CPM-M4 and vinegar....

The wave is just like you said. I cut out the thumb hole so now it functions like an Emerson wave.

I don't have a problem with closing mine. Instead of trying to push my thumb into narrow area to disengage the lock I sweep the pad of my thumb across the lock or use the tip of my thumb from my off hand.
I want the knife to open fast with one hand. I'm not in as big a hurry to put it away.
 
@ Orv,

Check out older Bradley post by powernoodle. He has modded it.
Recently Cypress also added a liner lock release notch.

I personally prefer it as it is. The sharp liner can be smoothen out easily with sandpaper without changing the actual liner dimension. If you watch Gayle Bradley explaining the purpose, it's to prevent accidental unlocking (something I'd like to keep).
 
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Before I bought the GB I watched Mr. Bradley explain the design on youtube. I wanted all those qualities he explained. My only complaint is the sharp edge on the lock; which is not really a complaint considering how easy of a fix it is. I will give it a shot and post the results later.
 
I took a small diamond file and knocked down the edge on the liner-lock; just barely enough to even notice it. It's a whole lot easier on the thumb now, I really didn't think it would make as much of a difference as it did. I really don't even think it's pic worthy, but it was well worth the time.
 
SSG,
I do like the etched texture that came out on your blade. Someone previously inquired on your technique and time. I think the devil may lie in the details. Do you recall the time and temperature you used? You said you scrubbed the gunk off, but how? Even vertical strokes, horizontal? Was it a green brillow pad? Thanks. I may have to try it.
 
Yeah, sorry I should have listed all that.
1. Prepped the blade using acetone and cotton balls while wearing rubber gloves
2. I heated the vinegar in a pot until it boiled, turned it off, and transferred it to the insulated cup once it stopped boiling
3. I inserted the blade and covered the cup with a towel to hold the heat
4. The vinegar will react with the steel; it will bubble. I would watch for the reaction to slow and remove the blade
5. I would place the vinegar back on the heat while I scrubbed it with a well used green pad, no particular direction or technique
6. I cleaned with acetone before returning to the cup and vinegar

I have done two so far, one took many more times than the other. There are a lot of variables that could affect how long it takes. On the second one I did there was places which didn't want to react; almost like it had a protective finish on it. So, I would scrub those spots and leave the gunk on the others to help slow the reaction in the places which were already etched. When I was happy with the outcome I washed in water and soap, then soaked in WD40. I recommend protecting the pivot area with something, it definitely roughed the action (easy fix but preventable).
On the next one I will do a tutorial with lots of pics and more thorough explanation. I apologize for not doing it in the first place, I didn't think it would interest too many people. If there's any questions or anything else I can do to help, please don't hesitate to ask!
 
Thanks for the detail. The finish on the knife posted is nice. I do like that it is not approaching black, but looks etched as it should. The fact that it doesn't appear spotty or blurred is nice. Good job!
 
Thanks, I appreciate your input! Originally, I really was going for a more "worn" look but was pleased with the way it turned out.
 
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