CPM S35-VN steel

C

Chirripa

Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
61
G'day all,
I have a piece of the above steel and I have not used it before. Are there any particular things to consider, trials to avoid or curses to invoke in using this steel.
My previous experience has been with RWL-34 steel.
Any help much appreciated.
 
I've been using it for a few months now. Probably completed 7-8 knives with it, it has great edge retention. I grind my bevels after HT so I just make sure I keep it cool. Other than that, it seems to finish like any other stainless blade steel. It does like a sub-zero temper; I use LN but apparently it just needs to go to <0° F for a couple hours. Doesn't get as sharp as say AEB-L but I seem to be able to get it to a 2000grit edge without any trouble.

Bob
 
I use cpm-35vn do all of my grinding pre heat treat and have not had a problem yet. plate quenching seems to keep all my blades straight so far. as for the sub zero i use dry ice as recommended by crucible and get really sharp edges and no chipping or rolling at a 20 degree angle. the most confusing part for me was when to add the sub zero, before temper or after a snap temper. on the advise of a couple others i chose before any temper, to go from the quench plates right into the dry ice and have had no issues with that. hope this helps some.

ryan
 
I use a LOT of CPM-S35VN.

Obviously, drill and chamfer all holes before HT.
If the blade has a stick tang, remember to taper it and square the shoulders before HT.
CPM-S35VN is tough to hand finish, but finishes nicely with a grinder. The final finish can be done by hand if desired, but many makers prefer a simple Scotch-Brite belt finish. I don't like this steel at a mirror polish, but you can get one on it.

For the blades made out of .090-.100" stock, I do one of two things:
Pre-grind the bevels to a .020" edge and leave the bevels at 120 grit...then do all the rest of the grinding after HT. ( I do this with "user" kitchen knives)
or
Grind and finish to 400 grit and do all the details. The edge is taken to .010-.015". Then drop back to 220 grit after HT and take to 400-800 grit final finish.( I do this for knives that I will put a finer finish on)


On most of my knives in this steel, I use .060" stock, and only profile the blade before HT. Then I grind the bevels afterward with 120 and 220 grit blue zirc belts. Just dunk in water often to keep the edge cool.
 
I use a LOT of CPM-S35VN.

Obviously, drill and chamfer all holes before HT.
If the blade has a stick tang, remember to taper it and square the shoulders before HT.
CPM-S35VN is tough to hand finish, but finishes nicely with a grinder. The final finish can be done by hand if desired, but many makers prefer a simple Scotch-Brite belt finish. I don't like this steel at a mirror polish, but you can get one on it.

For the blades made out of .090-.100" stock, I do one of two things:
Pre-grind the bevels to a .020" edge and leave the bevels at 120 grit...then do all the rest of the grinding after HT. ( I do this with "user" kitchen knives)
or
Grind and finish to 400 grit and do all the details. The edge is taken to .010-.015". Then drop back to 220 grit after HT and take to 400-800 grit final finish.( I do this for knives that I will put a finer finish on)


On most of my knives in this steel, I use .060" stock, and only profile the blade before HT. Then I grind the bevels afterward with 120 and 220 grit blue zirc belts. Just dunk in water often to keep the edge cool.
 
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