Creating Original Edge With Magna Guide

[redsquid2]

I have always made the original edge in the past by free-handing. I just don't like how I keep scratching the bevels.

I noticed there is a Diafold that is Course/Extra Course. I think one of those would be nice to use as a file, but also to use with the Magna Guide for creating the rough edge. Have any of you done this? I have never used a Magna Guide. That's why I ask.

Thanks for your input.

Andy

 

[Rick Marchand]

There is no reason why it wouldn't work. How much stock do you normally leave at the edge when you set your secondary bevel?(the main bevel... I use the Japanese definition that the cutting edge is the primary and everything after is secondary.) In my case, I grind/sand my secondary bevels sharp. Very little stock is removed to create the primary cutting edge.

 

[redsquid2]

There is no reason why it wouldn't work. How much stock do you normally leave at the edge when you set your secondary bevel?(the main bevel... I use the Japanese definition that the cutting edge is the primary and everything after is secondary.) In my case, I grind/sand my secondary bevels sharp. Very little stock is removed to create the primary cutting edge.

Thank you for your response, Paul.

I have always thought of my bevels as just two: the one I create before heat treat, and the final one that I create after heat treat.

Using A2, what I do is send the blanks out to heat treat with approx. 1/3 mm = .013" thickness at the edge. I don't have calipers/micrometers, so I just make an eyeball estimate of 1/3 mm. When they come back from heat treat, I just sand off the oxidation, and create the cutting edge. So when I do that cutting edge, I am starting with probably less than .013"

Edit: .013 may seem thin for sending it out to H.T., but doing this with air-hardening steels, I have not had problems up to this point.

Edit: I just called you "Paul." Sorry, Rick.

 

[coldsteelburns]

Hey, here it a very good "trick" (but stupidly obvious :grumpy: ) that I recenly saw another knifemaker doing to avoid scratching his polished bevels while adding the edge to his knife. Using frog tape to cover and protect the bevels.. Simple as that, but he uses a jig on his belt grinder to sharpen, but I'm sure it will help at the very least a little bit no matter how you add your primary edge

Here's the vid:

[video=youtube;eDHxENG9AAQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHxENG9AAQ[/video]

BTW, you can call me Paul

-Paul
www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed

 

[redsquid2]

Hey, here it a very good "trick" (but stupidly obvious :grumpy: ) that I recenly saw another knifemaker doing to avoid scratching his polished bevels while adding the edge to his knife. Using frog tape to cover and protect the bevels.. Simple as that, but he uses a jig on his belt grinder to sharpen, but I'm sure it will help at the very least a little bit no matter how you add your primary edge

Here's the vid:

[video=youtube;eDHxENG9AAQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHxENG9AAQ[/video]

BTW, you can call me Paul

-Paul
www.youtube.com/Lsubslimed

Thanks, Paul. I never thought to use tape like that.

 

[Hengelo_77]

DMT has 120 grit plates (for ski's and snowboards) Thats's what I start of with. Saves a lot of time

 

[redsquid2]

Well, I ended up getting the DMT Aligner, with Fine, Course, and Extra Course (220 grit). I was afraid anything courser might be overkill. Maybe I will get the 120 grit at some point. I don't want to spend any more money on tools right now.

Using a slack belt seems like a good idea, but I don't have one, except a 2X42, which is like a Tasmanian devil with sandpaper teeth.