cpm3v versus infi

[sodak]

The steel in my mower blade doesn't care that I live in rocky soil or that I 'sharpen' it with a carbide scraper, but it'd make for a worse than lousy chef knife steel even if I was using it to cut lemongrass.

You're supposed to sharpen lawn mower blades? I just run them over my yard after the aerating, I figure all those little plugs should be good for high speed abrasion! Maybe that's why my lawn looks like shag carpeting... Now I'm afraid to look at the blade...

 

[nozh2002]

Maybe because the steels which are great in some applications are less than great in others.

My most used knives on the cutting board use Aogami Super and everything else bugs me unless bones need to be cut. Aogami Super; at least used near full hardness as in kitchen cutlery; would be a huge mistake outdoors. The steel in my mower blade doesn't care that I live in rocky soil or that I 'sharpen' it with a carbide scraper, but it'd make for a worse than lousy chef knife steel even if I was using it to cut lemongrass.

I remember that link, Jerry! Another Jerry brought it to my attention. Not the one here; the guy who lights thermit charges to make his own steel.

Is it any difference between Aogami and Aogami Super?

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[thombrogan]

You're supposed to sharpen lawn mower blades?

No idea. But it was something else to sharpen.

Is it any difference between Aogami and Aogami Super?

Super is one of the three grades: 2, 1, and Super. 2 and 1 also have the subgrades 2a, 2b, 1a, and 1b. Here's a list of YSS steels from Paragoncode.com:

http://www.paragoncode.com/temp/YSS_HCC_spec.pdf

 

[fishface5]

I loves me some INFI, but the limitation in designs available makes me seek out CPM3V as well. a small 3/16" 3V machete = Suhwheeeet!

 

[Kohai999]

Super is one of the three grades: 2, 1, and Super. 2 and 1 also have the subgrades 2a, 2b, 1a, and 1b. Here's a list of YSS steels from Paragoncode.com:

http://www.paragoncode.com/temp/YSS_HCC_spec.pdf

Big ThomBrogan,

Thanks for to providing superior miniature list of metal information.

You are hero of all who destroy language and desemenate askew information gladly.

Regards Best and spasbi,

stEVEN GarSSon

 

[James_Terrio]

You're supposed to sharpen lawn mower blades? Now I'm afraid to look at the blade...

Yup! It really does make a difference. I worked for the Park Dept. one summer... we swapped out blades every day. The maintenance guy would touch them up each morning. Not a razor edge, just a single bevel. BTW, the flat side faces down

James, I'd use 1084 for my own blades but boy there are people on the other side of my table that think they need some super-steel (though they rarely if ever use my blades). Last show I had a guy want a sword over RC60, and most still want unbreakable. Oh and there is the issue of not being able to buy steel here. If I have to pay major shipping and brokerage fees I don't mind paying extra for a more marketable steel.

I definitely see your points there.

 

[leatherman]

I like them both! Neither will disappoint.

But,

I tend to fall for the design of the knife before I even know the steel.

 

[thombrogan]

You are hero of all who destroy language and desemenate askew information gladly.

For this, I put GibsonFan on ignore!

Sorry, James.

 

[r. stephen newberry]

Lots and lots of talk-talk, but no specifics on how to heat-treat 3V. Does anyone have any real hard, specific, factual INFORMATION?

 

[Kohai999]

Lots and lots of talk-talk, but no specifics on how to heat-treat 3V. Does anyone have any real hard, specific, factual INFORMATION?

Did you not see Mr. Jerry Hossum's post on page 2?

Anyway, for your sourness, have a candy(from Crucible's website):

Hardening

Preheat: 1450-1550F

Austenitize: 1875-2050°F (1025-1120°C), hold time (at temperature) 20-45 minutes.
Quench: Air or positive pressure quench (2 bar min) to below 125°F (50°C); or salt or interrupted oil quench to about 1000°F (540°), then air cool to below 125°F (50°C). Salt bath heat treatment will ensure maximum attainable toughness for a given hardening treatment.

Temper: Three times at 1000-1050°F (540-550°C), 2 hours minimum each time.

Size change: +0.03/0.05 %

Recommended heat treating for the best combination of toughness and wear resistance:
Austenitize 1950°F (1065°C), hold 30/45 minutes, temper 3 times at 1000°F (540°C), aim hardness 58-60 HRC. The higher austenitizing temperatures can be used to obtain higher hardness, at a slight decrease in impact resistance. The lower austenitizing temperatures provide the best impact toughness.

Keep an eye on this one Big ThomBrogan, he might need "gentleing"

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson