Convex edges

I would like to know if using stones on convex edge knives is ok....I think that the answer would be no....and if i did that maybe that is why it's taking so long to get my convex edge back?

Convexing on a stone is OK, and it CAN produce an excellent edge, but it places a premium on skill. Those who can do it well, have been working at it a long time. It's MUCH easier to do on a softer backing, such as leather. If just 'stropping' on plain leather (or with compound on leather) doesn't quite get the job done, the exact same motion can be used with some wet/dry sandpaper laid atop the soft backing. Edge-trailing 'stropping' motion, but you're using a coarser grit. To get a feel for the technique, start with a fairly fine grit (like 1000/2000), and make a few stropping passes on it with the blade's edge flush to the paper. Take a look at the edge, to see how it's changed, where the metal is being removed. It helps greatly to use a good magnifier and bright light, so you won't miss any of the visual clues as to what's happening. Using the finer grit will give you enough indication of what's going on with your technique, without doing too much damage if your technique is a bit off. Once you get a feel for the technique, you can make adjustments in grit to accomplish the work that needs to be done.

Sharpening is all about 'feel', for the most part. In order to develop that feel, it takes patient, observant practice. For convexing, I'd encourage you to experiment with different 'degrees' of backing firmness (leather, mouse pad, phone book, rubber sanding blocks, etc.), and see what works best for you, especially what makes learning the technique more productive. Generally speaking, the 'softer' the backing, the more convex you'll get. And conversely, the firmer the backing, the less convex it'll be. There's nothing at all wrong with either, as it can be tailored to the knife & the task. I'll also add, in my experience, it'll usually be easier to prevent dulling (rounding) the cutting edge by using a more firm (but still somewhat forgiving) backing.
 
I cringe a bit to advise it, but possibly the best way to convex with a stone is to use a circular motion on the stone. I still use a "puck" on my axes and the convex edge that I can produce is quite serviceable, though not as good as the sandpaper. Heck I have a tough time rivaling my sandpaper edges using any other method. I've been experimenting with convexing on a stone using a modified push stroke and the edges are just not that good. A few weeks back I was goofing around with circular sharpening and was surprised to get a good (if esthetically unappealing) edge. Using a regular fore and aft type stroke, you have to hit the apex dead on, repeatedly, with no bevel to reference the angle to. It can be done, but it is very challenging.

HH
 
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