

DSC01093.jpg


:D
 
Dad bought me a "Work Sharp" for a Christmas present. Needless to say my wife is afraid to cut up anything in the kitchen (not used to all the cheap ones being shaving sharp) and almost all of my "working" and pocket knives are now Convex. I find it is more durable and easy to strop back when it dulls. I know that I just put myself in a position for criticism for using the Work Sharp, but hey its a fancy little belt sander that works very quickly and produces a nice edge.
 
cschol said:
Dad bought me a "Work Sharp" for a Christmas present. Needless to say my wife is afraid to cut up anything in the kitchen (not used to all the cheap ones being shaving sharp) and almost all of my "working" and pocket knives are now Convex. I find it is more durable and easy to strop back when it dulls. I know that I just put myself in a position for criticism for using the Work Sharp, but hey its a fancy little belt sander that works very quickly and produces a nice edge.
Click to expand...

No criticism here. I tried convexing mine on sandpaper and mouse pads. Took, about, FOREVER. Some I improved, some I never got sharp.
Now the Work Sharp is all I'll use to profile to convex. Using it has made me much better at sharpening, honing, and stropping by hand, as well. (And vice-versa.)
I still do the final pass (prior to loaded and plain leather strops, that is) on the std 6000 belt, but I use 80, 180, 360, and/or 800 mesh Micro-Mesh belts (depending on edge condition) rather than the std 200 grit to set the profile, create the burr and begin the honing process.
I continue to try my hand at maintaining by hand, (with strops, or fine sandpaper on the mouse pads) but when they're too far gone or I just can't seem to get 'em hair-popping - the WSKTS gets 'em back there, quickly, every time.
That little bugger is a great learning tool, can be a lifesaver for reprofiling or restoring a damaged edge. It's darn handy for other things, too (shaping handles, scales and liners; restoring brushed finish on a stainless flashlight; sharpening garden tools, etc.)
 
I will eventually convex my Beckers (2,9 and 14). Mainly I'm to lazy to do it just because I want to. I'll do it when they need a good sharpening.
 
I've basically convexed every knife I own using the Work Sharp. I prefer convex to any other grind at this point. I also highly recommend the Work Sharp Sharpener. It puts one heck of a hair popping edge on a blade with minimal effort and/or time.
 
I just realized that other than the micro-convexing from stropping which I do to almost all blades, I never convex any hollow ground blades or scandi ground blades (don't have many of those though). Does anyone convex hollow ground blades?

To the original question, of my Beckers, the 14 and 16 are convexed. The 5 I haven't touched yet, but plan to convex, and the 13 is hollow ground, so I don't plan to convex it. One of my EDC is convexed, and the other is not. None of my kitchen knives are intentionally convexed, though my skill level with a steel isn't that high.

Erik
 
I recently learned to convex an edge and I used the factory v edge for a few days in the woods and it quickly dulled. I convexed my BK2 and it is a hell of stronger, longer lasting, and it's way easier to get back into a razor sharp edge. To me, it was worth the few minutes of trouble and trial and error.
 
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