Could this be the most perfect camp knife yet?

pitdog

pitdog

Joined
Apr 13, 2007
Messages
12,294
Take a look at the Sarsquatch at the top of the pic, I borrowed the pic from mapper66 on the Busse forum( hope he don't mind ).
I thought the Chopweiler was the ultimate camp knife but this new baby looks like it could just take the title, what do ya think ?
IMG_1663.jpg
 
I have to admit that this design really caught my eye, and unlike most of the Busse family of knives it is 3/16" thick. Should handle the big knife stuff while still not pulling the belt down :)
 
tknife said:
I have to admit that this design really caught my eye, and unlike most of the Busse family of knives it is 3/16" thick. Should handle the big knife stuff while still not pulling the belt down :)
Click to expand...

Am I right in thinking you have just snagged one bro ?

It looks like one of the most usefull Busse designs to date IMO and can't wait to see the pics of them in action !!!:thumbup:
 
pitdog said:
Am I right in thinking you have just snagged one bro ?

It looks like one of the most usefull Busse designs to date IMO and can't wait to see the pics of them in action !!!:thumbup:
Click to expand...


Yeah, I couldn't help myself :o :cool:
 
Personally, I'd have to say the chopweiler looks more useful. I don't any of them, but just throwing out my opinion. The point is much better defined. I don't quite see the need for having such a wide blade, almost defeats the purpose of having it thinner. I like the rounded swell of the chop's handle as well - I can really visualize how that would help with chopping.
 
i think that the handle needs a little more butt/palm swell to hang in the hand for chopping, but that is without feeling it...and we all know that looks and feels can be entirely different...especially with only one dimension shown.
 
Awesome knives, no doubt. :thumbup:

But the perfect camp knife? :confused:

I don’t know what you guys are doing in camp, but for me, a knife like the Bark River “Canadian Camp Knife” is just about perfect. :D

The fact that mine is handled with a beautiful set of Osage Orange scales, and the fact that I purchased brand new for $130, make it that much sweeter. :cool:
 
I really like the look of this one. Perfect thickness, usable size and a good design.
 
Let me say that I think Busse makes a h*ll of a knife. I have seen what INFI steel can do to a chunk of concrete or even a steel pipe. Most of the big Busse's don't trip my trigger due handle design ect. but.............................

:eek:


I broke down and bought a Game Warden not long ago. It was mint when I got it. The first thing I noticed was the THICK edge ending in a STEEP V-grind with mutiple grind marks on the final edge.

"Well" I thought Busse sure knows how to build a knife so I just polished the grind marks out of the edge (looked like around 300 grit) until it was a mirror finish that would cleanly engage paper and slice it cleanly. I left the blade geometry and grind angle factory original. I still have office garbage can of sliced paper that proves the final v grind was sharp!!

I started carrying it in a used sheath I bought from a guy. Last Saturday I was out in the yard and trying to jerk some dead bushes out of the ground with my 4x4. The only one of my 1/2 dozen straps I could find in the barn was my oldest one with metal hooks on each end. Those straps are deathtraps so I decided to cut the hooks off and tie a loop at each end for safety.

Not only would the Game Warden not cut the strap but I could not even get the blade to engage strap deeper than the final V section of the blade. I had to saw back and forth and force the steep blade grind angle into the thick nylon to finally cut it in two.

I could not believe it. I went to the truck and retrieved my Bravo 1 and sliced the strap with almost zero effort.

Long story short the Game Warden went off to Bark River Knife and Tool for a regrind to thin the edge, convex it, and make it a cutter.


OK this is my story and it will be far to easy to say riddleofsteel does not know how to sharpen a knife......blah, blah, blah.

I am sure the HOGS will eat me alive now.

FLAME SUIT ON

My question is how does a HIGH END knife company get by making knives that have to be reworked to even make them usable?

I have since been told the steel under most of those painted surfaces is so rough that I have come to believe that its main purpose of the famous tactical paint job is to hide the "INFI dimples."

I do know that one of the best ways to keep a knife from slicing cleanly is to cut groves or ridges on the blade and/or cover the blade with crinkle coat paint.

I had my finger on the button to buy a SAR5 so many times I know the URL's of the sale threads by heart. Then I would always say to myself "I can strip the paint finish, polish the blade, get the edge thinned and convexed and contour the scales." I even had lined up the stuff and contacts I need to do just that.

Why, for a INFI steel bush knife?

Buy a knife for double or triple what most great knives sell for and spend almost that again or hours of work to make it have the features I want?

If INFI makes it worthwhile I guess that is the way to go. However, the last time I looked knives were to cut stuff not be used as a jackhammer.

I can not remember the last knife I destroyed in field use and I have dozens of users. Each to his/her own but my perfect camp knife will never have coated/painted blade, or huge finger grooves between the blade and the grip or an edge so thick my hatchet slices stuff better.

YMMV
 
Hey Pit,

It sure does look cool, but don't under-rate that handle on the chopweiler. Even without any extra additions, you can back your grip up a couple inches to the hump, and make the thing perform like a much bigger knife.

To safely do there, there is an old thread over at the swamp where someone added 2-3" of cord, with a rubber stopper. The stopper allowed them put tension against the side of the hand while hold the knife in the rearward grip. Again, performing like a much bigger knife, all due to the handle shape.

I do no see the same thing as being possible with the Sarsquatch. Althought, it might just be a brute enough to not need that.
 
riddleofsteel said:
Let me say that I think Busse makes a h*ll of a knife. I have seen what INFI steel can do to a chunk of concrete or even a steel pipe. Most of the big Busse's don't trip my trigger due handle design ect. but.............................

:eek:


I broke down and bought a Game Warden not long ago. It was mint when I got it. The first thing I noticed was the THICK edge ending in a STEEP V-grind with mutiple grind marks on the final edge.

"Well" I thought Busse sure knows how to build a knife so I just polished the grind marks out of the edge (looked like around 300 grit) until it was a mirror finish that would cleanly engage paper and slice it cleanly. I left the blade geometry and grind angle factory original. I still have office garbage can of sliced paper that proves the final v grind was sharp!!

I started carrying it in a used sheath I bought from a guy. Last Saturday I was out in the yard and trying to jerk some dead bushes out of the ground with my 4x4. The only one of my 1/2 dozen straps I could find in the barn was my oldest one with metal hooks on each end. Those straps are deathtraps so I decided to cut the hooks off and tie a loop at each end for safety.

Not only would the Game Warden not cut the strap but I could not even get the blade to engage strap deeper than the final V section of the blade. I had to saw back and forth and force the steep blade grind angle into the thick nylon to finally cut it in two.

I could not believe it. I went to the truck and retrieved my Bravo 1 and sliced the strap with almost zero effort.

Long story short the Game Warden went off to Bark River Knife and Tool for a regrind to thin the edge, convex it, and make it a cutter.


OK this is my story and it will be far to easy to say riddleofsteel does not know how to sharpen a knife......blah, blah, blah.

I am sure the HOGS will eat me alive now.

FLAME SUIT ON

My question is how does a HIGH END knife company get by making knives that have to be reworked to even make them usable?

I have since been told the steel under most of those painted surfaces is so rough that I have come to believe that its main purpose of the famous tactical paint job is to hide the "INFI dimples."

I do know that one of the best ways to keep a knife from slicing cleanly is to cut groves or ridges on the blade and/or cover the blade with crinkle coat paint.

I had my finger on the button to buy a SAR5 so many times I know the URL's of the sale threads by heart. Then I would always say to myself "I can strip the paint finish, polish the blade, get the edge thinned and convexed and contour the scales." I even had lined up the stuff and contacts I need to do just that.

Why, for a INFI steel bush knife?

Buy a knife for double or triple what most great knives sell for and spend almost that again or hours of work to make it have the features I want?

If INFI makes it worthwhile I guess that is the way to go. However, the last time I looked knives were to cut stuff not be used as a jackhammer.

I can not remember the last knife I destroyed in field use and I have dozens of users. Each to his/her own but my perfect camp knife will never have coated/painted blade, or huge finger grooves between the blade and the grip or an edge so thick my hatchet slices stuff better.

YMMV
Click to expand...
hmmm...
weird to here about the game warden, was it a fat version or something???

as far as the "painted" blade, I doun't think they are just to hide the dimples, but to prevent scratches and damage to the blade.
(I'd say corrosion resistence, but INFI is pretty corrosion resistent as is)
I don't like it on small knives, but on a knife as big as that it's probably fine and won't effect cutting as much once it wears down a little.

(and can't you request to have your busse knife come with a thin edge when you order it anyway?)

we were all just saying how it's a thin knife and it has a convex grind (hopefully busse willl start using that more) and would make a good camp knife (I baton and do light chopping alot for "camp" chores, as well as fine cutting work, so that knife looks about perfect for my needs) for all kinds of stuff.
maybe your point was that busse's don't cut that well... (which actually I could see)
well I've seen some cut pretty good from the factory (it sounds like you MAY have seen noss's test, and if you watched the beginning he said it cut pretty well BTW) and just one knife isn't enough to make a conclusion really.
it seems busse has a new standard for sharpness so hopefully this one will come with a nice edge on it.
:D
and I like choils... I like them for choking up on the blade, weather or not that's what they were intended to be used for, thats what I use them for and find them to be useful BTW.
(although alot of people hate busse's choils and huge talon holes and I can see why they would)

anyways, just throwing some other opinions out there and i do see where you are coming from... kinda
:D

throw some res-c on that and were good to go pit!
:D
 
Lest this turn into a flame war, I can say this without saying what I think about Busse knives....

As far as Busse knives go, I really like the design of this one. However it is so far removed from a design I've carried in the field, I can't say what I think about it being the best ever. I've carried larger and smaller. I've never carried a 7", and surely not one so thin. Again, as far as Busse knives go, this one is a pretty decent price if it is in fact around $280.
 
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