Council 3.5lb Classic Jersey

[FortyTwoBlades]

Snapped a few beauty shots today. These sure aren't going to be confused for boutique axes, but they've got the rough-and-tumble look of a respectable tool meant to be used. The head floats dead horizontal when the handle is laid in open palms. Some rough cosmetics with the factory grinding, but nothing a little end-user spit shining wouldn't clear up. Pretty incredible that they're able to put these out at such an economical price point. I ground in a nice smooth convex cheek on this one using the contact wheel of my belt grinder using the same pulsing forward-and-back strokes that one would use on a conventional grinding wheel--a good example of which is shown in the now-famous film footage of Emerson & Stevens before its closure. If the aluminum wedge on the handle of this one ever loosens up I'll be taking the opportunity to gussy it up a bit before rehanging it.

 

[300Six]

You might want to avoid trying to find excuses for using that classic axe pattern; your enthusiasm for oddball offshore choppers might begin to wane. Whatever; I'm impressed that you actually bought a brand new made in USA axe.
These do look to be much less refined than vintage versions and no amount of belt sander smoothing can hide that.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I like and use all sorts of axes, silly, and have frequently stated so. It's certainly not going to diminish my love of Italian axes, but I like having options at my disposal as the circumstance dictates.

Indeed, these are much less refined than vintage ones, but compared to what one of those would cost if made to the same standards today...they're a sight more affordable, and still quite effective despite the comparative lack of polish and precision. If I get around to it I know I could dress this one up to the point it'd look the part, but it'd take a bit of careful work.

 

[Whiskey_Jim]

You might want to avoid trying to find excuses for using that classic axe pattern; your enthusiasm for oddball offshore choppers might begin to wane. Whatever; I'm impressed that you actually bought a brand new made in USA axe.
These do look to be much less refined than vintage versions and no amount of belt sander smoothing can hide that.

It's all good because that's the only council tool axe he had listed I his site.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I'll be adding more in the future. I've actually been intending to carry Council for years but never got around to it until now. Other things always came up that were higher priority. Next'll be the Classic double bit and brush axes, then some of the more commonly found standbys like the boy's axe and Hudson Bays. The overall build quality is higher on the Snow & Nealleys in my opinion, but the Council line offers models S&N doesn't and at an even better price point depending on how much polish you're looking for.

 

[rjdankert]

I'll be adding more in the future. I've actually been intending to carry Council for years but never got around to it until now. Other things always came up that were higher priority. Next'll be the Classic double bit and brush axes, . . .

Not to get anyone's shorts in a knot. . .

Council Tool makes "BUSH HOOKS".

Whereas Wranglerboy uses a proper "BRUSH AXE".

Properly, of course.

Bob

 

[stevewest]

I purchased one of these early on in my foray into axes. Rough. I spent quite a bit of time with a file and sandpaper - it really needed it. The haft needed alot of thinning as well. This is a good tool once you get it tuned up. It has good steel/temper and holds an edge a long time. I do not use it all that often with the addition of the vintage axes that I have acquired.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Heeheehee. And yes, terminology for the particular tool is varied. In the past few decades they've been most commonly referred to as brush axes, but historically bush hook was the most common term seen in catalog listings. Acceptable morphs of the tool's name are essentially a grab bag of the bush/brush and hook/axe. Mix and match as you please.

 

[phantomknives]

steve, i dont know what your saying about thinning the handles because the agri-supply that's local to me carries the normal CT jersey and it has a VERY nice handle so they migh have velvicut handles per a special order but i think council handles are pretty thin by themselves

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

The handles on these are pretty darn good in the dimensions department. They could probably be taken down just a little more, but they're pretty good to go as-is.

 

[stevewest]

I like to thin down my hafts - they are more comfortable for me to use. Mine was pretty thick.

 

[Whiskey_Jim]

I buy from a handle factory and last time I was there I mentioned how thick their handles were.
The best theory I have read is that they are thick to combat breakage in an age where people don't know how to use an axe. A few bad swings in a thin handle like we all like as it breaks. Then Joe six pack blames the tool for breaking all over the internet when it was his fault.

 

[Whiskey_Jim]

Factory handles vs what I slim them down too

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

I buy from a handle factory and last time I was there I mentioned how thick their handles were.
The best theory I have read is that they are thick to combat breakage in an age where people don't know how to use an axe. A few bad swings in a thin handle like we all like as it breaks. Then Joe six pack blames the tool for breaking all over the internet when it was his fault.

It's also machine hours. They can crank 'em out faster if they leave them thicker.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

 

[Woodcraft]

The haft needed alot of thinning as well.

I have a Council classic Jersey made in 2016. The handle is thinner than the vintage handle on my 4lb Kelly perfect Jersey. ( If only just, but it is.)

 

[Hacked]

Council Tools doesn't make their own handles so it's possible that they changed suppliers or specifications over the years. I ordered a replacement boys axe handle from CT recently and while it's thin compared to a lot of what's out there, I'll still be thinning it out some before use.

 

[Park Swan]

Maybe you could convince Council to let you sell just the heads? The reason I don't buy American axes is because it's double the work, since you have to cut off the old handle and grind/file the head liberally to achieve the starting point of a vintage head. IMHO of course

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

They won't sell just the heads for liability reasons.

 

[rjdankert]

They won't sell just the heads for liability reasons.

At 1811 CST, I asked Council Tools via their Contact Us link on their web site about the availability of heads only. . .

. . .On the liability, the biggest reason we won't sell just the head is if we did we as the manufacturer could be liable technically for providing you and incomplete tool and it could be conceived that we were giving you an option to put any handle you would like in the head we made therefore possibly making the Company liable for putting a different handle in the head and we don't want to run that type of risk if it is avoidable. Sorry for the long winded reply, just wanted you to understand why we do not offer heads only. Once you take custody of the axe you can do whatever you like.

If they sell you an axe head only then they are "...giving you an option to put any handle you would like in the head we made..." and might be a liability issuse.

But if you buy an axe "...you can do whatever you like.", i.e. "...giving you an option to put any handle you would like in the head we made..." and no liability issue.

Is this liability issue the reason why you can no longer go down to the local hardware and buy an axe head? Did someone sell an axe head and get sued?

I am not trying to knock CT. They run their company as they see fit. I just wish more companies gave the option of buying just a head.


Bob