CPM-D2 Para and Rust

R

rmc85

Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
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Prior to my question I will fully acknowledge that D2 has a whole lot of weather working against it in Florida. I'm sure the daily thunderstorms, recent 100°F days, constant 70% humidity, and my sweaty self are not helping the situation.

I already knew from reading the Forum and the little card included with the D2 Para that rust could be a problem. I have a D2 (coated) Griptilian and I've never had a rust problem with it in all the years I've had/carried it. The coating on my Grip is worn off in spots and I figured because it never rusted on those spots or on the cutting edge that the Para would be fine with minor maintenance. I was dead wrong. I have been making sure to wipe down the blade with gun oil (Rem oil, CLP, or Hoppe's) and not leave it wet or sitting in the elements.

The first time I noticed some surface rust it was on the jimping on top of the blade and inside the Spyder hole. I grabbed some oil, a steel brush, and made quick work of that surface rust. I started wondering if any of that rust was there when I got the knife. I pulled up some images I took the day I received the Para to see if any rust was on the blade.

Sure enough I could see there was already some surface rust in the Spyder hole but not on the jimping. It was no biggie because it came right off and the knife was produced 02-09 and I got it 06-04-09. I figured that 4 months sitting there would be enough time for little bit of surface rust and it came right off. No big deal.

A week later I had the same thing happen again so out came the oil and brush. This time I took the blade out of the G-10 to make sure I got the whole blade 100% clean. I was oiling the blade between the surface rust showing up but I guess it didn't help much if any at all.

Today I saw there was some pretty good surface rust the side of the blade at a spot that's under the G-10 so I had to get out the Torx set and go at it. This time there was some light pitting left on the surface of the blade. Not good!

So in less than a month I've taken the knife apart twice and had surface rust a few times between cleanings. I need to figure out some way to make this stop. I would hate to put this knife in my safe because I LOVE this blade. I use all the knives I buy and I don't want to have to watch the blade like its a 3 year old child.

Solutions...

1. Oil the blade every day (not very practical)
2. Retire my month old knife (heck no!)
3. Figure out some kind of clear coat I can put over the blade
4. Tuf Cloth? I've never used it so I dont know how well it work's. Will it be better than using oil? can I get them at Home Depot or another local store?
5. Tell me why I'm stupid and what I should do.

Please help me!!!!!!
 
I use Tuf Cloth to wipe my Para after a day of use. It is not a suitable solution if you use it around food, though. It works fine for me. Plus it comes in a re-sealable pouch.
You may still need to oil the pivot and the harder-to-get unexposed parts of the blade.
Your best bet as where to buy it is Amazon or eBay.
 
Sorry to say it, but for where you live a Pacific Salt would have been a better choice. I've not had any problems with rust on my CPM D-2 Military or Paramilitary, but I live in semi-arid area. Flitz Metal Polish a couple of times a year keeps the rust off my carbon steel blades.
 
yablanowitz said:
Sorry to say it, but for where you live a Pacific Salt would have been a better choice. I've not had any problems with rust on my CPM D-2 Military or Paramilitary, but I live in semi-arid area. Flitz Metal Polish a couple of times a year keeps the rust off my carbon steel blades.
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I'm in north central Florida so I'm not right on the coast. This is the first time I've had a rust problem like this with any of my knives. The only other time I had something like this happen is when I left a wet 1095 blade outside. I have not had any rust problems with my D2 Benchmade that has a lot of the blade coating worn off.
 
Id try tuff cloth or something such as that. I oil my blades with militec or tuff cloth and Im right on the coast of Florida and havent had any problems with any carbon steel or and of my kershaw D2 blades.
-Barry-
 
I had an experience with a D2 para like yours and flipped it in a few days. Even with me wiping it down with Tuff Cloth the D2 was lightly rusting on me and I don't want to have to put effort into maintaining an EDC knife.

I really like the forest green handles on the D2 and the concept of the steel was great on paper, but in my experience I'd rather carry S30V or some other high grade stainless. My S30V para has never rusted and holds a great edge.
 
Never had anything worse than a slight gray stain from cutting rhubarb with my D2 Millie.

Gave it a patina later and nothing at all later..

I like the gray patina as well so it is a win win situation for me:D:

IMG_6103.jpg


IMG_6096.jpg
 
If I were you I would sell it and get something stainless. I would probably be tired of worrying about rust and would get something from the salt series. You could probably afford the knife you want, and a trip to Tom Krein for around the price of the para. No Possibility of rust no matter what you do with it!
 
Every knife and firearm I purchase, new or used gets wiped down with Corrosion X (used items get a good cleaning first) first thing. It makes any future cleanups a snap and I've yet to experience any rust issues. Might be worth a try?

http://www.corrosionx.com/
 
There is a marine version of the Tuff-Cloth that may help more than the standard Tuff-Cloth, but you're still probably gonna need to wipe it down frequently, if not daily.

You might try asking this on Spyderco's company forum and see if anybody over there has any other suggestions. IIRC, some of those folks use their CPM D2 stuff in fairly wet environments.
 
dalefuller said:
You might try asking this on Spyderco's company forum and see if anybody over there has any other suggestions. IIRC, some of those folks use their CPM D2 stuff in fairly wet environments.
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Good idea. I'll do that. I'm a member over there but have never posted.
 
rmc85 said:
Good idea. I'll do that. I'm a member over there but have never posted.
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We have an awesome group over there, that will gladly answer your questions. :thumbup:
You can also use the search function there too. Good luck!:D
 
amen74 said:
We have an awesome group over there, that will gladly answer your questions. :thumbup:
You can also use the search function there too. Good luck!:D
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Lucky for me I also figured out how to use google's advanced search to only look on a specific website for something. I don't think it works a well as the forum search but it aint too shabby.
 
Put a little polish on the flats with a strop and compound. A smoother surface may resist staining better.
 
I would suggest Fluid Film. It is non-toxic as well.

Has there been any outside testing conducted to show the effectiveness of Fluid Film®?

Yes. The Department of the Navy conducted testing on maintenance products for Navy vessels and Fluid Film® was found to provide superior performance. In fact, according to the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, Philadelphia, PA where material testing took place, the difference in performance...profound...most telling result of all the testing accomplished for this project." The Naval Ammunition Depot in Pensacola Florida conducted tests to find safer products for corrosion preventatives, and Fluid Film® was found to supply superior protection in salt water environments. Furthermore, the test results found "outstanding results" in direct exposure to the outside environment, and concluded with these findings: "The results of the tests preformed indicate a superiority in Fluid Film® for long term corrosion protection. The properties of Fluid Film® help to achieve a more environmentally safe work place." Testing was also done in an outside testing facility according to Salt Spray resistance - ASTM B117 standards where Fluid Film® was tested against WD-40, CRC 3-36, Corrosion X and LPS-3. After 3 weeks exposure Fluid Film® had a total surface corrosion of 1%, while the closest competitor contained 40% surface corrosion. Two of the other competitors had achieved 100% surface corrosion during this same period, proving once again the superior quality of Fluid Film®.
 
My D2 Millie is a safe queen. I keep it in a baggie with a sachet of silica gel.

IMO you would be better off with a S30V Millie. S30V will be less of a worry in a humid environment.

If you want to use the D2, polish the blade with Flitz, and oil the pivot with Tuf-Glide.

Most important, clean the knife well after use on wet materials and dry it off.

If you use it on food, Klever-Ballistol is a safe oil to use.

But I prefer Flitz. ;)
 
A.P.F. said:
I would suggest Fluid Film. It is non-toxic as well.

Has there been any outside testing conducted to show the effectiveness of Fluid Film®?

Yes. The Department of the Navy conducted testing on maintenance products for Navy vessels and Fluid Film® was found to provide superior performance. In fact, according to the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division, Philadelphia, PA where material testing took place, the difference in performance...profound...most telling result of all the testing accomplished for this project." The Naval Ammunition Depot in Pensacola Florida conducted tests to find safer products for corrosion preventatives, and Fluid Film® was found to supply superior protection in salt water environments. Furthermore, the test results found "outstanding results" in direct exposure to the outside environment, and concluded with these findings: "The results of the tests preformed indicate a superiority in Fluid Film® for long term corrosion protection. The properties of Fluid Film® help to achieve a more environmentally safe work place." Testing was also done in an outside testing facility according to Salt Spray resistance - ASTM B117 standards where Fluid Film® was tested against WD-40, CRC 3-36, Corrosion X and LPS-3. After 3 weeks exposure Fluid Film® had a total surface corrosion of 1%, while the closest competitor contained 40% surface corrosion. Two of the other competitors had achieved 100% surface corrosion during this same period, proving once again the superior quality of Fluid Film®.
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I will looks into this. Seems like it will work very well.
 
NO worries with that one at all. In fact, it's the same one I have riding in my front pocket right now. :thumbup:
 
I'd agree with putting a patina on the blade. It should stop any rust from forming, and it puts a nice grey finish on the blade.
 
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