Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe Review

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rg598

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Oct 18, 2008
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The next medium size axe I want to review is the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe (manufacturer’s code 175HB28). It has proven to be an excellent tool from a company that deserves a closer look. For some of the pictures the paint has been removed from the head to provide for a better look.

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Specifications:
Manufacturer: Council Tool Co. Inc.
Axe Head Weights: 1.75 lb
Axe Length: Advertised as 28 inches; measured as 26 inches
Axe Head Material: Carbon steel, HRC 48-55 on the Rockwell scale
Handle Material: Hickory
Cost: $47.00

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This is a mid range axe, both in size and price. It is one of the few axes left that is manufactured in the United States from a company that is very responsive to the customer and offers a wide range of products.

In this review I will be comparing the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe to the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe. Here you can see the two axes next to each other.

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The handle of the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe is an inch longer than that of the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe, making it exactly 26 inches long. Even though the axe is officially advertised as being 28 inches long, a closer look at the description on the Council Tool website reveals that during the hanging process, two inches is removed from the handle.

The grain of the handle on the axe I purchased (left) is very poor. It is not the worse I have seen, but if I was planning on using this axe as my main cutting tool, I would certainly put on a new handle. There did not appear to be any polish or finish of any sort on the handle. I had to oil it before use. Other than that, the handle is very comfortable, and quite slim even when compared to that of the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe, making for a very streamlined axe.

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The head of the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe weighs 1.75 lb, making is a quarter of a pound lighter than that of the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe. It is attached to the handle using one metal wedge. At first the connection seemed flimsy to me, but through all the testing, the head remained securely in place. The head is well shaped. The cheeks are fairly thin, and the convex of the cutting edge is just a bit thicker than that of the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe. The part I don’t like about the head is the abrupt transition of the cheeks when they reach the eye. Instead of providing for a continuous curve, they almost form an angle to the eye, which would impede efficient chopping.

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The head is a Hudson Bay style, and has a very large bit, providing form more cutting surface than the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe.

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The balance of the axe is not great, but is also not too bad. Ideally the head would stay horizontal to the ground when balanced like it is in the picture. As you can see, the bit hands lower than the rest of the head, meaning the poll is too light. The balance of an axe is important when we are talking about mid or full size axes because it contributes to the accuracy of the axe.

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The axe came with no sheath.

When the axe arrived, it was not as sharp as I needed it to be. About ten minutes with the file and a sharpening stone, put a paper cutting edge on it. As I mentioned, the convex of the cutting edge was a bit thicker than that of the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe. I got the urge to thin it out. It took me another thirty minutes with the file, and fifteen minutes with the sharpening stone to create the edge I wanted. When I was done, I took it out for testing.

The performance of the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe was surprisingly good. When it came to chopping, even though the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe is a quarter of a pound lighter than the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe, it kept up with it, and even slightly outperformed it (results in the picture are after 25 swings). This is probably a result of the larger bit and slightly longer handle. Keep in mind, that if I had not thinned out the bit, the axe would not have performed as well, although it would have been quite acceptable.

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When it comes to splitting, the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe should in theory outperform the Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe because of the abrupt transition in the head of the Council Tool axe, but honestly, I was not able to see a difference. The truth is that with axes this size, you would need to split some very large logs to be able to see differences in performance. When it comes to bushcraft, logs that size would be very hard to find.

Overall, this is a very good axe, considering the price tag. It is not perfect by any means, but with some work, it can be turned into a very well performing tool. It is also light enough that the head can be used on a shorter, more portable handle. I would love to see it on a 24 inch. Council Tool also makes the same head with a 18 inch handle. I did not use it however because I have found such handles to be too short, especially because they are shortened even further in the hanging process.

There has been some talk from Council Tool that they will be releasing a “bushcraft” version of the Hudson Bay Camp Axe, which will have a non painted head, and be more highly finished. It would certainly be worth a look if the trice tag can be kept low enough.

As far as I know, the manufacturer produces additional bushcraft appropriate axes, which are too numerous to list here, but include Hudson Bay, Jersey, and Dayton patterns.

Ross
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
I have one of the shorter versions of this axe. Makes for a very light package and came with a sheath.

The grain on the handle mine came with is excellent. My gripe with the axe was in the hang of the axehead. It is actualy off center when looking down the handle to the bit. Not all that uncommon in factory hung axes as they don't spend much time on the fine points of fitting.

That handle you got should never have been put on an axe period.
 
rg598 said:
There has been some talk from Council Tool that they will be releasing a “bushcraft” version of the Hudson Bay Camp Axe, which will have a non painted head, and be more highly finished.
Click to expand...

From the Council Tool website:
"Council Tool Company is proud to introduce a new line of premium axes we call Velvicut.
...available soon: A small broad axe/hatchet. Head design similar to ship’s carpenter axe of the 1800’s...Head, handle and sheath are 100% American Made."
275BROADAX.gif


http://www.counciltool.com/DisplayCategories.asp?pg=displaycategories&category=77
 
I had a similar hatchet in the 70's but it was a plumb brand. Really liked it. My brother left it out overnight in subzero cold and shattered it when he hit it with a maul trying to split frozen wood.
 
Thanks for posting this Ross. I got mine from Terra Tech but it had sat in a dry warehouse for many years and the head ended up becoming a little loose. Council is in the process of sending me a new one, though I could have technically fixed it myself, I decided to take them up on the offer. Mine has a perfectly straight and tight grained handle, so in that dept, I guess I got lucky. I also spent a bit of time getting my head to the sharpness I like, and it is a beast of a little cutter once this is done.

My biggest curiosity was how it would perform against a Gransfors Scandi Axe, pretty much the gold standard for this sized axe. The fact that it slightly outperformed it is very significant, considering one can buy one of these for under $40 online.

One other thing I like about the Councils is that steel is very tough. I do not fear taking this thing out and using it hard in the freezing winter for fear of large chips coming out of the edge. These will take a razor's edge just like the Gransfors as well.

I'm looking forward to getting my new replacement as it became my favorite axe before the head loosened on mine. Council has a reputation for very strong handle to head junctions so I think mine is just a fluke.

PS- I would email Council Tool and tell them about that crappy grained handle and complain. They seem to be interested in garnering more of the bushcraft community's business lately so I think they'd probably re-handle your axe for free with a straight-grained handle.
 
Council Tool has a great customer service department, and they really seem to care. I’m sure that if I had made a stink about the handle, they would have done something about it.

It is important to note that the above results were after I had spent about 30 min thinning out the blade with a file so it would match that of the GB axe. It is easy enough to do, but without that, the performance would have been decreased a bit, even though still perfectly acceptable.
 
Anyone know when Council Tool's bushcraft model axe will be available? Or what style axe? Thanks.
 
Nice review Ross.
It seems to be a nice axe. Many outdoorsmen liked this pattern, Cliff Jacobson shows it in a photo in one of his books, "Camping's Top Secrets" - if I remember correctly.

Steve Tall: the Velvicut broad hatchet seems to be a Kent pattern axe.
Interestingly, similar broad hatchets had been discontinued recently by the few companies which until recently made (or contracted) them, like Plumb and also by Vaughan and Bushnell. However the Council Tool version is the one which looks like a true Kent pattern hatchet/axe.
 
I'm planning on buying this ax sometime this spring for trail clearing while backpacking. I apreciated the pictures in your review, they are better then Council Tools pictures and after seeing them I want it more and more. :)
 
Council was the ax company shown on the Modern Marvels episode on Axes. Very good episode, even for MM.

For those of you who can't see the OP's pics (in my case due to overzealous IT nazi's), here's the link to blog page with the review and pics: http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/search?q=council


BTW, the restoration of the double bit ax head will come in handy: I have an old double bit ax head I found in the NV desert over 25 years ago. I need to find it and restore it.

Thanks,

Al
 
I have this Hudson Bay axe with the 18" handle and a sheath. I was able to obtain a number of replacement handles from Council Tool for a good price so I replaced the initial one. I wanted to fill the eye solid with a wooden center wedge ( I don't like metal center wedges) and then use a metal cross-wedge. I also left the handle an 1/8" above the head for better grip like the Gransfors and Wetterlings. I also epoxied the eye before inserting the handle, to aid in gripping, to fill all voids, and to completely seal the wood.

I also thinned and polished the bit and then blued it. It takes a shaving edge, especially if you finish it with a strop or steel. I left the black paint beyond the chopping line of the bit for better rust protection. I then inpregnated the leather sheath with hot beeswax.

The Hudson Bay style allows you to choke up and get behind the lower portion of the bit for good control when fashioning things like you would with a carpenter's axe.

With these modifications, I would put this axe up against any other this size as an all-round belt axe.
 
thunderstick said:
I have this Hudson Bay axe with the 18" handle and a sheath. I was able to obtain a number of replacement handles from Council Tool for a good price so I replaced the initial one. I wanted to fill the eye solid with a wooden center wedge ( I don't like metal center wedges) and then use a metal cross-wedge. I also left the handle an 1/8" above the head for better grip like the Gransfors and Wetterlings. I also epoxied the eye before inserting the handle, to aid in gripping, to fill all voids, and to completely seal the wood.

I also thinned and polished the bit and then blued it. It takes a shaving edge, especially if you finish it with a strop or steel. I left the black paint beyond the chopping line of the bit for better rust protection. I then inpregnated the leather sheath with hot beeswax.

The Hudson Bay style allows you to choke up and get behind the lower portion of the bit for good control when fashioning things like you would with a carpenter's axe.

With these modifications, I would put this axe up against any other this size as an all-round belt axe.
Click to expand...

Thunderstick thanks for the great post. I've been thinking of doing the same thing with mine, as I just don't trust one metal aluminum wedge as compared to the Wetterlings\Gransfors with a wooden wedge along with a metal cross pin wedge. Leaving the wood above the handle is also an excellent idea as well.

Me and my lady and my stepson live up here in the mountains and heat with wood, and since the nearest gas station is a ways away we use our axes almost everyday (chainsaw doesn't always start in the cold and sometimes we run out of gas) and I've already dealt with a loose head on both a Wetterlings hatchet and Council Hudson Bay that dried out.

The Wetterlings Small Belt Axe (Wildlife hatchet with shorter handle) had just a wooden wedge only and the head came loose within just 2-3 days of use chopping kindling. I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a small metal wedge that's almost identical to what Gransfors uses and drove it crossways into the top. Been using the hatchet pretty hard for almost 2 weeks now and it seems very tight and problem free now.

My first Council Tool Hudson Bay sat in a warehouse for a couple of years when I bought it and after getting it and using for a few weeks in the dry alpine air the head also came loose. Again, the Council only had the aluminum wedge, which I think is stronger than what the Wetterlings hatchet had, but not as fail-safe as the setup you just did. Council is working on the issue for me right now as they have great customer service. I might add that I have two other other Councils- a standard 32" 3.5lb Jersey Axe and a 27" 2.25lb Boy's Axe that have been used hard for a couple of months with no problems and they also have just the aluminum wedge.

I think I might try doing what you did when I get the new Hudson Bay. It's a great axe and I really dig the Hudson Bay pattern, especially one that's made in the USA.
 
I just noticed your post. Since you are into the details I thought I might add a few more.

I always strip/sand all the finish off any any varnished/lacquered handles and then refinish using alternating coats of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and Gunstock wax. This gives a good waterproof finish which can be easily touched up and which does not wear out your bare hands. Personally I typically use a snug-fitting pair of waxed leather gloves when using an axe for any period of time as you get a better grip on the handle and don't need to worry about brush hitting the knuckles.

On the top and bottom of the handles I seal the end grain with clear lacquer nail polish. This helps to prevent any moisture from escaping the wood and loosening the handles.

In summary--a properly dried axe handle (such as by the wood stove a few days) that is hand-fitted to the axe eye, uses a fitted center wooden wedge that is epoxied wood to wood, with epoxy or gorilla glue in the eye, with a metal cross wedge, with handle protruding a bit beyond the eye, and with sealed ends should last many years without the slightest hint of loosening.

Additionally I wrap the upper handle with Hockey stick tape if I intend to do any splitting. Hockey tape adheres in subzero temps and is intended to take impacts without tearing very easily and it helps the wood to better absorb the shock. The tape can be replaced from time to time. I have had a full-size splitting axe for many years with the same handle because I use hockey tape and replace it as needed.

We heat with wood, and are hunters and outdoorsmen as well, and use our axes regularly. I don't fell full size trees with axes, so I use the 19"-28" axes more than any other size when in the woods. Full size axes and mauls/wedges are used primarily for splitting. My Husquvarna chainsaw gets the nod for felling large trees. However if we want to drop a few smaller trees, a crusier weight axe with a properly profiled and polished bit that is razor sharp will fell and limb them in short order.

I carry the smaller 12"-19" belt axes when hunting in order to fashion a blind or build a fire.

Most people have little concept of how effective a good axe is, and gawk when they see one in action. With my old Craftsman 28" Hudson Bay axe I can slice thru 2"-3" green limbs in two easy swipes (or sometimes one hard swing). A few weeks ago I was pruning out limbs on a large hardwood on one of my properties while my retired tenant watched. I cut the limbs into 8' lengths on a chopping block going thru many with one swipe--coming into the wood on an angle. He watched me and said, "I used to have a tree service and my brother is a logger in Montana and I can tell you I have never seen any axes cut like yours." I said its all about getting the right edge profile and sharpness, then using proper technique. Most axes other than Gransfors need some work to reach their full potential. The Gransfors profile is good for cutting but not as good for splitting because of the pronounced eye.

In my opinion, the Council Tool axe heads and handles are a good platform from which to start to put together a quality tool--however I just prefer to hang them myself with their components.
 
thunderstick said:
I just noticed your post. Since you are into the details I thought I might add a few more.

I always strip/sand all the finish off any any varnished/lacquered handles and then refinish using alternating coats of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and Gunstock wax. This gives a good waterproof finish which can be easily touched up and which does not wear out your bare hands. Personally I typically use a snug-fitting pair of waxed leather gloves when using an axe for any period of time as you get a better grip on the handle and don't need to worry about brush hitting the knuckles.

On the top and bottom of the handles I seal the end grain with clear lacquer nail polish. This helps to prevent any moisture from escaping the wood and loosening the handles.

In summary--a properly dried axe handle (such as by the wood stove a few days) that is hand-fitted to the axe eye, uses a fitted center wooden wedge that is epoxied wood to wood, with epoxy or gorilla glue in the eye, with a metal cross wedge, with handle protruding a bit beyond the eye, and with sealed ends should last many years without the slightest hint of loosening.

Additionally I wrap the upper handle with Hockey stick tape if I intend to do any splitting. Hockey tape adheres in subzero temps and is intended to take impacts without tearing very easily and it helps the wood to better absorb the shock. The tape can be replaced from time to time. I have had a full-size splitting axe for many years with the same handle because I use hockey tape and replace it as needed.

We heat with wood, and are hunters and outdoorsmen as well, and use our axes regularly. I don't fell full size trees with axes, so I use the 19"-28" axes more than any other size when in the woods. Full size axes and mauls/wedges are used primarily for splitting. My Husquvarna chainsaw gets the nod for felling large trees. However if we want to drop a few smaller trees, a crusier weight axe with a properly profiled and polished bit that is razor sharp will fell and limb them in short order.

I carry the smaller 12"-19" belt axes when hunting in order to fashion a blind or build a fire.

Most people have little concept of how effective a good axe is, and gawk when they see one in action. With my old Craftsman 28" Hudson Bay axe I can slice thru 2"-3" green limbs in two easy swipes (or sometimes one hard swing). A few weeks ago I was pruning out limbs on a large hardwood on one of my properties while my retired tenant watched. I cut the limbs into 8' lengths on a chopping block going thru many with one swipe--coming into the wood on an angle. He watched me and said, "I used to have a tree service and my brother is a logger in Montana and I can tell you I have never seen any axes cut like yours." I said its all about getting the right edge profile and sharpness, then using proper technique. Most axes other than Gransfors need some work to reach their full potential. The Gransfors profile is good for cutting but not as good for splitting because of the pronounced eye.

In my opinion, the Council Tool axe heads and handles are a good platform from which to start to put together a quality tool--however I just prefer to hang them myself with their components.
Click to expand...

Excellent post, thanks again for the info Thunder!
 
I have a question on balance that I've asked before but no one has answered. Why does the bit need to balance like you say with it being horizontal laid the way you have it? Knives like the kukri are good choppers because they're weighted forward of the grip line. Wouldn't that hold true with axes and wouldn't you want it to be a little bit heavy?
 
Shotgun said:
I have a question on balance that I've asked before but no one has answered. Why does the bit need to balance like you say with it being horizontal laid the way you have it? Knives like the kukri are good choppers because they're weighted forward of the grip line. Wouldn't that hold true with axes and wouldn't you want it to be a little bit heavy?
Click to expand...

There are two ways in which an axe should be balanced, according to me :). The first is the head with respect to the handle, and the second is the head itself.

The first is not a big deal. If the head is heavier than the handle, it will work just fine. In fact there is no way around it with some axes such as miner's axes where the head is heavy and the handle short. Most people tend to like the balance in case they need to do controlled work by holding the axe close to the head. That is where the point of balance will be. Keep in mind that when you hold the axe by the end of the handle, the weight will still be way in front of you.

The head balance is more important because it has an effect on accuracy. If the bit is heavier than the poll, you will get wobble in the head during a swing. With this axe, is not particularly bad, but with some other ones, you can really see the weight in the bit.

http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
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