convex vs flat beckers for feather sticks?

mountainmist

mountainmist

Joined
Jun 12, 2013
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Hey gang! I Was looking at getting a Fallkniven F1 to replace my bk16 for a primary bushcraft blade. I started reading about the fallkniven chipping problem and was scared off :eek: And then a though "I should try convex before a spend $120 in a knife that might have a grind I hate". So my question is, should I convex my bk16? I manly use my bk16 for feather sticks, 80% of the bushcrafting I do is making feathers. I know some people don't like convex for feathers but I also know some people just aren't good at making feather sticks :p

Does the convex make any difference too someone very good at making feathers *chough*switchblade61*chough* ? Would you recommend the F1 over the bk16 or similar knife?

Thanks!

P.s I posted this in the W&SS section but I thought this would also be appropriate here, if it is not, please close it.
 
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I cannot speak directly for the 16, but my 14 was a good cutter until I convexed it... Now its a lightsaber. Thinning and convexing out my edge really made it so much more of an efficient cutter. For instance, I really like my mora for a crafting blade because of the edge geometry, BUT after I fixed the edge on the 14, it really changed the game. (The same thing goes for my 15 too) The combo of full flat + convex really makes a difference. Some folks do not like a convex, and all knives are not created equal. In summation the FF grind, + drop point + Convex makes it a very versatile cutter. Basically it really works on the 14... and probably the 16 too.. It allows me to make really aggressive and deep cuts, and retains the control necessary to dial it back to make fine shavings. It also upped the ante with other cutting chores too... However, your, or someone else's mileage may vary.
 
Convexed all my Beckers and then stropped them. 1095 takes a great edge and holds it. I second what iwouldhurtafly has said.
 
I convexed my 16 and was very impressed with the results. Scary sharp and edge retention is very good.... I have convexed all my beckers and was very surprised by the bk2 it now cuts almost as well as my fallkniven A1. I would suggest you convex your becker as you would be hard pressed to notice a difference between it and the fallkniven... Only difference would be the edge retention is better on the fallkniven but it is very easy to make a small strop to take with you for touching up your blade in the field.

Just my opinion
 
I much prefer convexed edges, I had a factory bk24 vs my convexed becker necker and the necker own hands down. I lightly convexed the d2 and it's gliding through now.
 
I prefer convex edges but imo any sharp knife can do feather sticks. i love fallkniven knives but in the long run, probably in 10+ years, thermorun (kraton) degrades and you'll either have to find someone who can re handle it or let it be. battle horse knives formerly known as blind horse knives, dogwood custom knives and tops knives (b.o.b fiieldcraft knife) are the ones i recommend for a $120 price range give or take.
 
I'm in that group of people who can't really do feathersticks. They never turn out looking all nice and pretty. But I can still make fires so when push comes to shove, I'll survive.
 
Chameleonbear said:
I'm in that group of people who can't really do feathersticks. They never turn out looking all nice and pretty. But I can still make fires so when push comes to shove, I'll survive.
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+1. I can't make a "nice" feather stick for the life of me. I've tried different types of wood, different sizes/brands of knives, different steels, super sharp blades, etc. and I still can't make even, curly feather sticks.

That's where splitting tiny sticks into micro sticks comes in. (That plus cotton balls and vaseline...)
 
Overall geometry determines how well a knife cuts. Final edge shape has a lot less to do it than people seem to think. If the edge is thin and the bevel is keen, it will cut well. If the edge is thick and the grind is not so keen, obviously convexing it will help it cut better.

On small/medium knives, I recommend V or convex sharpening based entirely on the user's comfort level with them. They both work :)
 
knife chop said:
I prefer convex edges but imo any sharp knife can do feather sticks. i love fallkniven knives but in the long run, probably in 10+ years, thermorun (kraton) degrades and you'll either have to find someone who can re handle it or let it be. battle horse knives formerly known as blind horse knives, dogwood custom knives and tops knives (b.o.b fiieldcraft knife) are the ones i recommend for a $120 price range give or take.
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Hey knife chop, do you have any opinions on Sabenza's?
 
knife chop said:
I prefer convex edges but imo any sharp knife can do feather sticks. i love fallkniven knives but in the long run, probably in 10+ years, thermorun (kraton) degrades and you'll either have to find someone who can re handle it or let it be. battle horse knives formerly known as blind horse knives, dogwood custom knives and tops knives (b.o.b fiieldcraft knife) are the ones i recommend for a $120 price range give or take.
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For ~$120, I'd go for the BK12; it's a lot of Becker for the money and it's not a "repeat" of your 16. The B.O.B. is nice, but is the same basic size as a 16....plus we need some Becker content in this thread.


I will say that the BRKT Bravo 1 that I just received is fully convexed and makes curls like Shirley Temple. It's also 0.21" thick....




I also gave my 2 a decent convex, and once I got the hang of angling the blade correctly, it does a great job of slicing curlicues.
Don't have a pic of that, tho.
 
spydercobenchmadekai said:
+1. I can't make a "nice" feather stick for the life of me. I've tried different types of wood, different sizes/brands of knives, different steels, super sharp blades, etc. and I still can't make even, curly feather sticks.

That's where splitting tiny sticks into micro sticks comes in. (That plus cotton balls and vaseline...)
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It takes this thing called "practice" :D I've probably made 2500+ feather sticks :D I lit my first one last year, try shavings first.
 
willythekid said:
Hey knife chop, do you have any opinions on Sabenza's?
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hey willythekid,

i've handled a sebenza in the past and i have to say it's a league of its own. if money isn't a problem i would buy an umnumzaam. people here can correct me if i'm wrong but i think Chris Reeve mentioned before that sebenza isn't suited for wrist flick type opening and umnumzaam is.
 
granitestateofmind said:
For ~$120, I'd go for the BK12; it's a lot of Becker for the money and it's not a "repeat" of your 16. The B.O.B. is nice, but is the same basic size as a 16....plus we need some Becker content in this thread.


I will say that the BRKT Bravo 1 that I just received is fully convexed and makes curls like Shirley Temple. It's also 0.21" thick....




I also gave my 2 a decent convex, and once I got the hang of angling the blade correctly, it does a great job of slicing curlicues.
Don't have a pic of that, tho.
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nice knives! i'm actually debating between the bob and bravo 1. the notch makes me don't want to buy the bob. on the other hand the bravo 1 is a beautiful knife but there's just too many complaints and issues regarding the knives and its quality. i think i'll just settle on a rodent 4.
 
knife chop said:
nice knives! i'm actually debating between the bob and bravo 1. the notch makes me don't want to buy the bob. on the other hand the bravo 1 is a beautiful knife but there's just too many complaints and issues regarding the knives and its quality. i think i'll just settle on a rodent 4.
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BOB's a great knife even if you don't care about the shango notch. Bravo 1 seems very nice, grinds are a little uneven (looking at the flats from either side) but still...I'm really looking forward to using it some more. Seems very slicey for a blade that thick, and even though mine is used (don't know how much) it has a very scary edge.
 
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