I agree with the 'tom-boy/supermodel' analogy, in regards to the HI katana and other, high-end katana. I'll be frank and say that the HI katana is one of the most ugliest katana I have ever seen, and that's saying something. It will lose in aesthetics to any nihonto, and to some gaijinto. The 'saya' for the HI katana is WAY out of spec and doesn't resemble any historical saya that I know of.
That said, I wonder sometimes if high-end katana are actually even MEANT to be used for cutting. If you soak the tsuka in water, the wood will rot and the ito will loosen. If blood gets on your tsuka, a complete disassembly and cleaning is required. If blood or water get beneath the habaki, it will eat away at the metal, where you won't see it until you dismount the sword.
If you don't sheath the blade correctly, it will cut into the saya. If you don't UNsheath the blade correctly, it will cut through the koiguchi and into your hand. If you bump the saya against something, you stand a high chance of ruining the lacquer job. And let's not talk about the high-maintenance, high-cost polish that reveals the hamon and nie/nioi, etc!!
Of course, there's no free lunch. If a blade aspires to be a true katana, some trade-offs are required and among them is the wood-core tsuka, among other things. My preference is for a blade that requires moderate and reasonable maintenance, with a wood core tsuka, full same' wrap, silk tsuka-ito, and plain iron kodogu (metal furniture).
Basically, a plain-looking katana that understates its inherent beauty and, at the same time, is obviously meant to be used. Sort of like my steel-mounted WWII with its black/silver colour scheme, straight swords of Shiva, and the Devanegri characters masterfully engraved on the blade. Overly ornamented katana just don't do it for me, y'know? The HI katana would be at the far end of the spectrum...right smack in the user's hand on the battlefield, while the art swords would be at the other far end of the spectrum, sitting on a katanakake and handled only for maintenance/show.
Anyhow, that's my opinion for what it's worth.
That said, I wonder sometimes if high-end katana are actually even MEANT to be used for cutting. If you soak the tsuka in water, the wood will rot and the ito will loosen. If blood gets on your tsuka, a complete disassembly and cleaning is required. If blood or water get beneath the habaki, it will eat away at the metal, where you won't see it until you dismount the sword.
If you don't sheath the blade correctly, it will cut into the saya. If you don't UNsheath the blade correctly, it will cut through the koiguchi and into your hand. If you bump the saya against something, you stand a high chance of ruining the lacquer job. And let's not talk about the high-maintenance, high-cost polish that reveals the hamon and nie/nioi, etc!!
Of course, there's no free lunch. If a blade aspires to be a true katana, some trade-offs are required and among them is the wood-core tsuka, among other things. My preference is for a blade that requires moderate and reasonable maintenance, with a wood core tsuka, full same' wrap, silk tsuka-ito, and plain iron kodogu (metal furniture).
Basically, a plain-looking katana that understates its inherent beauty and, at the same time, is obviously meant to be used. Sort of like my steel-mounted WWII with its black/silver colour scheme, straight swords of Shiva, and the Devanegri characters masterfully engraved on the blade. Overly ornamented katana just don't do it for me, y'know? The HI katana would be at the far end of the spectrum...right smack in the user's hand on the battlefield, while the art swords would be at the other far end of the spectrum, sitting on a katanakake and handled only for maintenance/show.
Anyhow, that's my opinion for what it's worth.
