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covex?

Best way would be a nice slack belt grinder. It's how I do my big jobs.

If you have time, I have done a lot with nothing but sandpaper and a dense rubber pad backing. Takes more time, but gives great edges too.
 
thanks, for now i just tried a mild convex on just a diamond hone, it worked out ok, but still would like it to go a bit higher on the blade, but it will work until i can get to the store and get some sand paper :P
 
TheGoldenWalrus said:
thanks, for now i just tried a mild convex on just a diamond hone, it worked out ok, but still would like it to go a bit higher on the blade, but it will work until i can get to the store and get some sand paper :P
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Wet/dry sandpaper (silicon carbide). 3M and Norton brands are very good.

If the blade is relatively small, like a pocket-sized folder or smallish utility fixed blade, and the steel isn't too uber-abrasion-resistant (think S30V and similar), then sandpaper on a somewhat forgiving (but still firm) backing will do it pretty easily. 220-400 grit to shape the convex, then refine it as much as you desire with higher grits. I prefer some firm leather backing on hardwood. If the blade is very small & thin, such as on a traditional pocketknife, you could likely do it by starting higher in grit; anything from 600 - 800 would work well, and 1000+ grit will begin to polish it.

Very large & thick blades will take a lot more time, if done by hand on sandpaper. Otherwise, a belt grinder would be the best option.
 
TheGoldenWalrus said:
oh yea forgot to say what the knife is :P its the Eskabar ;)
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OK. 1095 cro-van steel @56-58 RC (specs from KnifeCenter's description); it's not too abrasion-resistant, and the blade doesn't look so huge as to be really slow-going. I'd think starting with 220-400 grit would work pretty well, for starting out. Take it slow & easy, and pay close attention to the work done by each pass on the paper, so you'll get a better feel for the grit. You might try 400 grit first, and if it seems it's going too slow, then fall back to the 220 (or maybe 320). It's always easier to start with as high a grit as can get the job done in a reasonable time, so cleaning up the heavy scratches from coarser grits won't add more work.

Edit:
Also, use a Sharpie to darken the edge, so you can see where the metal's being taken off by the paper (use a good magnifier and bright light, to inspect). :)
 
ok thanks again.
so im going to try to start with i supose 320 as its a middle ground on starting grits, and work my way up from there, what would you say is a good ending grit? (not looking for anything even close to mirror polish)
 
Good advice above. I have done some knives where I started with low grit, like 60-80. I don't recommend this.

200 + is where do it now by hand.

Somethign to think about, a 1x30 belt sander disk grinder combo from Harbor Freight only cost me like 30 dollars. I only use on knives where I need to remove more metal (though I did use it on my Queen folders. That D2 is a beast by hand).
 
TheGoldenWalrus said:
ok thanks again.
so im going to try to start with i supose 320 as its a middle ground on starting grits, and work my way up from there, what would you say is a good ending grit? (not looking for anything even close to mirror polish)
Click to expand...

I'm liking anything between 400-800 grit, for putting a somewhat 'toothy' finish on carbon steel blades. Any of those grits will leave varying degrees of a satin finish, and the 800 will even begin to polish somewhat, as the paper wears/breaks in a little bit. You might begin to see an edge finish you like, by the time you've worked at 400 grit a little while. Generally speaking, burrs will be easier to clean up as you go higher in grit (burrs should reduce in size). It's up to you, where you finish. Just make sure it keeps getting sharper. ;)
 
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