CPM 3V questions...

Gabe, a couple of years ago I checked out a huge number of materials books and looked for properties of steels, what I found was that you could get large deviations among properties from one reference to the other. Many of them also come from the steel manufacturer which is of course hardly unbiased. The ratio I quoted is from Bryson's book on Tool Steels, it is the one I think is most accurate based on my experience with A2 (Reeves and
Mission).

Bailey Bradshaw :

The first is the comparison of 5160 to 3V. I know for a fact 3V will take far more abuse at a much higher (much higher to me is four or five points on the RC scale) rockwell than 5160.

Abuse of what kind, assuming you are hardening 3V to ~58 which is where its impact toughness peaks according to crucible, then I would expect you to see a lot of deformation with 5160 since you are running it at 53 HRC. It should certainly be fairly flexible at that hardness and thus I would assume the edge is quite resistance to fracture.

I define toughness as the ability to withstand abuse with little or no fracture OR deformation. If a steel deforms where others do not, I define this as more malleable.

Toughness is how much energy it takes to induce fracture, ductility or malleablity is how much a steel will bend before it rips, these are known materials terms just like hardness. In determing these points you have to exceed them. This is why I don't pay attention to claims like "I have never seen a XXX blade roll or chip", it means the maker not only never determined the failing point, they never studied the way in which it fails which can be quite smooth, or very dramatic and totalitarian.

L-6 is a better performer for me than 5160, but still falls shy of 3v. My L-6 edges tend to roll before the 3v edges.

You would expect this if you are leaving them 4-5 HRC points softer.

Anyway if you are getting better toughness in your 3V blades vs other spring or high impact tool steels the first thing I would question is how do your your 3V blades compare to those steels (L6, A8, 5160, etc.) by *other* makers, as it is rare to see those steels detracted for durability reasons.

In any case this is one of the first if not the first time I have seen a maker promoting the toughness of 3V over traditional spring and high impact tool steels which is interesting. It would be worthwhile to see some specifics on the kind of work done to examine edge durability, where did the 5160 and L6, etc. steels fail to peform and then questions can be asked such as have other makers been able pass those tests with those steels.

In recent cutting competitions, the only blades that I have witensses fail due to wrinckled or rolled edges were made from 5160.

I can give you 100 3V blades with horrible performance, would this then be an effective arguement that it is a poor steel if you have seen just one that didn't.

A differentially heat treated blade is a whole different animal. The spine of the knife may be more springy, but the blade is not necessarily tougher overall. There are so many factors at play here it is hard to make such a statement.

Depending on just how small a scale you want to look there are a jillion variable in any comparison, however you only consider the ones which are of relevant scale. A spring tempered spine increases the impact toughness and ductility of a blade massively, unless you want to argue that 3V at full hardness is tougher or more ductile than a spring tempered spring steel which is kind of extreme. Now there is still the edge comparion of course.

... bend a 4" pocket knife blade made from 3v just past 90 degrees before it broke in two. It was at rockwell 60 throughout. Had I drawn the spine with a torch, it probably wouldn't have broken at all.

These tests in general are kind of meaningless because you would not ever actually do that if prying with a blade because the danger level is too high when the blade goes much past even 20-30 degrees, plus the torque disadvantage is scuttled once you drop well below parallel so you are achieving very little for a lot of effort. Now you could argue that it is a test for ductility and therefore can be used to predict edge damage in extreme cases, but this is usually not the case because the bends are achieved with the help of extreme distal tapers, as well as highly artifical senarios like bending around molds in the vice.

You can get extreme flexibility with distal tapers and thin stock. For example I had two Ontario machetes which were that brittle they exploded on cutting hardwoods (quarter zied chunks), yet even with the pieces missing they could be bent to far past 90 degrees, the longer one could take the handle almost bent to touch off the blade and I had scored it deeply with a Dremel and when broke would show little bend and thus indicating near zero ductility inspite of a huge flex. I have seen similar performance with lots of other blades and thus I am not impressed with large flexes.

Now if you can get large bends against square vice jaws with far from optimal geometries (thick sabre ground blades from heavy stock with no taper), with a large permanent bend before breaking it would be an indication of a fairly ductile steel. You would also want a large spring back and heavy resistance during the bend at the same time to get a balanced blades as otherwise for example you could get maximum peformance by leaving it annealed.


-Cliff
 
i have one of bailey bradshaw's gent knives with a 3v blade

it has not developed one spot of stain or rust which has shocked me

i have had carbon steel and d2 blades develop stain just sitting in my desk drawer.... stored right next to the 3v knife

it has a very thin blade

it cuts very well... but alas it has been used only lightly as it is just too darn nice looking

it also has a neat damascus toothpick .... i have not stuck that one in my mouth either!!!
 
Bailey,

I went to your website, beautiful knives! Which one is the Tejas model?

BTY I didn't say the days of riding horses on the property was over. I said the days of riding off into the wilderness. Real wilderness like heading west from St. Louis in 1820s or 1830s and returning years later after having a look at the Pacific Ocean. The knives those guys carried were common carbon steel probably like our 1070 or 1080. They usually carried at least two knives, a fighter and a patch knife. They also often carried a hatchet.

Begging your pardon no offence intended but a big knife made out of L6 use for clearing brush sounds like a fancy machete to me. I find nothing wrong with those knives they can be down right useful. I have just always defined a knife as a cutting instrument (no impact) and machetes etc. as chopping instruments (high impact). I don't want to field dress a deer with an 14" bowie and I don't want to cut brush with my 4" hunter. In these days when civilization is always right around the corner you can have both and If you have both make the chopper with the weight forward like a kukri or machete and it will work better, and make the hunter out of the best steel for slicing, like 3v,and it will work better. This way you get two knives instead of one.

BTY have fun forging that 3V it has a high hot hardness and I would bet it will be a bit of work to get it to co-operate with you.

Again you make sone d*mn beautiful knives.

Tom
 
Tom, here's a pic of a carbon steel Bradshaw Tejas bowie (Bailey's pic). I have one in mind for my next knife :) I had a pic of a fancified version with damascus / snakewood / gold inlay, but can't seem to find it.

orig.jpg


Really interseting discussion on 3V here guys - particularly so for me since I have a 3V folder inbound.

Cheers,

Roger
 
Like I said those Bradshaw knives are some d*mn nice knives and if I needed one knife for everthing from skinnin' field mice to felling oaks that would be the one.

Tom
 
Tom,

No offense taken, as you are right, it is a fancy machete of sorts, and a fancy kitchen knife at camp and so on. I even have gold inlays on it....cause I can:D

The thing is, I enjoy using it for almost everything, and it has become easy to wield with time. I like hunters too, but they are so task intended, and I don't hunt all the time. I actually use my folders more around the shop, but when I need more power I use my camp knife.

Thanks for posting a picture Roger.

BTW, I did forge a blade from 3V, and it is a ton of work. Thank God for hydraulics.
 
Bailey, would you be willing to forge another 3V knife like the first one you did? Or maybe even a Tejas?

Also, what are the advantages, if any, of forging the 3V instead of stock removal? Sorry if this is an obvious answer, I don't know very much about forging.
 
I would be willing to make either knife for you.

There are not going to be any advantages to forging 3V other than conserving material. The bar I have is almost 3/4"x1 1/2"x 30". It is very red hard (retains some hardness when hot enough to forge.) It also has to be forged below it critical temperature or it can fracture. Luckily this is a pretty high temperature, so it isn't hard to reduce the forge flame and not allow it to get that hot anyway.

3V is such a fine grained steel, forging won't produce any noticeable difference in the steel. None that I could find anyway.

Let me know if you want me to squeeze one out for you.
 
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