Craftsman 2x42

J

JMH78

Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
6
I read a post about a year ago on modifying a Craftsman 2x42 belt sander so that the both edges of the belt overhang the platen. Can anyone help me with this modification? I would appreciate some pics of how people have modified this tool. Perhaps someone can put up a link to that old post. (is that possible? I'm not very forum savvy)
Thanks
 
If I'm not mistaken, I seem to recall member Larry Hensley (sp?) modified his platen without adding a ceramic platen liner. Perhaps you can look him up and see if he posted any info about it.
 
I did that. I'll take some pics tomorrow for you if no-one beats me to it.

I took the original platen, and milled 4 horizontal (as viewed when installed on the grinder) slots.

Then I milled (face & side) a cold-rolled mild steel bar to 1.813" x 7" x 0.3XX". The 1.813" dimension gives you a 3/32" overhang on each side of the belt. The 0.3XX" dimension is somewhat arbitrary; I just started with 3/8" bar and face milled the bar flat.

Then I drilled and tapped 4 blind holes to match up with the 4 slots on the original platen.

The steel platen is installed over the original platen and shimmed square to the work rest. The slots give you the necessary L/R motion that you use to center the platen to the belt. If you want to use ceramic, I would just skip the face-milling of the steel bar, and epoxy the ceramic to it.
 
Speaking of modifying a Craftsman 2 x 42...
In reading all the posts about one, seems like the main no no about it is that it's so darn fast....after using it for a month or so now, I see what ya mean....
I was gifted a bunch of 2 x 48 belts that I have to decide if I want to keep....if I added an arm up front of the Craftsman, with a small idler wheel, to accommodate the 48" belt, would this slow down the speed at all? Enough to make a significant difference in grinding steel?
As it is, it burns wood pretty easily, especially Osage.....
THANKS!
 
I kind of like the fact that it's fast on steel. If I wanted to stand there all day doing profiles and bevels, I'd use a file. ;) If I was doing machine finishes with high grits, I'm sure I'd feel differently.

I don't go super close to finished size on handle materials, though. It get too hot for most anything in that application, including heating up pins enough to sometimes scorch the material around them.

I haven't modded mine much except to cut away the top guard and remove the side plates. I can definitely see the advantages of the ceramic platen, though. I should probably get one before the stock steel one gets all beat up.
 
One of the major concepts of using belt grinders on steel is the cushioning effect of grinding on the rubber wheel. Graphite platen material cushions on the platen. This cushioning effect grinds faster and smoother than a hard surface Why use ceramic, glass, or steel? I have seen posts that the graphite platen material wears quickly, but I have found this to not be the case.
 
So the graphite wears well but generates less heat? I can sure see how graphite would be, for lack of a better word, self-lubing. Please elaborate, I find this very interesting. If it cushions, how does it help with flatness? I like flat grinds in many cases.
 
The graphite platen material is not so soft that it would interfere with a flat grind.
 
Not offhand, but one of the major suppliers (Jantz, TKS, Koval, etc.) carries it.
 
This is cool, I have one of these. Nice to see other ppl using the same stuff. I always thought my shop was real primitive. These mod ideas are cool. I've never had a problem over heating my material. I work barehanded and do a few file knives, for which over heating is a big no-no. I also use a 1" belt most of the time. I typically usa a Ohio Forge 4x36 to flaten and hollow grind and the 2x42 for profiling and beveling. Excuse me, but I need to go modify my platen now. :D
 
I did some searching... Can someone post a pic of their Craftsman 2x42? I don't know if mines newer or older, but mine has 2 idler pulleys and most pics show a version w/ just one. My platen is just a 1" piece of 1/8" flat bar w/ a single tab bent at the bottom to mount it just behind the rest. At least it's gusseted w/ a weld bead for a little support. now I need to figure out how to mount a real platen to the housing. Grrrreeeaaat....
 
panch0 said:
Big Smitty, Will those help with the bouncing with the higher grit belts?
Click to expand...

Yep, they are more forgiving than the metal or ceramic platen. You will have to find a creative way to secure them at the top of the platen. I welded on a tapped metal bar and the pad gets sandwitched between another bar secured with 2 bolts. I guess you could glue them also.
 
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