Right now the available stock for CPM-15V is pretty thick, I have discussed getting a blade made out of it with Phil Wilson and his responce was positive and he will try to get some thinner stock later on this year. Nothing firm on the date, but something to look forward to long term.
I have a blade in CPM-10V from Phil (<a href="http://www.physics.mun.ca:80/~sstamp/knives/utility_hunter_cpm_10V.html">reference page</a>) and it performance is very high regarding low stress cutting (slicing and push cuts). Its edge retention during such is the highest I have seen, it is far above D2 at the same RC (62) for example.
The only real concerns about it are the low corrosion resistance and toughness. Phil has had bars of 10V rust just sitting in the shop. I have not have a problem with it, but do use Marine Tuf-Cloth on a regular basis. Toughness is another story, I don't think I would get a large bowie out of 10V but have not had any problems with chipping on my blade.
Of course this is relative, what I consider an adequate stress level you might not. Some of the things I have done with the 10V and saw no chipping were : sliced strips off of a mild steel bar, cut up old sneakers, and even sliced about 30' of old carpet. The bevel on the 10V blade is about 15 degrees and the edge is .01" thick behind the edge.
The edge had rolled after slicing up the steel bar as I was pressing fairly hard, similar on the carpet I noticed some areas had dented/rolled and were reflecting. I have a D2 blade (62 RC, custom, cryo) and it chipped during the sneaker cutting. I also have a 420V blade from Phil (59 RC) and it chipped during the carpet cutting.
I did manage to chip out the 10V blade, but it was intentional. I was trying to see what the limits were so as to give Phil some data to use in an extrapolation of the behavior of 15 V (and I was curious which is enough anyway). I started off my slicing up desk staples in 1/8" ridged cardboard on a piece of pine but this was doing nothing to the edge. I was however using controlled cuts and smoothly cutting the staples in half. I didn't think this was a realistic stress so I took some more cardboard, put rows of 5 staples in them and basically pulled the blade hard across them with the cardboard not being supported on anything.
This did chip out the edge at the visible level, it also chipped the D2 and 420V blade. I don't think it was the hardness of the staple but rather since they were getting ripped out of the cardboard and not being cut, the edge was being twisted/snapped violently just after impact. If the bevel was thickened I don't think it would be a problem. However I can't think of a situation where I would actually do that in normal use and leave the bevels acute to get the higher cutting performance.