Cookin oil as a quench for carbon steel

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Dec 22, 2009
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Hi Guys,

I am trying my hand at heat treating some of my knives today for a bit of practice/trial and error. These are 1075 blades.

Can I use cooking oil? Like Olive oil or canola oil? Any recomendations?

Thanks

Matt
 
Yes you can...
Preheat to 130F and quench
It will go rancid rather fast and is an expensive way to HT
Very good source is McMaster Carr look for the Fast quench oil it will far oulast the cooking oil for around the same price.
 
1. Do a search. This has been covered very, very extensively in the past.

2. "Can" and "Should" are very different things. It will work. It will not be optimal.
 
1. Do a search. This has been covered very, very extensively in the past.

2. "Can" and "Should" are very different things. It will work. It will not be optimal.

They've done studies, you know. They say 60% of the time, it works every time. :D

Jason
 
Of the oils listed so far, Canola will likely give you the best results and be the cheapest to boot.

-d
 
Thanks Guys,

I know I should have done a search, but was on the way out the door. I have ended up with 4 litres of Canola oil. Cheap at $14.00. Ill post some results tonight if I can.

Cheers

Matt
 
I make a lot of slipjoints in Mexico when down there an do not have any true quech oil...not available. I use canola oil on 52100, tested blaes here in the states and found them to be R59...which is what I was shooting for. It works for me.
 
59, before or after the temper? If it is before the temper the quench is not working so good, if it is after we have no numbers to make a judgement on the quench itself. Just an observation about a rather critical point.
 
I have been using olive oil for years for both 01 and 440C and it works well and leaves the shop smelling like the kitchen after quenching. It lasts forever if you keep it covered when not in use.
 
i have used canola oil for quite some time for quenching the knives i make and i get some great results. my blades made from 1075 rc between 63 - 65 rc which is right where i want them. i save the oil from my deep fryer and reuse it. just strain the oil first or let the jug sit and pour off the clean oil.
 
Kevin: The R59 was after tempering. I bring the 52100 up to 1550f, hold for 10 minutes and quench in warmed canola. Temper two times at 400f.
 
Folks please use whatever you like, I gave up any interest in that topic some time ago, but Rockwell numbers are being cited that are leaving me with a bit of confusion, and if it is confusing me I know it has to be losing other folks.

To judge the quench you need to have numbers on the as-quenched hardness (before temper) and while a range is good for after tempering (it can be anything you like after all) a range does not bode well for a quench. To show that the hardening operation was effective in avoiding softer structures you want to be within a point or two (only two if you are utlilizing marquenching techniques) of the maximum hardness. Martensite hardened to 65 HRC and then drawn back to 63 is good stuff, as-quenched steel that should be 65, but is only 63 or less, obviously is not entirely martensitic and would leave me looking for another quench (provided the soak temperature was correct). The other trouble would be where the tests were taken, obviously it had to be taken on a flat spot without a bevel in order for the test to mean something, this would mean a thicker area like the ricasso or tang, but in order for 10XX to give a reasonable approximation to the edge the test area would have to be around 1/8” or under and then the lower numbers would worry me once again.

Once again, far be it from me to tell anybody what to use for a quench, and that is not what I am doing here, but Rockwell numbers are often pointed to as the final word in many aspects of heat treating when it is far from it. It can be a very powerful tool in seeing one section of the puzzle but is much less than useful when not applied very carefully and in context. I humbly and gently present that as my only point here.
 
Kevin: The R59 was after tempering. I bring the 52100 up to 1550f, hold for 10 minutes and quench in warmed canola. Temper two times at 400f.

O.K. So the numbers where not as-quenched, which had me concerned because 52100 is an oil hardening steel and should be able to spike the range with just about any oil.

Just a little added tidbit (forgive me if it is presumptuous) - if you drop your soak temp to around 1475F to 1500F you may gain around 2 or three points of initial hardness, but it will require a more aggressive tempering schedule to get you back to 61-59 again. With the elimination of retained austentie issues 52100 can reach 67 HRC with little problem.

Perhaps this is all a little more on my mind since I am finishing up a rather ambitious project that involved entering details of every hardness test I have done in my shop for the last 5 years into a searchable database. For years I have kept a notebook beside my tester and recorded information on as-quenched, and every subsequent tempered hardness readings, thinking someday it may be useful, putting it into a cataloged format may make it more so. But the numbers are definitely more decipherable and useful when combined with the other pertinent information and comparative tests.
 
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OK so here is what I'm getting out of all of this...

Canola or Olive Oil: Good Enough

Parks AAA/proper quench oil: When "good enough" just doesn't cut it


I'm going to heat treat some knives this weekend in a computer controlled kiln with some canola for quench. I'm going to use them all myself, I think I'm going to end up with some great knives.

When I start selling knives I'm going to use some purpose made oil. I'm going to because anything I sell has to be made with no compromises.
 
I am far from an expert on the subject and many more knowledgeable members have posted their views on the subject, but I think that a properly designed quench will work 100x better than cooking oil. With that said I hardened a guard and pommel yesterday with canola oil, I don't know the RC rating on the pieces, but before tempering they skated a file and after temper the file just starts to dig in.

$14.00 for 4 litters of canola would be a crime here:eek: I think I paid $10 for 8 litters
 
Kevin: Agreed that the canola oil is not the best...but it is all I have in Mexico. Soooo....... I would love to see your database when you finish it. WIll it be available to the public? Thanks very much for your interest.
 
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