Convex sharpening - What am I missing?

Steve Ferguson puts a convex edge on a blade that will split atoms.
 
Fiddleback said:
Unless I'm just touching up an edge, I start with 220 grit sandpaper. OOOOOOO. Big whup. Your sharpmaker is taking off a fine sliver of metal over a small area. You're trying to reconvex something down to a zero edge if you're goin at 12 degrees. Thats a fair bit of metal to remove, and you're using 1200 grit paper. Those knives are just laughing at you. It'd be like building the sears tower with tweezers.

Start with 220 grit, go to 400 grit, then 600, then your 1200. (I never go past 400 grit.)

Cardboard makes the best strop I've ever used hands down. Nothing removes a burr as fast as plain old cardboard without loading it with anything at all.
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This is quite interesting Fiddleback; I've never thought of that! Makes a lot of sense since so many "tests" use cardboard to check edge durability. I've ordered my first convex from David Farmer so all of this is great information. I know his knife is going to come sharp, but having never owned such a grind, this thread is so valuable. That is what is so great about this forum. Where else can you get such information from folks that actually are knife artisans and craftsmen? :thumbup::thumbup:
 
I've seen Ban's work in person, and its good stuff. I don't do mirror polished edges. I like em toothy. Ban's edges are mirror bright and sharp enough to split an RCH.
 
I could probably keep a convex touched up but it might require a good sharpening now and then. What is a good way to maintain a good sharp convex wedge?
 
i would suggest a strop loaded with compound, and depending on what kind of shape its in, a strop with some fine sandpaper (for me, in the neighborhood of 1200 grit. you might like a toothier edge)
 
Usually a strop is all it takes. See above for a really dull blade.
 
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