Convex or scandi grind

Hotshot10

Hotshot10

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I'm curious to know, between the convex and the scandi grind, which is your favorite for outdoors stuff (hiking, fishing, hunting, camping, etc.)? Why?
 
For an all around, general purpose cutting tool I'll take a convex every time. In my experience, I've found them to be tougher than a scandi when used roughly, and (for me) they slice way better than a scandi.

For a wood specific tool, a scandi is the hands down winner. I've owned and used some pretty decent scandi grind knives (BattleHorse, LT Wright, Enzo) and none of them cut any better than a carbon steel Mora Companion. For this reason, I always pack a Mora too - they're cheap, lightweight and work as well as any other scandi grind knife I've ever used.

If I want to do some wood work, I will sometimes dig the Companion out of my pack, but nine times out of ten I'll just grab my Fallkniven F1 and do whatever needs doing.....The Mora is more often than not just a spare knife in case something happens to my F1.....
 
First you would need an agreed definition of "Scandi" grind, and there is none. Easy to assume that there is because the word is thrown around so freely.

Sellers know "scandi" sells, so they call all manner of knives "Scandi." - with or without a secondary bevel - with concave primary bevel - whatever (See also "tactical" or on eBay "Bowie.")

"Convex = ?? Saber with single bevel convex primary? Saber with convex secondary? Flat with convex secondary? Entirely convex? Convex primary with flat secondary? Many ways to skin a pocket.

Then there is "scandivex." :D

If you try a knife and like it, then you know what to look for in other knives.
 
Brommeland said:
If I want to do some wood work, I will sometimes dig the Companion out of my pack, but nine times out of ten I'll just grab my Fallkniven F1 and do whatever needs doing.....The Mora is more often than not just a spare knife in case something happens to my F1.....
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Do you sharpen or strop the F1? I have one that's starting to need it. I assume that nice little sharpening stone that comes with the F1 isn't the greatest for a convex edge.
 
I use sandpaper on a stiff mouse pad for my convex sharpening. No problems thus far.''ed: I strop on cardboard to try and keep 'em sharp.
 
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Howdy!

I use a strop most of the time to keep my F1's sharp. If they get too dull for that, I will give them a few light passes on white ceramic rods @ 17 degrees and then strop. If I need to repair edge damage, re-profile or sharpen one that has really gotten dull, I use sandpaper(400 grit to start) backed by a hard block type leather strop, then a few strokes on the ceramic rods and finally stropping on a slack strop.
 
Thomas Linton said:
I use sandpaper on a stiff mouse pad for my convex sharpening. No problems thus far.''ed: I strop on cardboard to try and keep 'em sharp.
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Cardboard? No kidding. That's the first time I have heard that, although I know some people use leather.
 
Brommeland said:
Howdy!

I use a strop most of the time to keep my F1's sharp. If they get too dull for that, I will give them a few light passes on white ceramic rods @ 17 degrees and then strop. If I need to repair edge damage, re-profile or sharpen one that has really gotten dull, I use sandpaper(400 grit to start) backed by a hard block type leather strop, then a few strokes on the ceramic rods and finally stropping on a slack strop.
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Interesting. What angle do you hold the F1 to strop?

I've favored scandi grinds for ease of freehand sharpening, but maybe I need to stop fearing the strop.
 
What makes cardboard a standard material for testing abrasion resistance of blades is the fact that it is abrasive. After a session of stropping it will be noticeably darkened - with steel.
 
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Hotshot10 said:
Interesting. What angle do you hold the F1 to strop?

I've favored scandi grinds for ease of freehand sharpening, but maybe I need to stop fearing the strop.
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Just lay the knife flat on the strop and then lift the spine until the edge touches leather, then draw backward (away from edge) using only light pressure.

Stropping can be a bit intimidating if you've never done it, but once you actually try it you'll find that it is actually quite easy. FWIW, I also strop my scandis. Stropping adds a new level of "bite" to any edge regardless of how fine of a stone or sandpaper you've used to sharpen the knife.
 
Brommeland said:
Just lay the knife flat on the strop and then lift the spine until the edge touches leather, then draw backward (away from edge) using only light pressure.

Stropping can be a bit intimidating if you've never done it, but once you actually try it you'll find that it is actually quite easy. FWIW, I also strop my scandis. Stropping adds a new level of "bite" to any edge regardless of how fine of a stone or sandpaper you've used to sharpen the knife.
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Any recommendation on strops and compounds? I saw some of the ones at USA Made Blade that look compact enough for me to take on my hunting and hiking trips.
 
Do a Google search on "Brommeland Gunleather Strops". You'll find them at most places that sell knives. I cannot recommend them highly enough;)
 
Brommeland said:
Do a Google search on "Brommeland Gunleather Strops". You'll find them at most places that sell knives. I cannot recommend them highly enough;)
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Haha. I can't believe that I missed that. I'll have one ordered by the end of the month.
 
Depends. There's a huge difference between a sub 3/32 inch carbon mora and 1/8 inch thick plus scandi. IMO the thick scandis are garbage but the mora is great.

My preference is for a thin scandi but only because it takes less concentration to get them screaming sharp. If I want a more stout knife I'll choose flat,saber or convex. All good if done right.
 
Shotgun said:
Depends. There's a huge difference between a sub 3/32 inch carbon mora and 1/8 inch thick plus scandi. IMO the thick scandis are garbage but the mora is great.

My preference is for a thin scandi but only because it takes less concentration to get them screaming sharp. If I want a more stout knife I'll choose flat,saber or convex. All good if done right.
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Exactly! I tried a Garberg and it would not cut for crap. A 3/32" carbon Mora teamed up with a beefier knife for the heavy duty stuff makes a lot of sense to me. I carry a Fallkniven F1, a Companion carbon and a folding Silky saw. In the summer, I add a Condor Speed Machete.
 
I have favorite knives that are convex, and favorites that are Scandi. I have others that are full flat grind, saber grind and hollow grind. They all seem to work fine
 
I own a two small Barkies that were convex
I put a straight grind on them
All my other knives are scandi or flat
My preference is a zero grind scandi
Gets for wood work
If I need to do heavy cutting I have a saw and a small axe
 
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