CPM3v tempering question?

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May 1, 2016
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Hey guys I am going to apologize in a advance for asking what might be a stupid question. I was advised by a fellow knife maker that I have to remove the stainless steel wrap when tempering. Which ruins the 400 grit finish I put on before heat treat and leaves me with alot of scale. Is there anyway I could leave this wrap on for a 1000°temper?
 
Do you have access to a LN dewar? if so, you might want to look at doing the low temperature temper for a variety of reasons.
Hey guys I am going to apologize in a advance for asking what might be a stupid question. I was advised by a fellow knife maker that I have to remove the stainless steel wrap when tempering. Which ruins the 400 grit finish I put on before heat treat and leaves me with alot of scale. Is there anyway I could leave this wrap on for a 1000°temper?
 
You should not be developing any scale whether you use the low temper or the 1000F temper. Some discoloration yes, but not scale.
 
Do you have access to a LN dewar? if so, you might want to look at doing the low temperature temper for a variety of reasons.
LN is something I definitely want to get into. However I don't not have the funds at the moment to get a Dewar. Another thing I am having issues with is locating LN. Where I live in NY there is not many distributors.
 
You should not be developing any scale whether you use the low temper or the 1000F temper. Some discoloration yes, but not scale.
I might of miss spoke. I get a deep blue color after temper. The knife is finished at 400 grit before heat treatment. After temper a brand new 400 grit belt would not take off the coloration easy. I have to start at 80 and work my up. So the advice given to me about removing the stainless steel wrap at temper was correct? The the wrap could alter the temperature in the tempering cyc
I am used to working with cpm154 after a triple temper with no wrap it is a dream to finish
 
3V is going to be harder to refinish than cpm154 anyway I believe.

I've been heat treating and tempering Z-Wear at 1000F and haven't found that to be much work to refinish after tempering unwrapped. They're pretty close to each other in abrasion resistance. What kind of paper are you using?

The other thing is I don't know why the reason you shouldn't temper in the foil. I'm not saying there isn't one, just that I personally don't know and am curious. I haven't been water quenching Z-Wear after the temper like I would with say 1095 from a 400F temper. And if you're not water quenching I don't know why you couldn't just leave it wrapped.
 
3V is going to be harder to refinish than cpm154 anyway I believe.

I've been heat treating and tempering Z-Wear at 1000F and haven't found that to be much work to refinish after tempering unwrapped. They're pretty close to each other in abrasion resistance. What kind of paper are you using?

The other thing is I don't know why the reason you shouldn't temper in the foil. I'm not saying there isn't one, just that I personally don't know and am curious. I haven't been water quenching Z-Wear after the temper like I would with say 1095 from a 400F temper. And if you're not water quenching I don't know why you couldn't just leave it wrapped.

Thank you for the replies. I am using combat abrasive belts on a 2x72 esteem grinder which I find pretty good for the bulk of what I do. It is not impossible as I completed multiple knives in 3v like this. It is just exhausting to get all the belt scratches out to 400 grit to just do it all over again after heat treatment 😪. I guess I will do a test with the wrap and see what happens. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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