Couple of Para questions...

[getpower]

I just recieved the Paramilitary today in black/black with a fully serrated edge. The thing that I was wondering about was that it came with a really loose pivot screw.

The thing is that if I tightened it, then the knife was too tight and wouldnt function the way I wanted it to. But when it was perfect, the screw felt a little on the loose side.

I did put blue threadlocker on the pivot screw, but I just dont know if I should be worried about the screw falling out or not. What are other people's expiriences with this?

Also, I have a sharpmaker, and like I said, the blade is serrated. So, what are other's expiriences with sharpening serrations on the sharpmaker? I know it works, but over a long period of time, can you still get the knife sharp? Or is there only a certain amount of times you can sharpen the knife, then its useless?

 

[senoBDEC]

Define "loose" - would the screw visibly move under finger pressure? Or did you have to unscrew the pivot more than 1/8-1/4 turn?

There is ONE way of dealing with it - grind down the end of the screw, so that it is shorter - get it just right and you can tighten fully and still have the tension you want.

This probably voids the warranty.

Yes, in the long run, after sharpening a knife MANY MANY times, the serrations or plain edge will be ground down or slightly mishapen (or quicker if you're a novice, like me). Reprofiling can be done, but this also removes a fair amount of metal.
But that would normally take... well... a decade or two probably. As long as you're careful, and keep a good eye on HOW to sharpen serrations (one side only at the right angle, light pressure and even movement of your whole arm with a stiff wrist, then lightly buff the other side a few times to remove the burr) and you should do fine.

 

[Josh K]

Watch the sharpmaker DVD. Sharpening serrations is just like sharpening a PE blade, only you only use the corners, not the flats.

Trick is to not go to fast, and sharpen both sides.

About the pivot screw, I'd send it back. When you tighten it, you say it wouldn't function the way you wanted to, does that mean you can't flick it open?

 

[JBE]

Also, I have a sharpmaker, and like I said, the blade is serrated. So, what are other's expiriences with sharpening serrations on the sharpmaker? I know it works, but over a long period of time, can you still get the knife sharp? Or is there only a certain amount of times you can sharpen the knife, then its useless?

I can get a fully-serrated edge shaving sharp with a Sharpmaker and have done this with many different steels so it is very possible. There will be some rounding of the tips over time but (a) it will not be as pronounced with harder steels, and (b) serrated edges do not have to be sharpened as often. Yes, you will be able to keep the knife sharp for many, many years before the serrations become worn down enough to consider them "useless."

I have a few tips for sharpening serrated edges if you're interested.

 

[getpower]

Yeah, when tightened it wouldnt "flick" open.

But you cant really loosen it with your finger.

 

[trimcut123]

Many spydercos, including the para dont flick open at first.. My first few would not do it..
My most recent D2 para is as smooth as an axis lock..
Perhaps beat on it a little.. Then rebuild it..

 

[Josh K]

My D2 para is by far the smoothest para I have. Like trimcut said, axis smoothness or better.

Try going through a lot of open close cycles to break it in, or take it apart and with (very fine!) sandpaper go over the pivot area.

 

[ThumperACC]

Yeah, when tightened it wouldnt "flick" open.

But you cant really loosen it with your finger.

My Sage was like this when new. It even had a slight grinding sensation when opening/closing. Well, after ~1000 open/close cycles it is smooth as buddah and flicks just nice with my thumbnail in the opening hole.

Open/close it many times and the detent ball wears-in and all is well. Oh and the detent is just fine, no real change there.

Mike