CQD Blade play

I

Investigator168

Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Messages
49
I have just received my MOD CQD LE model and it was very nice. There is a slight blade play problem which I noticed yesterday. After the blade is completely open there are some up and down movement on the blade itself. There is no movement from side to side but looks like the pivot tension screw also has some play. Should I just tighten it up or send it back to MOD? Their warranty stated that any disassembly will void the warranty! Should I take the tension screw out and put some locktite on it to assure the screw will not come loose?
Please help!
 
I can't imagine any manufacturer voiding a warranty for something as basic as tightening a pivot screw. Go for it. I think that will help the problem. If you use Loctite, clean the threads completely and just use a bit of the stuff. I put it on a toothpick and then apply a little to the threads.

Good luck with the CQD.:)
 
Verticle blade play sounds like a problem with the stop pin to me. I would send it back. Given the cost of these knives, there is no excuse for vertical blade play.
 
Gee you got you fixed up with a leather sheath after the kydex scratched and now this. I would send it back. You said this is the LE model. Does that mean the special edition, with no writing on it, and the top edge of the blade sharpened, or is it the auto model? Either way, I would send it back for them to look at. Neither of mine move at all in any direction. Vertical play is usually not dialed out by adding tension. They have first class customer service. Use it. :D
 
You are right about the knife! I have not received the leather sheath yet but they have told me that it is on the way. I went to Sears and got a T-10 Torx screwdriver and tightened the pivot screw to the max, that stop most of the blade play. There is still a very slight vertical movement when I used my fingers to move the blade in a vertival position. I am just concern because I only have that knife for 2 weeks and all I did is play around opening and closing the blade like I did to any other knives but seems that the flick open method had loosen up the pivot screw. That mean I have to carry the Torx driver with me at all time??!! What do you think of applying locktite on the tension screw?

Any suggestion on the method of opening this knife so it will not come loose again? I thought this is a durable knife and my CQC7 never have that problem.
 
Any time I tighten a pivot screw I use the blue releasable Loctite. Otherwise you *will* have to carry the torx driver around. Once I've Loctited the screw I never have had to worry about my pivot screws. Make sure it is the blue releasable type or you can't get it back off again if you need to.

Jim
 
I've had two of these knives and neither had any blade play.

I had some minor problems with another MOD knife and emailed them. They suggested I send it too them and I got it back in less than a week with the problems all taken care of.

Email them or call them.
 
Thanks for all the helpful info. The knife is presently with the USPS on her way back to MOD. I spoke with MOD's warranty service this morning and that was their instruction: send it back and we will take care of it. That was very nice but they did questioned me concerning my methods of opening this CQD. I have email them prioe to this telling MOD that I open my knife with the thumb stud and the blade will be flick to a full position. On an emergency situation I will open it from closed to open with the wrist flick, but only on extream situation. I do not abuse my knife,especially a $300 plus one!

The question here is what method am I allow to open this knife? If this knife is made for special operation, will a few flick from the wrist actually damage the lock? MOD also make auto knives, I will think the auto spring will snap the blade open in a much greater force than my wrist. Finally, this is the first knife (over $300) that I bought that carry a restriction on how to open the blade. Any suggestion out there? I am not complaining about MOD, the knife is great but what method should I use to open it in a timely manner without damaging the locking system? I am open to all suggestions.
 
All the wrist flicking really does not open it any faster than just using the thumb stud. Just makes you feel cool :-) What might have happened is that they forgot to use lock tight on the pivot at the factory. I do not think you actually caused the problem. A thousand flicks maybe, but Flicking it open should not have hurt anything in the short term. But as a habit its a bad one. I just use the thumb stud. Once you get the sheath, you can carry it open if you really think you need it that fast. Good luck.
 
I agree with Mike. I'm not a big fan of repeated, hard flicking. It really doesn't prove anything and will, over a long term, cause pivot/stop pin problems. This sometimes generates some vigorous debate, but I always go back to my blade show parameters: Many makers have signs on their tables saying: Please do not flick open blades. They know what they'e talking about.

Best of luck with the CQD. I think you'll find that the MOD service is excellent.
 
I am sending my recently aquired Hornet back today, for the vertical blade play as well. I thought opening and closing it a few million times would help the Micro-lock seat better, but it didn't make any difference.
 
Well, I thank all of you for the helpful info, and if flicking is bad for the knife I just won't do it any more. The question I am raising is that I only have the knife for 1 week before the pivot screw came loose and even after I tightened the screw there is still some blade play. So there has to be the problem with the stop or the locking system. I don't think lock tite will make any difference because I tightened it to the max already!

You are correct about the MOD service, they are very nice. I have carry many BM knives and had flicked them a thousand times but the blade and lock stay the same as day one! I must have gotten a lemon then!
 
Originally posted by Investigator168
and if flicking is bad for the knife I just won't do it any more.
Click to expand...

Well, then, you have more willpower than me Sir! I have a CQD and the BEST part about it is the ENORMOUS THWACK it makes when I flick it open or flick it CLOSED! Yes, that's right, you can hold the plunge lock down and flick it closed! Oh, and you can also flick it into reverse grip (using Michael Janich's "linear" openining) very easily because of the handle-to-blade-weight ratio.

THWACK THWACK THWACK I LOVE this knife :D :D :D

RL
 
RL:
Did you experienced any blade play after all those flicking? How long you have the CQD and how often you play with it? I do agree with you that the opening sound is very nice and I thought this is a knife made to be use hard!

Tell me what other tasks you can perform with the CQD. When my knife return to me (hope ASAP) I should have a very tact and strong blade!
 
I168,

Funny you should ask...I was planning on writing a long-term update (eventually). In short, I love this knife more and more every day! It has been my EDC for over a year now and I can't see that changing anytime soon (although it may have some competition from the custom Wortac I have on the way :) )...despite all of my searching, I can't think of a better designed tactical folder (I will talk about this in more detail in my eventual review :) ).

In answer to your question, I would estimate at least 200 flicks by now. So far so good! (hope I'm not painting the devil on the wall here...)...there is no blade play but the blade has certainly become more "loose", meaning that it is certainly easier to open and close.

I try to control myself because I don't think that the knife can withstand this abuse forever. On the plus side, I think that the plunge lock mechanism is better suited to "flicking" than a liner lock because the blade and the lock are of similar "hardness"...so, for example, on a liner lock such as my custom M1, the hard Stellite blade would do considerable damage as it came crashing into the "relatively" softer titanium liner (as explained to me by Greg Lightfoot)...also, the dual thumb-studs on the MOD smack into the aluminum handle-slabs, reducing some of the impact on the lock.

RL
 
RL:
You seem to know a lot about knives and your explaination was both simple and clear! I just got off the phone with Jim Ray(MOD)and they have received my knife. He told me that there is a dent on the plunge lock bar from most likely wrist flickings and he told me that this type of opening method is not healthy for the knife. He also stated that even with the short time I have it, one or two wrist flicks would damage the lock and in the future this type of opening method should not be use.

He did stated that the automatic one is built to withstand the force and will not do any damages. Jim is very nice and MOD will repair the knife and I should have it back by the end of this week. He also assured me that with proper care this knife should last me a life time.

You said that you have done a lot of researches concerning this knife in comparing to others, what is your opinion on the Strider AR/GB? I read in the forum that this is one hell of a tough blade. I am not trying to compare the CQD with the AR/GB but what is is the pro & con on these knives?
 
Originally posted by Investigator168
RL:
You seem to know a lot about knives and your explaination was both simple and clear!
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks for the compliment...I always thought of myself as a beginner!

My comments about the MOD relate to the design such as the fact that you can use it as an impact weapon in any direction (including Gunting-like strikes with the top of the closed blade) and you can hold it in ANY grip (including Filipino, reverse grip-blade in, reverse grip blade-out) etc. etc. (hey, I don't want to give it all away :) ).

I don't have any experience with the AR/GR but I have read the same things that you did...namely that it is a very tough knife. Incidentally, you should read the thread about flicking on the Strider forum...they say it shouldn't be a problem and they will simply replace the stop pin for you if anything goes wrong (something to consider!).

If you are interested in "mega" (or "beefy") folders and you don't mind paying for customs, you might want to look at Farid's work with his diamond-coated tungsten carbide blades (edge hardness of 80+RC!!!) or Jeff Hall's Bounty Hunters. I'm considering the Laci Szabo RAD (7" blade, 4" handle) even though there are certain design issues (e.g. the massive, heavy blade creates a lot of stress on the lock).

BTW, Jim's comments are scary! I will really try to limit myself to one THWACK per day :)

RL
 
:cool:
RL: You do have pretty good taste about knives! I was also looking at the RAD last month and was about to order it from Larry at Bladeart.com. Unfortunately (or better yet, fortunately) they did not have it in stock. Well, I ended up with the CRK large Classic Sebanza which turn out to be one of the best folder I have ever bought! I think the Sebbie is a EDC knife that will fit daily requirments but a Strider Ar/GB will definitely be one that will serve other purposes!

I believe that the CQD will act just as good for those special needs but just like anything else, we are looking for some excuses to get another toy! It may not be a better knife but a different knife,just to satisfy our urges!

You sounded like you have some martial arts or Asian knife fighting background. I am Asian and have been in the Arts for a long time, but there are always someone that can teach me more. Thanks again for the info.
 
Just A Quick Question Sir. When You Say "flicking" Are You Refering To A Wrist Flick. I Recently Purchased The Le And Am Curious As To Their Strength Because Mod Said To Not Flick And I Found That Odd As I Thought These Were Heavy Duty Knives. Thanks
 
You can flick Spydercos, you can flick benchmade, you can flick emerson, you can flick CRKT, you can flick Cammilus. This is all per the manufacturer. It used to be you could only not flick Chris Reeves...but now MOD.

If one week's worth of flicking damaged the stop pin then the stop pin wasn't hardened sufficiently. I've flicked a benchmade spike for 8 years and yes there's a tiny indentation in the stop pin, but the blade isn't loose and the lockup is solid. I'd suggest dumping the MOD knife because it certainly isn't built for hard law enforcement use. Who wouldn't flick open those monster knives? With the Lady Hawk, I saw the MOD rep flick that knife open at the NRA convention. If it doesn't say not to flick in the instruction manual than MOD is not telling their customers the info they need to know.
 
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