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Gehazi

Gehazi

Joined
Jun 30, 2013
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does anyone here work with brass and bone? or are you all leatherboys?-- this dha I just picked up has a sheath im sure that never matched it, I would like a fancy new one made but dont really want to bother kamis with just a sheath, so anyone who can work in brass and bone to make a sheath for a sword, I can pay!
 
I'm your man, how much pay?

Aw heck gehazi I ain't gonna lie to ya, your too good a man, I don't know squat about brass or bone cept T bones and Chicken bones and sometimes fish bones. I'm just a hungry gosh darn liar I guess.

I wish you good luck in your quest and know you'll keep us apprised of your efforts.
 
always, I have had loads of fun going into this , and by the end of it hopefully there will be a really cool sword from HI that resembles the best of the ones I can research, otherwise this is all for :



the sheath that came with this sword is for a much much smaller sword , the wicker wrapping is all that holds it together, as the blade has cut it completely in half over time, and when I pulled it out of the sheath when getting it in the mail, it is cutting the basket weave, so I really want to try to get together some kind of thing that matches the sword, I asked auntie if the sarki/kami are looking for any nonblade work ( time and materials allowing) but I am willing to go with someone on the fourms, but obviously not many of us are in the making brass and bone sheathes business :D

also for anyone who doubts the power of finger prints on carbon steel-- look at that blade, that was a moment of non thought probably by an owner some 40 years ago!!!(or some owners rascally urchins who seek out expensive things and play with them ) one fingerprint burrrrrrnnns


one of my antiques guys looked at the sword , says it is definitely a naga blade fixed into a burmese grip, these blades usually had a sheath that was a slat of wood with some grass wrappings to bind it , much like the much larger wide tip dao
 
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People like that Aranyik fellow sometimes supplies rattan sheaths for e-neps, but I have no idea if he could source an "ethnically correct" sheath for that dha.

I second that warning about old carbon steel and fingerprints. I noticed some of the blades I haven't touched in months were starting to turn dark. Thankfully I gave them a good cleaning and a layer of wd-40 before any permanent damage was done. Some collectors keep white cotton gloves by their collections for when they feel like handling their stuff, I might have to go that route. It takes no time at all to permanently damage old steel like that through carelessness.
 
I keep a silicone cloth, actually several handy for wiping down guns and blades. Some people are much worse than others, like they have an acidity in their skin of something. I try to wipe everything down after show and tell or fondling sessions. So far, so good.
I've been waxing my Khuks once in awhile. That seems to be working well too.
 
yeah i have a big pack of those white cotton gloves I think I will start that as well, even though I oil them whenever I handle them, you never know where a careless fingerprint lay-- love those silicon gun pads, will start keeping some with the blades bawanna advice ++
 
Is WD-40 the best oil to use to clean the blade off? I keep spraying the blade with WD-40 and wiping it off, and the cloth keeps on having brown stuff on it. I don't know if that means it's still removing corrosion or if it's reacting with the steel somehow and causing the discoloration.
 
The WD-40 is doing that because it's a solvent, not an oil (common misconception). But yeah it should work great for cleaning the blade, just put some acutal oil on afterwards for better long-term protection. I think the WD-40 is actually kind of brownish in color, not clear, so it may also be from that. Personally I use Rem-Oil gun cleaner but lots of stuff will work.
 
Personally I seldom use WD40 for anything, maybe door hinges. Over a period of time it actually turns into an adhesive, plus it's extremely flammable in a big way.

I really like a product Du Lite Kwikseal, a lot of gun manufacturers use it after bluing to stop rust and protect during shipment. It last a long time, has a wax type additive, it doesn't build up at all, if you wipe new on it takes off the old. Very good stuff. Hard to find for some reason. I actually asked Brownells's to stock it and they did for awhile then discontinued. Must not have sold enough.
There's lots of good oils out there now days. Everyone has their favorites.
 
I use three n one on all my blades, some people cant stand the smell but I dont really mind it , I am looking into finer oils , but not totally sold on that yet
 
I'll give 3-in-1 a shot for the time being and order some Du Lite Kwikseal for the long term. Thanks everone. Sorry for derailing the thread.
 
I use Ballistol alot too. I have a hard time finding the Du Lite. I just recently started using the Ballistol and it seems to work good too. Also works on wood, horn and even leather with discretion. It might discolor. Mostly just mineral oil.
 
That kwikseal shows as discontinued at a couple big retailers, but it looks like you can still order it straight from the manufacturer (only by the case, though.)
 
Bawanna said:
Personally I seldom use WD40 .....plus it's extremely flammable in a big way.
Click to expand...
Works great on tater guns...er I mean "in" tater guns:D

When I buy a gun at the local shop here they always give me them silicone prepreged cleaning cloths with their logo on them. I havent thought of trying them on my knives. A++ on that tip. Thats why you have a Tommy Gun and I have a Glock:rolleyes:
 
I'm going to order some ballistol next time I purchase enough through Amazon to get free shipping.
 
also boiled linseed oil works on wood and metal equally ( apparently?) never realized until it was posted somewhere in this forum, I think any oil pressed from plants is bound to be healthier for you to get all over yourself? its messy work upkeep
 
Boiled linseed oil has some pretty toxic stuff in it to make it dry quicker. It's supposed to be safe once it dries though.
 
does anyone have any thoughts on total submersion for antiques/ in mineral oil or ballistol? does it affect glues at all? or can i pretty much submerge a sword to try and rehab it for long term storage?

also the sheaths are really easy to make technically, I mean they are tribal in most cases, just two slats of wood with a place for blade, tied up with stuff, so I may actually try to make a sheath for this myself, but I really wish i could somehow wrap it in brass, I dont even know the tools I would need for that sort of thing :o
 


Top half was treated with beeswax/mineral oil mix. It clearly darkened the leather, I assume the mineral oil did this. I'm going to try clear kiwi wax next.
 
I suspect just about anything you put on that nourishes the dried leather is going to darken it. Don't matter what it is. If the mineral oil darkened it, it might lighten back up given time also.

It could be that it was dark to begin with and has lightened over many years?
 
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