Cost of sharpening

[Spideyjg]

I gig 3-5 on pockets depending the issue.

Fixing an improperly sharpened tanto tip is probably the worst case.

Jim

 

[Mr.Wizard]

HeavyHanded Thanks. Is that $12 total or $12 extra for a bread knife?

Abused serrations on cheap knives seem unfortunately common. Ben Dale of Edge Pro teaches grinding the back but I had trouble with burrs unless the knife is already pretty sharp; I guess that's what the buffer is for but I don't have one. I think if I ever sharpen $15 bread knives for profit I will have to use a buffer as I cannot see myself being fast enough with a setup like yours to make it practical.

I would like to be able to sharpen combo edges on better knives however. Does your tapered file leave a nice looking scallop or is that why you do not guarantee the cosmetics? Do you use more than one grit? How are you deburring?

 

[Mr.Wizard]

T tiguy7 Have you tried a horizontal equivalent of your setup? Holding the flat of the knife parallel to the floor, rather than perpendicular, and the stone angled accordingly? I have seen others using that method and I wonder if you have compared the two.

 

[tiguy7]

In theory wouldn't that same setup work with any kind of stones like KME stones, etc? If I get into freehand sharpening again, it will be with dry stones I think. This would be a good compromise. How well does it work for heavy duty re-profiling? Not that I will likely ever do that, but that seems to be the one downside to the sharpmaker according to those who know.

With this rig, you can use stones of various sizes and materials. I use 2 1/2” X 11 1/2” X 1/2” Norton Coarse Silicon Carbide stones (dry) for reprofiling (120 grit). This set up is much faster than smaller sized, finer grit stones.

 

[tiguy7]

T tiguy7 Have you tried a horizontal equivalent of your setup? Holding the flat of the knife parallel to the floor, rather than perpendicular, and the stone angled accordingly? I have seen others using that method and I wonder if you have compared the two.

Easy question. It is much easier for me to free hand a vertical orientation than a horizontal one. The center of the earth is a much easier target for my edge than the horizon. I do sharpen scissors that way (11 degrees off horizontal), but the tip of the other blade is pointed right at the center of the earth.

 

[Jason Puckett]

With this rig, you can use stones of various sizes and materials. I use 2 1/2” X 11 1/2” X 1/2” Norton Coarse Silicon Carbide stones (dry) for reprofiling (120 grit). This set up is much faster than smaller sized, finer grit stones.

Well, dangit, just when I thought I had decided it made more sense to get somebody else to do my sharpening for me, you have me intrigued. Guess I need to start looking for an angle vise. I don't suppose you have a source for the stone holders you'd be willing to share? I've got a machine shop nearby, but I don't know if they do anything with aluminum.

 

[bucketstove]

Well, dangit, just when I thought I had decided it made more sense to get somebody else to do my sharpening for me, you have me intrigued. Guess I need to start looking for an angle vise. I don't suppose you have a source for the stone holders you'd be willing to share? I've got a machine shop nearby, but I don't know if they do anything with aluminum.

Hi,
Got wood? Screw it! It doesn't take much.
If you're fine with a horizontal sharpening, cardboard will hold up a stone without problem.

Adjustable Sharpening Wedge Version 2.0 - Ewerstruly

The final apex the $2-$3 snap together knife sharpener

 

[HeavyHanded]

HeavyHanded Thanks. Is that $12 total or $12 extra for a bread knife?

Abused serrations on cheap knives seem unfortunately common. Ben Dale of Edge Pro teaches grinding the back but I had trouble with burrs unless the knife is already pretty sharp; I guess that's what the buffer is for but I don't have one. I think if I ever sharpen $15 bread knives for profit I will have to use a buffer as I cannot see myself being fast enough with a setup like yours to make it practical.

I would like to be able to sharpen combo edges on better knives however. Does your tapered file leave a nice looking scallop or is that why you do not guarantee the cosmetics? Do you use more than one grit? How are you deburring?

The single biggest thing that makes my system work is having a tapered handle that matches the taper on the DMT rod. I cannot emphasize this enough and it is crazy that they don't sell it with one. I have considered turning some myself out of hardwood or aluminum and selling them it is so handy.

The $12 is total for the bread knife, +$7 on a combination edge.
Bread knives are usually made from very low RC steel, so once its set up you can regrind an individual scallop in about 30 seconds. Priced out I try to get close to $1/minute for my time, sometimes I beat that, oftentimes I don't but is a pretty good average. Most folks won't spend the $12 as their bread knife saws through bagels just fine even if its a little dull.

I don't guarantee cosmetics (at that price point) because just as with the regular grind, many serrations are not cut uniformly or consistently. When it gets to my jig, I'd have to grind out anything that isn't already correct. I can redo knives I've already done very quickly.

In terms of cosmetics, if the serrations are beat up, I'd have to grind the good ones all the way back to where the damaged ones are when they've been redone - I'm not doing that. Often I'll increase the angle slightly and that leaves the edge with a nice set of uniform scallops but a bit of transition line at the base/bottom of the trough. For me to regrind all of those and have them line up is possible, but again not at that price point.

Have learned it is important to run the taper with the narrow end furthest from the spine - the wider end hits the scallop from the base, not from the edge. Am not sure why, but this makes a big difference in avoiding the taper cutting a low spot in the middle and having the outside edges of the trough cut nice and clean. I use a U motion as I work.

I use a coarse DMT taper (did I already say I wish they'd make an XC taper?), run a fine taper along the backside to stand the burr back up, reduce/push it back over once, run the fine taper along the backside one more time and then strop with a handful of card stock loaded with compound along the edges - it separates around the high points and preserves the sharper transitions better than just buffing the whole thing.

I don't sweat a small burr here or there, the factory ones often as not have burrs aplenty. Generally they turn out virtually burr free and shaving arm hair.

This is the knife from the demo video, a customized Mora rope knife. Initially came with very shallow serrations and not terribly sharp, so the ones cut in are a complete regrind at a more acute angle. In this case I discuss in the video having a sliding sleeve on the horizontal rod that keeps the taper handle from moving out of perpendicular to the edge - works great and is yet another improvement to the cosmetics.

I need to get a few more diamond files so I can do more edge types. Have used it for dental scalers, dog and cat nail clippers.

 

[REK Knives]

If you want a good way to sharpen serrations and not have to do the back side .. Get some paper wheels, radius the face with some sandpaper then grit it. You can then use another to remove the burr with some compound. They sell 1/4" wide shaper wheels which is perfect for this. this is a cheap and simple solution to getting good serrated edges

 

[ksknives]

I have personally been using a wicked edge system lately. The first sharpening is the longest especially if you go for a good even sharpening with same degree on each side, or you can try to match factory and go without re-profile. I see most of the cost this way being on first sharpening.

If you use same person with a sharpening system like this touch-ups should be quite a bit cheaper then initial sharpening. If they keep good notes you can do this pretty quick compared to initial sharpening.

 

[OhioApexing]

I think it depends. Like if someone has a non damaged edge and they don’t care about cosmetics and they just want a working edge on a 3-4” folder, I’d charge about $10+ shipping. It would take me about 30 minutes and 2-3 stones. Most of the time would be spent taping the blade (I use an Edge Pro), and finding the factory angle.

Now, if you’ve got say, a DLC coated M4 PM2 and you want it taken to a high polish with consistent hair-whittling sharpness across the entire edge and bevels as closely matched as possible, I’d want at least $20+ shipping. I’d be using at least 5 stones and at least 3 strops. People would do it cheaper, no doubt, but that’s simply what it would be worth to me. I’d probably spend 90 minutes working on it, checking the edge under a microscope, etc.

 

[MyLegsAreOk]

Know a guy in a gun store 20, know another guy in thee knife store (100% MSRP thank you very much) 60
20~60