CQC-7 grind fix/restoration!

Lycosa said:
Josh! Did you read my post??!! :D
I have come to understand the secondary edge bevel but... if I want to go with a zero grind, I'll contact you. danks!
rolf
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I did I'm just messing w/ you lol

lonestar1979 said:
Nice regrind,what Im more interested in is how well it performs,besides cutting paper.Wish someone would test a knife like this and post it online.
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I've used reground knives for several years now and I use my knives hard, there's no comparison to how much better most knives will cut. You just have to tailor the grind to the user. Ideally you want it as thin as possible (thin = cuts better) without going so thin to compromise the blade strength or toughness for it's intended uses. For example... I have ground several Busse's because they are overly and unnecessarily thick which hinders the penetration when chopping. Once thinned down they will function much much better while having no issues w/ strength or toughness.

You do have to be careful not to go too thin or bad things can happen, I have become more conservative over the years as I live and learn what's good and what's bad =)
 
Well just got my 7 out of he mailbox and have to say this thing is amazing. Josh really went above any expectations I had on fixing the edge. All I was originally looking for was to have the recurve taken out of the blade and to have the tip corrected. Josh recommended I go with a zero grind to improve its sliciness. I was a little unsure as I use my knives for all manner of stupid prying tasks but I went with Josh's higher level of experience in eds geometry. He managed to leave the thickness at the spine while greatly increasing the cutting performance.
PS: The edge was already screwed up like that when I purchased it. I may do stupid things with my knives but I know my sharpening limitations.[emoji2]
 
STAINLESS90 said:
I was a little unsure as I use my knives for all manner of stupid prying tasks
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Would love to see some pics of stuff cut up and some use if you have time! :thumbup: feedback on performance is great because it lets me know if I need to change anything up or dial it in more.

I know you didn't mess that edge up, I hope I didn't imply that above =) And for the record it isn't quite zeroed, it does have a small bevel :D
 
I know its just fold prep but the last picture shows how well it slices. With patience I can get it thin enough to read print. it even push cuts nicely (even if it's something I never really do).
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I'll post more pictures whenever I get a chance.
 
STAINLESS90 said:
I know its just fold prep but the last picture shows how well it slices. With patience I can get it thin enough to read print. it even push cuts nicely (even if it's something I never really do).
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I'll post more pictures whenever I get a chance.
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Seems to be working out nicely. It's 10x better looking that's for sure.
 
Looking good! Thanks for the pics 😊
 
How are you supposed to maintain a zero grind? Are you supposed to sharpen the whole bevel just like you would do with a scandi? Otherwise, as soon as you touch a stone, you will be putting a secondary bevel on it... be it V shaped or convex. Other than that, great job on that blade, looks like a delicate cutting tool now instead of a prybar!
 
Strop the edge or use a buffer or a stone but the whole angle must be hit the stone.
 
Mikel_24 said:
How are you supposed to maintain a zero grind? Are you supposed to sharpen the whole bevel just like you would do with a scandi? Otherwise, as soon as you touch a stone, you will be putting a secondary bevel on it... be it V shaped or convex. Other than that, great job on that blade, looks like a delicate cutting tool now instead of a prybar!
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Well the blade pictured isn't actually a zero grind, it has a secondary bevel :)

Rolf has it correct... stropping. You can sharpen it w/ a stone but it will result in scratches and your bevel not looking 'clean' anymore. So everyone I know who has customs that are zeroed strop them for maintenance.

But personally, and this is just me, I would apply a secondary bevel at a low angle (because I dislike a stropped edge) and once it widened up to an unsatisfactory state I would regrind it back to zero. By 'secondary bevel' I mean a micro-bevel - hardly visible to the naked eye - with a ceramic honing rod or spyderco rod. You can maintain for a LONG time w/ only light touch ups on the ceramic rod and without the bevel widening up hardly at all.
 
Mikel_24 said:
How are you supposed to maintain a zero grind? Are you supposed to sharpen the whole bevel just like you would do with a scandi? Otherwise, as soon as you touch a stone, you will be putting a secondary bevel on it... be it V shaped or convex. Other than that, great job on that blade, looks like a delicate cutting tool now instead of a prybar!
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I strop the edge with fiber optic polishing film, Don't know if that's the best way but it's pretty cheap and keeps the edge crazy sharp. Also I can assure you it is definitely not delicate, still a tank of a knife.:thumbup:
 
Your a knife grinding super hero. I wish I had something to send you! Just because.
 
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