CPM154 question for Stacy

D

drysideshooter

Joined
Dec 6, 2011
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Stacy, in a few year old post you said you like to take CPM154 to an almost sharp edge prior to heat treating. Is that still your advice? If so, do you have any problems with distortion of the cutting edge? How thin would you recommend taking it if working with .103" material?

CPM154 is spendy enough that I plan to send blades to Peters for professional heat treating and cryo.
 
I take all my stainless steels thicker than .100" ( CPM154, S35VN, S90, AEBL) to a near edge before HT. About .010" is good. After HT and clean up grinds, that is near a zero edge and ready for a secondary in sharpening.

With these tough and hard steels, any post HT grinding that is unnecessary is a good thing to avoid.

The exception is for my thin fillet knives. I just profile them and sometimes add the distal taper. I grind the entire bevel after HT. They are only .060" thick stock, so there isn't much grinding to do after HT. I usually do the same with .090" stock.
 
I assume you are plate quenching the blades while still in the foil pouch. With a significant portion of the blade, as a result of the grind, not in contact/supported by the quench plates, how do you avoid warp?

Thanks

-Kurt
 
In plate quenching stainless blades, warp should be a very minor issue. The amount possible is a very small amount, and the blade should be cooling pretty evenly. Any minute warp that forms can easily be corrected during the second temper.

Having the blades done by Peter's takes this out of the equation, as they come back from Brad dead straight and properly hardened ( and individually hardness tested).
 
Peter's doesn't have AEB-L listed under what they heat treat but I have to imagine that they would. Anyone send them some AEB-L to HT?
 
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