Copper and Brass (and maybe nickel silver)

E

edacsac

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May 19, 2010
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Hello,

I'm trying to get some metals together, and I want to make sure I'm getting the most suitable types.

As far as copper goes, I'm thinking 101, since 110 has been described as "anneal resistant. For brass, I'm thinking 260 or 385, and I might be interested in a "red" brass, but that's not a McMaster Carr item. I think I want everything to weldable, fusable, and certainly easily workable with hand tools. I just need to know if I'm on the right track or are there other recommendations. It seems that just a minimum amount will probably last me indefinatly, so I'd like to choose correctly up-front. I'm going to cut, file, sand, drill, polish, possibly braze, and maybe one day diffuse weld. But I'm quite sure you guys know what someone is going to do with brass and copper.

Nickel silver, I don't see anything up my alley at McMaster Carr. I don't need it right away I don't think, but any recommendation is appreciated.

I've been going over this for quite some time, and I'd like to check it off my list, so I'd be grateful for opinions.

Maybe I'm overthinking this since I don't see any prior discussion on this.
 
Cool! I have been working with those metals a bit lately... especially Copper. Lots of fun. I don;t have enough experience with Nickel Silver or Brass to say much yet but they do seem similar from the little I have done.

Check out www.monsterslayer.com for all sorts of cool stuff, that I where I get some of my materials. www.onlinemetals.com also has decent prices on copper and other alloys. I got a selection of scrap from Monsterslayer... sheet, bezel wire, thicker wire, etc.

Copper 110 (99.9% pure) will anneal, just heat it until almost dull red and quench in water. It can take a good torch to get a thicker (1/8" bracelet for example) piece hot.

You won't need a lot of tools, I do everything by hand. I have even successfully hard soldered (and annealed) copper with a cheap propane torch but my Smith torch does work way better.

I'd buy a small amount and see how you like it, they are all fun but different to work with... especially after being used to Titanium and Steel. I especially enjoy working with Copper. I just cast some Shibuichi in sandstone which was a lot of fun.
 
Your terms "weldable, fusable, and workable" are a concern.

Working these metals is pretty basic. Anneal, work, anneal, work, etc. Even that will have a learning curve of how hot to heat before the annealing quench and how much to work the metal before the next anneal..

Welding then is not simple, and fusing them (I assume you mean mokume-gane) is a much more sophisticated skill. The equipment level goes up drastically as you attempt these tasks, too.
 
Thank you Dan and Stacy!

I was just worried about that whole "anneal resistant" attribute of 110 copper that I keep seeing, but it sounds like it isn't a problem. Hah, a smith torch; another load of choices. What fuel is preferred for a smith torch?

Welding then is not simple, and fusing them (I assume you mean mokume-gane) is a much more sophisticated skill. The equipment level goes up drastically as you attempt these tasks, too.
Click to expand...
You know I'm dying to try it, whether I fail horribly or not.
 
A Smith Little Torch is a very useful tool, but it isn't what you want for annealing ( far too low BTU output). A standard brazing torch works fine. I use a Prest-O-lite torch for annealing tasks. You can change the tip size to control the flame size, and they provide a nice even heating for bringing things up to red heat. Big plus is you only need a "B" bottle of acetylene and no oxygen tank. They are also rather low cost. Used ones are regularly found for $10.

To answer your question - A Smith torch runs well on propane and oxygen. Jewelers and silversmiths use them a lot.
 
So a Prest-O-lite could cover all my torch needs? $10 to $305 for the kit without tank at airgas is a huge difference. I want the $10 deal. Are the "Victor" air/acetylene torches good as well?
 
Copper is wonderful...I anneal it in the gas forge, unless it's tiny.
The plumbing supply section of the hardware store can be your friend here too-the caps/cups they sell for closing off an unused line can be annealed and raised into some pretty suprising shapes. (I have a rescue tanto that was a theater knife from the Pacific done up in all-plumbing mounts and you'd never know...)
 
I ordered a piece of copper from jantz I think. I was also interested in doing some forced patina on whatever I come up with, but I still want to mix it other metals, brazed, soldered, welded, whatever. Got some images in my head.

Still need to figure out a heat source though...
 
My answer really should have been... get some metal and try a piece! :D

My Smith torch is just like a Presto-Lite torch... they make two versions and mine is a big torch that runs off of a B tank and no O2. I also have a Presto-Lite, from what I see the only big difference is the hand piece ergonomics and dial. But yes, a tiny torch is great for soldering as it won't blow your work away but you need a big tip and torch for annealing.

I snagged the Presto-Lite at the local flea market for $40, it needs a new hose. I looked actively for years but they go quick here as making Silver Jewelry is one of the main professions. If you can find one it is all you will need, I only bought my nicer torch after a long search... and found the Presto-Lite a week or two later of course.

I use firebrick to reflect the heat while annealing too, reflection/insulation goes a long way.

By the way I researched this stuff for just way too long and my perspective has likely changed after using so many tools in the knife shop. I find the base metals to be a lot of fun and much more forgiving that say a Framelock.
 
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