Convexing skills..

Mr.LCV

Mr.LCV

Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
598
Just began my convexing training so that I don't wreck my Busses, I only have up to 800 grit, using the mousepad method, I took a dull knife to paper slicing heaven but it wont shave... Is it me or do I need a higher grit? Also I heard the Tankbuster isn't a true convex, is that true?
 
I am no expert but can keep mine pretty sharp. I tried the mouse pad but had the same issues. I switched to sand paper on leather and noticed a significant improvement. I think the mouse pad is too soft. YMMV.
Keep trying, its worth it.
Josh
 
The most common problem with the mouse pad is too much pressure, and if the knife is not allready convexed, you will need to re profile it first.
 
I've been using the soft side of the mouse pad I guess I'll flip it over and give it a try!
 
With a mouse pad, use very light pressure or you'll round off the edge. If you need to reprofile, you are much better off using a lower grit and working finer, all with light pressure.

I tried the mousepad method, couldn't stand how slow it was, and went to a cheap 1"x30" belt sander with good meant-for-metal belts (key!) and a leather strop belt. Haven't looked back. Just get some cheapy kitchen knives from Goodwill and practice on them a bit first. If you want good instruction (and links), Google "sharpening my way" and "Hossom". It should be you first result. I also have posted a fair bit here on BF about it with links.
 
I reprofiled at 220 it seems convexed, then again this is my first go around....
 
I've got a set of those paper wheels that RichardJ uses that you set up on a grinder. I don't know how he gets the edge convexed and actually I haven't used mine much, but he gets great results.

I dinged my KZII on a wire fence and I put a V edge on it with my EdgePro, but I've been considering going back to a vexed edge. Convex edges don't stick as much when chopping, right?

I may set up my grinder this weekend and get in touch with Richard...
 
SpyderPhreak said:
With a mouse pad, use very light pressure or you'll round off the edge. If you need to reprofile, you are much better off using a lower grit and working finer, all with light pressure.

I tried the mousepad method, couldn't stand how slow it was, and went to a cheap 1"x30" belt sander with good meant-for-metal belts (key!) and a leather strop belt. Haven't looked back. Just get some cheapy kitchen knives from Goodwill and practice on them a bit first. If you want good instruction (and links), Google "sharpening my way" and "Hossom". It should be you first result. I also have posted a fair bit here on BF about it with links.
Click to expand...


+1 for this method
 
Well I took my dull knife to semi sharp, and now I brought it back to dullville, seems to be a steep learning curve.... With the belt sander method, would I just use the belt or do I need the actual belt sander?
 
I convex all my knives on stones. I find that method to be sooo much faster. And it's really not that difficult, even though some people say it is.

Some equipment I often use:
- DMT extra extra coarse for reprofiling. (Most knives need reprofiling the first time it's sharpened)
- DMT fine
- 1000 or 1200, 3000, 6000, 12000 grit Japanese whetstone
- Spyderco ultra fine ceramic stone
- Fallkniven DC521 and DC4 diamond/sapphire combi stone (mostly I use theese in the field)

wp20130223014.jpg


wp20130223013.jpg
 
I use a leather strop instead of a mouse pad under the sandpaper and can easily get my knives shaving sharp now.
 
If you re-profile use mouse pad from 220 to 1000 grit then
you need a two sided leather peddle strop check out DLT trading and Bark River black compound (3000 grit) one one side; Bark River White compound (12000) the other side. you will be able to get scary shaving sharp edges all the time

although unnecessary you can take the edge farther: get one more smaller strop from knifes ship free and load it with chromium oxide (chiefs knives to go) on one side and 0.25 micron diamond spray (chiefs knives to go) on the other
 
well i just ordered a HF 1x30 belt sander and 2 of all the grit belts on usa knife supplies, so i guess ill just wait and watch some vids on how to use the belt sander for sharpening, any tips or tricks?
 
I will use light pressure when reprofiling, but after that I just try to let the weight of the blade be the only pressure.
 
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