CPM MagnaCut – The Next Breakthrough in Knife Steel

Larrin Larrin

Hi larrin, i got courious by your answer when you talked about 420 for a chopper like a sword or something. And i was wondering 3v is thougher than 420 right? I imagine 420 to be preferable because of easiness of sharpening and stain resistance. I don't know at what hardness swords are made so this could also be a factor.
 
PlumasDePan said:
Larrin Larrin

Hi larrin, i got courious by your answer when you talked about 420 for a chopper like a sword or something. And i was wondering 3v is thougher than 420 right? I imagine 420 to be preferable because of easiness of sharpening and stain resistance. I don't know at what hardness swords are made so this could also be a factor.
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I was curious about that, too, but didn't want to derail the thread about this amazing new steel. Swords need to absorb physical/mechanical shock loads, which can be thought of as high applied force over a short -instantaneous- amount time, resulting in a momentary huge spike of force. Shock loads also cause damaging vibrations in a structure, which should be accounted for in material notch toughness, fatigue strength, resilience, and the design of the sword itself. Stainless steel swords are notoriously easy to damage. Maybe there can be a different thread addressing this topic.

Actually, when reading Larrin's article about MagnaCut, one of my first thoughts was wondering how it would do as a stainless sword blade! :D

My GF made a great comment about MagnaCut, calling it "Perfect stoichiometry in steel," which is accurate to how Larrin described it. Stoichiometry is used in materials science and metallurgy, but perfection is rarely attained.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoichiometry


A stoichiometric amount[2] or stoichiometric ratio of a reagent is the optimum amount or ratio where, assuming that the reaction proceeds to completion:

  1. All of the reagent is consumed
  2. There is no deficiency of the reagent
  3. There is no excess of the reagent.
 
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PlumasDePan said:
Larrin Larrin

Hi larrin, i got courious by your answer when you talked about 420 for a chopper like a sword or something. And i was wondering 3v is thougher than 420 right? I imagine 420 to be preferable because of easiness of sharpening and stain resistance. I don't know at what hardness swords are made so this could also be a factor.
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I have tested 420HC and it was over 40 ft-lbs in my test. 420 is lower carbon which should mean yet higher toughness. This is exactly what I was talking about; 420 has a reputation for being cheap or bad so no one thinks it can have high toughness.
 
Buster Dawid said:
The article i read on Larrin's site last week mentions 15k lb order coming April 1, so there may be some knives avqilqble for us lubbers sooner than later..
edit: my bad, I posted prior to the info from Niagra. I plead ignorance.
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SB Specialty Metals will have some full sheets next week. We won't more have sheet ready to sell until late-July or August.
 
Larrin said:
I have tested 420HC and it was over 40 ft-lbs in my test. 420 is lower carbon which should mean yet higher toughness. This is exactly what I was talking about; 420 has a reputation for being cheap or bad so no one thinks it can have high toughness.
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I think I can jump to where this might be heading...my revolutionary mild steel swords should have outstanding toughness!
 
nsm said:
SB Specialty Metals will have some full sheets next week. We won't more have sheet ready to sell until late-July or August.
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Will you still have some available at your online store on the 1st April?
 
Richard338 said:
Yes I know, sorry, I shouldn't try to joke about mild steel with a performance-tool-steel metallurgist!
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tumblr_ntoy1jdxXg1tes1e8o1_500.gifv
 
I got a bar today. Looks relatively easy for a noob like me to tackle the HT on so I'm really excited to give it a try. 2 things I can't seem to find the answer on though. Is it recommended to be foil wrapped before it goes into the oven? Can it be spring tempered? If so at what temperature to achieve a hardness between 48 - 50? If this has already been talked about somewhere I apologize in advance and maybe I could be pointed in that direction to self educate. Thanks!
 
Signalprick said:
I got a bar today. Looks relatively easy for a noob like me to tackle the HT on so I'm really excited to give it a try. 2 things I can't seem to find the answer on though. Is it recommended to be foil wrapped before it goes into the oven? Can it be spring tempered? If so at what temperature to achieve a hardness between 48 - 50? If this has already been talked about somewhere I apologize in advance and maybe I could be pointed in that direction to self educate. Thanks!
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Holy crapola... If you're making a traditional with the MagnaCut, sign me up man! Traditional knives with high-end steel is a niche that seriously needs to be filled.
 
Fixall said:
Holy crapola... If you're making a traditional with the MagnaCut, sign me up man! Traditional knives with high-end steel is a niche that seriously needs to be filled.
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I think it can be universally accepted that Jared Oeser makes about as nice of a knife as anybody. One thing for me as a "new maker" that sticks out and is probably overlooked by the collector as they race to buy his blades is his use of different non-traditional high end steels. My goal is to make traditional knives but try to avoid the same 'ol same 'ol CPM 154 simply because it finishes up pretty. You shouldn't have to sacrifice performance for looks and I'm wanting to strike that balance and incorporate steels that perform in my knives. I've been extremely happy with A2 as my preferred tool steel now it's time to find the right stainless and this one is a very strong contender IMO. :thumbsup:
 
Signalprick said:
I got a bar today. Looks relatively easy for a noob like me to tackle the HT on so I'm really excited to give it a try. 2 things I can't seem to find the answer on though. Is it recommended to be foil wrapped before it goes into the oven? Can it be spring tempered? If so at what temperature to achieve a hardness between 48 - 50? If this has already been talked about somewhere I apologize in advance and maybe I could be pointed in that direction to self educate. Thanks!
Click to expand...
You should wrap it in foil as you should with anything austenitized over 1600F or so. To find the optimal spring temperature you will have to experiment to dial it in.
 
Signalprick said:
I think it can be universally accepted that Jared Oeser makes about as nice of a knife as anybody. One thing for me as a "new maker" that sticks out and is probably overlooked by the collector as they race to buy his blades is his use of different non-traditional high end steels.
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I can attest to his ability as a maker...

file-565.jpg Oeser 2.jpg
 
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