Council Tool Woodcraft Pack Axe Review

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Mar 22, 2014
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Finally bought a pack axe, used a discount coupon from the online retailer that give me a Velvicut axe without a sheath. Hahaha

It all worked out. :) Got a sheath for the Velvicut too.


[YouTube]82N4BqjuPQY[/YouTube]


Pics and written content later when I have time.


Thanks

Shawn
 
Heres some more video content


In this video I show how I improvised a pot hanger in the field with the pack axe and a puukko. Not much talking if any.
[YouTube]bJMMJgIxWc0 [/YouTube]

Here I give my opinion on handle sizes for bushcraft axes and show the differences between them.

[YouTube]sXKGWyeFBAE [/YouTube]

In this video I compare the $130 pack axe to the $50 fiskers axe
I also have a buddy swinging in this one to give you guys a broader look.

[YouTube]Pe4UfZsvG8I [/YouTube]
 
This is what the finish looks like on woodcraft pack axes bought around mid summer fall time 2016 to now.



They polished the flats after quenching and left the scale by the eye. They then leave the oxide colors from the tempering.

It's a very rich color looks fantastic but it will wear away with use



If you still have the colors on your axe then your not using it!:p
Just teasing guys :D

Right now I am in the process of evaluating the a GB SFA to compare it to the woodcraft and the velvicut HB.

I'm excited to share with you guys soon enough.
 
Let's get a brief comparison over the Council Tool Woodcraft And the Granfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe.

Alot of us are very curious about how they compare.
Especially since they are both vying for the top spot as a the best Bushcrafting, wilderness camping tool.


Why this size of axe?

Out of all the axes I own, these are the best sizes for the long hike into the wilderness.
Not as tiring to carry as a 36" 4lbs felling axe, but also more wieldy and less clusmy for wilderness camp chores


Don't get me wrong, If I had forestry type work to do I would want the bigger tool. But otherwise I can swing faster and more times and also use it for my detailed work.

Also I'm not dropping giant trees in the field. Mostly standing dead no bigger then my thigh.


Both the GB and the CT have great balance, supreme throw. And have a great multi role capability over a longer, bigger axe or a shorter hatchet or small forest axe.

The 24-25 inch haft with the 1.9-2 lbs head on the SFA and WC is the sweet spot for this type of axe.

They Swing faster with more repeated blows then a traditional boys axe at 2.25lbs and the 28" handle, But also has more capablitiy over a small axe with a 1.5 to 2 lbs head on a 19" haft.

IMHO it's the goldly locks zone for an all purpose ,long distance,wilderness axe.



The key is in the swing, the handle is the perfect length for a non sliding technique combined with the light head weight and it's perfect for rapid fire blows on wood.

A boy's axe is just too big for this type of swinging. Its not impossible, but it's not as efficient. A sliding technique feels more natural at 24-25" length.


Let's check out the GB SFA and the CT WC
(The Hudson bay is just for reference. It's on a 19" haft so it's not a direct comparison.)

The GB is thinner

That translates to two things, better penetration in wood and Better for fine detail work but at a cost to splitting and knocking out chips during chopping, also the bit has serious sticking issues with hard swings.

I get a great notch started with the GB but it lacks the "oopf" to pop wood chips, it just bites and starts sticking once the initial notch is cut.

The CT Wins in the geometry department, the phantoms work great, and really help bust out chips with the slightly thicker geometry. It's less work and it's faster

Speed is important for my taste when wilderness camping since I like to set up camp before night fall. After dark, it becomes dangerous to swing an axe. So you only have so much time to use the most effective field tool. Making speed one important factor to many for this type of niche tool.



From thickest to thinest



The HB is much thicker and can do some serious work but suffers at finer tasks because of the thicker geometry. Lacks the bite at this thickness.

I feel the HB is better suited on a 24" haft versus the 19" in picture.


The SFA is a bigger axe the the WC in size but they are realitive in weight since the GB is so thin.


The poll is HT on the WC for striking but will still mushroom on steel wedges. The SFA does not have a flat poll and is not HT for striking metal.


The WC has a tighter hang. The SFA is hung nicely but it is not hydraulically seated on the handle which means it's more susceptible to improper hanging from the factory However the SFA is positioned better on the handle down on the shoulder.

(The gap on the SFA is not an issue)




The handle is better all around on the SFA. It looks nicer, feels nicer in hand and swings and throws great. The only complaint is that they left sides too thick and didn't taper it on the sides at the swell which causes the pinky to ride up on the hook at the bottom of the handle causing discomfort with heavy use and hard swings.

The woodcraft handle is not as attractive and doesnt have the great curve of the SFA. It had a more production feel but it gets the job done and counters the issues with the SFA with slimmer sides better taper into the swell transition and a more comfortable swell when swinging on impact

but it's simply not as nice as the SFA in looks and fondling but seems more comfortable in use once the bit strikes wood.

The Grain orientation is not great on the WC but can vary with any axe and company. I have really punished the woodcraft and have had no cracks on the handle from the hard swings


In the end, the woodcraft has a better geometry, it's more versatile and can do more jobs as far as splitting and bucking then the SFA yet still compete with the SFA in finer tasks but the SFA will be slightly better for detail work.

The SFA has better steel, the metallurgy held up better in use and was still shaving sharp. The WC holds a decent edge but lost its shaving sharp edge at the end of the day. The SFA comes with a paper cutting, hair shaving edge out of box the WC is not as sharp from the factory but is more responsive to sharpening then the SFA since the steel is softer and grinds better.

The sheath is a better design on the SFA and fits better, The WC mask has Better leather and finish but it is loose and need modification for a tighter fit.

I'd argue that the SFA is a nicer product but that the WC holds its own when put to swinging and the has more user features like the 90° spine, hardened square pole, the phantoms and the tighter hang with circle cross wedge.

Depending on the task the Woodcraft will out perform the SFA and vice Versa.

So its preference but also availablity.

If your really into axes, bushcrafting, and wilderness camping then Just get both :D

However,
The GB SFA is hard to come but and there is horrible price gouging out there. They retail for $150 and are great at that price. But I would not spend $200.
The WC is widely available and is retail at $135.




I really want to cover the Woodcraft in some more detail in my next post. Especially the 5160 steel.

Thanks guys
Shawn.
 
What are the advantages of 5160 alloyed tool?

First off 5160 is just a 1060 carbon steel base with a "pinch" of chromium added.

It's confusing as to what that does if your understanding is from a knife perspective. This is because 5160 doesn't have enough chromium to increase the wear resistance dramatically and it certainly doesn't have the 13% to make it stainless.

So we are left scratching our heads.

What's the advantage to the 5160 with the added .7-.9 chromium?

It increases the hardenability.

This is confusing for alot of guys because hardenability doesn't make it harder. Just easier to bring to full hardness.

What alot of us don't realize is that there is an inverse relationship between grain size and hardness.

We want the finest grain possible for toughness, strength, edge holding, sharpening etc but it can prevent the steel from reaching full hardness during transformation because the energy is spread more though out the finer grain and grain boundries.

We would need a faster more violent quench to fully transform the finest grain on a plain carbon steel which puts it at risk for cracks due to distortion from the rapid transformation.

We could make the grain bigger but that negatively effects performance.

So one solution is to add chromium to the steel which has a larger size then the carbon and iron atoms and finds its home in the spaces between the grain. This prevents softer structures from forming in the boundaries between the grains during the rapid cooling and helps inhibit the growth of the grain to some degree during heating.




Basically you can reduce the transformation speed, and use a slower less violent quench and also you can achieve a finer grain structure without risking cracks or soft spots.

Theoretically, the Council Tool 5160 steel should have a finer grain than other plain carbon steels of similar carbon content and more yield strength then the 4140 steel because of the carbon content.

But that all depends on what the heat treatment protocol is so this is all just thoughtful speculation about what the possibilities are for 5160 and most likely why it was chosen.

From a user standpoint , I notice slightly more edge holding in the CT Velvicuts and Woodcrafts then the regular council line versions without an increase in difficulty sharpening. But I wasn't blown away in all honesty.

There is a bigger focus on durability and ease of maintenance with Council Tool versus the Swedish axes focused more on edge performance and precision.

It's alot like a Western chef knife vs a Japanese Gyutos different focus on what attributes to enhance at cost to others.

Can't have everything unfortunately so we have to choose.
 
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Thanks bro,

I will add that I have been curious for a long time about the Velvicuts and the Woodcraft that use 5160 but I could never get a straight answer if it was worth the extra cost for the fancy more advertised steel.

I think it's a nice upgrade to have a finer grain steel but I learned the true performance is the actual bit geometries and nicer handles and hangs over the "red paint" line.

Of course you could always just buy a vintage axe head and create your own top performer but that takes alot more knowledge and experience. It can be frustrating to find a decent vintage head without price gouging from high demand due to non user collectors. Also I've been burned by clever camera angles.
In the end, if there isn't a good understanding of the details that make an axe perform, it's just more cost effective to by a nice axe all put together from Council Tool so you can begin to understand that all the subtile details add up to create great synergy and enjoyable use.

I have only had to adjust minor details on my Velvicuts and Woodcraft. Like the edges and the handle finish. Which is just apart of everyday maintenance if used heavy.

I'd say the Gransfors have even better finish to the edge and handles, out of box, but I wouldn't pay over retail for one, there is horrible price gouging. $250?! I'll pass. It's a $150 axe.

Knowing what I know now, I would prefer the Council Tool. Although the steel on the Granfors Bruks is more to my liking it's not enough to blow the Woodcraft out of the water.

I am a hardcore steel nerd but I am not blinded by it, that's only one component to many. It's all about the sum of all parts and their synergy.

If your curious which axe is more impressive to lay people, I showed both of them to friends and family and asked them to choose what was better based on no experience without telling them anything

They liked the Granfors Bruks more, it seemed more quality to them. The handle and the rustic forge look on the head got top remarks.

Thought you guys would like that little tidbit for a broader perspective.
 
Thanks for the great review. I like your taste in axes. I'd be interested to hear how the hudson bay on a 24" compares to the SFA and WC since they are all similar in weight. Would you say that the hudson bay is geared more towards splitting than chopping? This makes me want to buy a SFA...
 
Thanks bruddah,
If you want the most splitting and chopping the the Hudson bay will do that better especially on a 24" handle. It's just not as good for detail work and doesn't bite as deep as the thinner bits and edges. But man does it wreak on wood really blows out the wood chips. I love the WC though well balanced, But the Gransfors is very beautiful.

If I had to choose it would just come down to preference, ones not necessarily better just a little different in ways that suit ones style.
 
I'm also looking at a vintage Collins hudson bay axe. Should be decent steel because of the age. I'm not really sure I need to do detail work with an axe, that's what knives are for...
 
Hello Buddy,

again, a very delightful, enjoyable and also interesting axe review.
Great !!! :thumbup:

Cheers, Erik
 
Had problems right away with edge rolling
5 cuts into a down tree and axe wouldn’t bite
Edge is ridiculous
Just got the axe and First use, not sure weather to fix the edge or talk to council tool about the heat treat
Dead in the water
Don’t know how to post a pic...
 
Council has been made aware of this type of problem so contact them soon, complete with pictures. Hopefully they'll set you straight. If you have some patience you could try making the blade angle a little more obtuse and not 'knife edge'-like, seeing as it's being used as a striking/chopping tool and not a slicer/carver. Folks on this forum also enjoy viewing pictures that accompany gripes and complaints.
 
23PFMHL

22MLwPu

The rolled edge
 
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