Crisp grind lines by hand?

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PaMtnBkr

Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
393
Hi folks,
I am in the process of making my 2nd knife and do not have a belt grinder, just files and sandpaper. My question today is, how do you keep grind lines clean and crisp when using files and sandpaper? I ended up w/a very nice convex blade but was not intending it that way! I do use my sandpaper on a sanding "stick" to keep things flat, but cannot keep the lines crisp except for the plunge area which is because I use a file guide for it. Thanks, Don
 
And don't put all your weight into the file! It flexes the file just ever so little to give a convex surface. When getting close to shape lighten up and let the file do the work. Unless you have a huge, heavy ODB file that can hold up a buick, I have noticed it with most of my files. My 14" magic cut halfround Nicholson is the only one that doesn't flex noticably.


-X
 
You might also take a look at your files. If they are foreign made, like China or India, the files themselves are often bowed a bit when new. Buy good files and inspect them before purchase for straightness.

I learned that in taking a jewelry class at the local community college. We were making but joints to silver solder and mine were always crowned a bit from side to side. I finally looked at the file and saw that it, and most of the others in the class, were warped.

Gene
 
draw file and when using paper wrap the paper around a flat and hard (metal) block.
Have just 1 layer where you sand, don't wrap it around several times.
There was a very good hand finishing tutorial by Nick Wheeler on here. Check that out
 
Thanks All!! I am currently using Sears files, they seem to be pretty decent? they cut well at least. For my sand paper, I am using a 10" long Pc of 1x1 Alum Tubing w/a slot cut in the end to hold the paper in place. I'll have to check out the various videos and tutorials and adapt my technique accordingly!
 
fast14riot said:
And don't put all your weight into the file! It flexes the file just ever so little to give a convex surface. When getting close to shape lighten up and let the file do the work. Unless you have a huge, heavy ODB file that can hold up a buick, I have noticed it with most of my files. My 14" magic cut halfround Nicholson is the only one that doesn't flex noticably.


-X
Click to expand...
Putting your weight into it also makes for deep scratches that are harder to sand out.
 
remove bits of steel that get stuck between the files teeth. They give bad scratches.
Remove them with a piece of brass(or copper bronce etc) or a file brush
 
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All the above is great advice, the only thing I have to add is to drill a couple of holes in the tang and screw your blade down tight to a straight surface, preferably one that will allow you to work the blade from various angles. being able to work an unmoving blade is a great benefit. Then, you can unmove the screws, flip the blade, and start on the new side. Made sure you have a straight, hard backing to your sandpaper and avoid uneven strokes. I can tell all this because I'm currently doing all this on a sword, and it does help a lot.
 
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