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CQC7, chisel edge and thumb disc

H

hvas

Joined
Sep 2, 2000
Messages
25
Hello,

I'm new to this list and would like some of your opinions about the Emerson CQC7. I have recently become more involved with the knife down at the dojo and have decided to invest in a knife to carry around. The Emerson struck me as very practical, but it had two issues; the thumb disc and "chisel ground edge".

What is the general consensus on the chisel edge? The training I have in the knife relies more on slashing than stabbing, and when I thought about a chisel blade as opposed to a regular blade doing this, it seems like the only thing a chisel blade accomplishes is an effective blade offset angle. That is to say, only sharpening one edge makes the exact same profile shape as a regualr blade, only rotated by X degrees. This (purely from speculation) seems like it would give you an advantage slashing one way, and a disadvantage slashing the other, since the offset would make you cut at a shallow angle when the ground edge is acute to the cutting surface, and cut at an angle closer to 90 degrees when obtuse from the surface. It would also mean that you can never dedicate %100 of the force from your arm to slashing work, since a fraction will always be converted into a moment (torque), around the axis of the blade. Does anyone have an opinion on this?

Also, in every review I read of the CQC7, they complaned about that thumb disc being improperly placed. Is it so much of a big deal? How annoying is it? Does it make it impossible to open the blade withg a fast flick motion?

Any help would be appriciated,

hvas
 
I'll let others with more formal martial arts training tackle the first question, but as to the thumb disc issue here are my thoughts.
The disk on my C7 is perfectly placed, and works as intended. Deploying the blade using the disc is simple and effortless. The C7 also can be "flipped" open with ease, however--it is my personal opinion that opening any liner-lock with a wrist snap is detrimental to the locking mechanism, increasing wear on the lock-to-blade tang surface mating areas.
-Paul
 
Welcome to the mad house.
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Any folder - especially the QCQ7 - is going to cost you some epidermis while practicing for that perfect quick draw-and-open smooth motion...as the thumb comes in contact with the surface of the blade, and assuming the knife is sharp enough - and it should - then skin and blood come off - that’s just the way it is...

For quick and positive deployment - the spyder hole is the best - IMHO.

The disc is harder to catch then the hole and is more prone to slipping while very wet or sweaty.

But - as much as I like their opening mechanism – I don’t think Spyderco’s liner locks are the best.

My impression is that Benchmade makes the best production liner locks - hence - get the AFCK!

Make sure you get both right and left models… so you have one on each side.

 
Blilious, I had a CQC-7B, plain edge and black-T coated for about 2 weeks before a friend bought it from me. I never cut myself accidently with it while practicing openings. It was sharp enough to shave as well. As far as quick openings go, I found that the handle is a little too blocky compared to something such as the BM 910 and so your thumb will "bump" into the front of the handle and slow the opening down. If they rounded out the front of the handle more, it would be quicker. Hope that made sense.
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Chang the Asian Janitorial Apparatus
 
Hmm.

How about this then: My criteria for a flder has been: A tanto blade, with a good steep angle to the secondary edge (no pointypointy tips for utility purposes.. makes slashing hard), good grippability when wet, ability to quickdraw, no blade length over 4", and a budget of about $150. Can you guys reccomend anything? Didn't the Benchmade clone of the Emerson have a more obtuse secondary edge angle?

My second choice for blades was Microtech's SOCOM. Expensive, but ergonomically it's great (I've held one). The only bad thing is that their tanto blade might as well not be a tanto. Its more like a kitchen knife with an angle on it.

hvas
 
I still not quite understand why u want a tanto for slashing, i'll take a civilian anyday for slashing vs CQC7. To fit ur requirement, check out Spyderco Merlin/Harpy, both have the deadly hawkbeak blade, excellent for slashing yet no problem on some utility works.

As for the SOCOM tanto, there's a reason behind the design, and it actually makes it a better slasher. Check out the blade geometry article in faq: http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqbladegeo4.shtml

I quote "First, for point control, the point is clipped slightly and the blade meets the handle at an angle -- both of these things bring the point in-line for control. To make the point a better piercer, the front bevel is at a much smaller angle to the point than is normally seen. The normally straight edge is slightly curved, and combined with the low-angle front edge, the secondary point ends up not very sharp. So this is a tanto with a bit of a belly, and combined with the blade/handle angle, functions well as a slasher/slicer. Lastly, Microtech ground in false edge bevels on the spine, which disappear near the point. This leaves the point full width for strength, but removes some weight (and adds good looks) along the spine."

Hope this helps.
 
Why a Tanto?

Leverage, and angles. A foreward-hooking blade, when slashing, will tend to drag, catching, and force you to either cut things to continue moving, or shallow the cut to a scratch. A regularly shaped blade.. I think you called it 'clip point' is the exact opposite; its going to act partially like a hydroplane and will not apply optimal force to your cutting surface, however it is very forgiving and won't catch or slow you down all that much. A tanto is a good compromise. You want a tanto to have enough of a point to stab someone, but not so much that it begins to drag when slashing (A prominent tip means that a larger fraction of the cut will be made ONLY by that blade tip, causing bad leverage, wasted energy, and worst of all it takes more SPACE to make the cut, and more delay is required from the point where I begin cutting to the point where I end cutting. You want a nice compromise... A tip-less blade with a 90o angle for the secondary edge would be great for slashing, but horrible for stabbing... and slahsing with a rapier is far from optimal.)

Other reasons are less physical... I train with dummy tantos. No belly makes them easier to sharpen, and I'm thinking of taking said blade to a laser engraver for sharpening. Anyone else ever done this?

hvas
 
While i agree that the forward-hooking blade may tend to catch on hard materials like thick clothing, but the hooking blade definitly has more penetration power on the tip than the tanto. Forward-hooking blade has an acute angle tip while tanto has an obtuse 2nd angle. When slashing, the more acute the point and the less contacting surface area w/ the material, the easier to penetrate. Go back to the beginning about catching on thick clothing. Tanto may not catch on the clothing, but it won't do much damage slashing against heavy clothing neither. The best solution under this circumstance is to stab, so i do agree tanto is more balance between slashing and stabbing, but just slashing alone, ther's no better blade shape than forward-hooked blade.

[This message has been edited by SharpEdge (edited 09-05-2000).]
 
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