I recently saw a thread here w/ pics of convexing a blade w/ a diamond rod. I've been trying it both on small fixed blades and some machetes, but can't seem to get it as sharp as I want. Any tips from folks that have more experience w/ it than me?
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Convexing in the field w/o sandpaper?
- Thread starter monk3yfist
- Start date
A piece of W/D paper doesn't take up much room and weighs nothing. No reason not to have some with you. For touching up, which is all a properly sharpened convexed blade will need over a couple of week period with normal use, you can strop the knife on your belt, or even your pants leg.
If you are having problems getting the knife sharp, you might be applying too much pressure during the sharpening process.
If you are having problems getting the knife sharp, you might be applying too much pressure during the sharpening process.
I made a strop but how do you get such a heavy uniform coat of compound on yours? What kind of compound as well.
Thanks
If all you have with you in the field, is a stone of some sort, or it's all you can find, i'd suggest trying to put on a micro-bevel on your blade, as that doesn't change much in terms of edge geometry, and leave the convex sharpening to when you get back to your "proper" supplies.
Also, if you're not able to get your blade sharp, you might be using too much pressure, too coarse a grit, or the wrong angle. Or all three.
My 2 cents, as always YMMV.
Also, if you're not able to get your blade sharp, you might be using too much pressure, too coarse a grit, or the wrong angle. Or all three.
My 2 cents, as always YMMV.
Possibly too much pressure and too steep an angle. You need only hit the very edge.
Scott
Scott
Me neither. I believe I'm fairly good at sharpening but I can't get anything like the results I'm accustomed to by using rods or steels especially if they are both waving around like a chef trying to score on a scratchy edge. There's just no way to get the control required.
Try laying your rod flat on something and swiping very gently across it like you are using a stone. If you put a thick stripe of magic marker pen along the cutting edge you'll soon see a scratch pattern of where you are hitting. I've got to say though that steel, diamond, or ceramic rods aren't my preferred method by a good margin.
Try laying your rod flat on something and swiping very gently across it like you are using a stone. If you put a thick stripe of magic marker pen along the cutting edge you'll soon see a scratch pattern of where you are hitting. I've got to say though that steel, diamond, or ceramic rods aren't my preferred method by a good margin.
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thanks for the tips. I think in the end my hand convexing just stinks, but I keep trying 
The roll up strop from JRE is on my wish list, I have been meaning to buy one for weeks. Right next to that on my list is a Badger firesteel from goinggear.com
I am seriously lazy lately, I really want these things, just dont have the time or energy to do it. Thats pretty sad.
I am seriously lazy lately, I really want these things, just dont have the time or energy to do it. Thats pretty sad.
usually too high and angle or too much pressure is the culprit- and you may have to reprofile a bit to fix it. on some convex edges (mostly me, it seems) you have to take a scandi approach and work the whole bevel - but it's worth it.
In the field I usually can get by with even a carboard strop, but there's no reason you can't use a stone. You just have to vary your angles as you go- it's a light technique, not too hard to learn.
In the field I usually can get by with even a carboard strop, but there's no reason you can't use a stone. You just have to vary your angles as you go- it's a light technique, not too hard to learn.