Corby problem

Yes....Carefully. Cut a notch in each end of the screw/bolt set. Heat gently with soldering iron......turn out old screws,
then re-countersink a little deeper. Shorten male and female ends of new screw, and check depth....then replace in scales.
 
I put mine at about .190" and mark that on the top and bottom with a line on the scale to insure not to go to deep.
 
Russ Andrews said:
Yes....Carefully. Cut a notch in each end of the screw/bolt set. Heat gently with soldering iron......turn out old screws,
then re-countersink a little deeper. Shorten male and female ends of new screw, and check depth....then replace in scales.
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Brilliant Russ. I'll have to wait until I get the right bit for my mill I think, unless there's some way that I am overlooking to slot the things.
I was wondering if heating would loosen the epoxy enough to unscrew. There is epoxy on the threads as well.
 
I had a problem with a scale and was able to get the corby out with a screw extractor in my cordless impact. The screw extractor set is a few bucks at harbor freight.
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When this happened to me I drilled out the pin with a 3/16th and then replaced the bolt with a 1/4 inch nickel silver pin. It looked perfect so I drilled out the other bolt also and pinned it. I used Loveless bolts after that for a while until I had more confidence but now use Corbys... but measure a bit more first. Larry Lehman
 
LARRYZ10 said:
When this happened to me I drilled out the pin with a 3/16th and then replaced the bolt with a 1/4 inch nickel silver pin. It looked perfect so I drilled out the other bolt also and pinned it. I used Loveless bolts after that for a while until I had more confidence but now use Corbys... but measure a bit more first. Larry Lehman
Click to expand...

I really like the corbys too. Careful measuring. I will pay much more attention to the depth going forward.
 
I set my counterbore to leave about 1/16" in the bottom of every knife I make. Then when I'm mocking it up and my corbys don't seat all the way I shorten them on the grinder.
 
Matt R said:
I set my counterbore to leave about 1/16" in the bottom of every knife I make. Then when I'm mocking it up and my corbys don't seat all the way I shorten them on the grinder.
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Hey Matt, not sure what you mean about not seating all the way, and what part do you shorten?
 
Kevin is correct. If the tang is too thin then the bolts are tight before they seat in the hole. That's when I shorten both ends so they will pull up tight.
 
I had this very same thing happen to me last week. I was all in a panic! Paging Dr Gregory, Paging Dr Gregory. Eventually I simply drilled it out using a 1/8" bit (same diameter as the screw shaft), and the bit was easily centered due to the hole being present (exactly as you have pictured). Once the 1/8" hole was drilled, the corby head easily fell out. To fix.....I used the same sized corby, but just cut both ends (male and female) a bit shorter so as to not have the same problem again, and screwed in place. Voila....disaster averted. I had actually already gone online and ordered stainless rod the same diameter as the corby head, not realizing that I could fix it using a new, shorter, corby!
 
One way to slot it would be with a dremel with an abrasive slitting disk. It would be....exciting....but would work.
 
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