course benchstone - source?

E

edb

Joined
Aug 30, 2002
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There have been many discussions about reprofiling blades 'round here, and I suppose if I used the search function more effectively, I'd find the answer I'm looking for.

But, obviously, since I'm posting a new thread, I guess I haven't found what I'm looking for...


I have a Sharpmaker, which is great for touch ups. I even have the diamond rods for ripping metal off blades, but it still seems slower than what some members have described in terms of getting a smaller angle, sooner.

What I'm looking for are specific recommendations about what to use as a benchstone, to rip down that old seriously-in-need-of-sharpening blade, but not spend hours -- or, even 30 minutes, reprofiling.

I seem to recall mention of certain whetstones, etc. that were particularly effective at ripping off 90% (just a number out of the air) of the metal in a short time (like a few minutes), which would then allow you to more carefully raise and remove a burr with a Sharpmaker (for example).

Any suggestions? -- and, equally important, specific online locations to obtain such stones? I'm not interested in using water or oil, so that's a caveat. EDIT - I'm willing to *soak* a stone before use, and even keep it soaking in water in between uses - but I don't want to have to use water *while* using the stone....(such as I understand is necessary with an EdgePro system).

By the way, I do have a Gatco system with a diamond hone, which did work quickly, but wore out far too quickly, too. So, I guess diamond hones are still a possibility, but my limited experience with them thus far isn't inspiring...

Thanks!
 
Diamond coarse benchstones (DMT or EZELap) 325 grit
Silicon Carbide or Aluminum Oxide benchstones 125 & 325 grit (check out Dan's Whetstones)
Supplement these with a Razor Edge clamp for angle stability.
 
My favorite benchstone for that purpose is the DMT x-coarse. I think it fits the style of the Sharpmaker well: all it needs is a drop of water and you can even lean it against the Sharpmaker rods.

In principle any fast-cutting stone will work, such as the green Lobster stones, or the SiC stones from Norton, or a nice 220 grit waterstone will work all well.
 
Single cut mill bastard file. This will leave a finish that looks to be about 320 grit. Then you can finish with stones.
Bill
 
50 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper wrapped around a wood or mdf block. Just like mom used to make.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Single cut mill bastard file.
Click to expand...

This won't cut many very hard and very high alloy modern cutlery steels. I have many knives which are not only harder than files, but are much higher alloyed. A W1 file isn't going to do much to a M2 knife, let alone A11.

Coarse sandpaper files like Thom noted are best short term, x-coarse waterstones in the long term, you can buy really coarse waterstones in most hardware stores as axe/garden sharpeners. They are cheap and soft, and I have seen some which can rival the SiC waterstone I have in terms of speed.

If you want to go really low tech, you can do it quickly on a concrete block, this tends to maul the finish and will gauge the edge badly if you take it right up to "sharp". It works faster if you put some fine sand on it, even better if you crush the sand into the block with light taps of a hammer.

For all of this coarse honing, press as hard on the blade as you can. With the right stone you can rip a 4" blade even in something like D2 or S30V from 20 to ten degrees before the commercials are over.

-Cliff
 
Since waterstones are out I would offer this as one of the fastest cutting options in existance:

DMT Dia-Sharp D8XX 8x3x3/8 in. Diamond Plate - E-Extra Course (XX) - 120 Micron

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/T!D8.htm


Yes, that's XXC as in Extra-Extra Coarse!! :)

Be carfeul if you go there as metal can't be added back once it's removed. Don't say I didn't warn you. :P


--Dave--
 
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