Criswell question

BlackKnight86

BlackKnight86

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Are Rob Criswell's swords ground more for tameshigiri, or are they suitable for harder use (i.e., traditional/combat)?

Thanks!
 
I don't know what tameshigiri means but all his swords I have owned were hollow ground. A hollow grind produces a fine but somewhat delicate edge. However I have chopped some branches, lots of blackberries and one rooster (couldn't catch him) with my wakizashi with no damage other than some slight discoloration and (after a long time) the need to resharpen the edge. I am getting ready to get another Criswell as soon as I can.
Josh
 
All reports are that they are pretty tough beasts that should stand up to just about anything, however, if you want to practice traditional arts it's highly unlikely your teacher will be enthusiastic about you using such an untraditional sword... not to mention a kydex scabbard...
 
Thanks, guys! I had read somewhere that sword edges optimized for tameshigiri (cutting those rolled-up rice mats) had a tendency to be ground a bit thinner than the traditional combat grind...sort of like a rifle that is optimized for target shooting rather than combat. I do practice with tameshigiri targets, but I'd definitely prefer a sturdy "combat" grind. I don't want a traditional sword (not at that price range, anyway), and I've heard good things about Criswell's swords. Someday I'd like to get a Howard Clark sword, but for now I'm sticking with a tactical style.

Knifemaker, do you feel that Criswell's hollow grind is not too delicate for a good, solid user blade? Also, where do you get your Criswell's? Is there a waiting list, or are they generally available?

Thanks, again!
 
I think: http://www.weatherlycustomdesigns.com/robb01.htm would be the best place to get one. He is not grinding during the summer but there are still some of his pieces from spring that either are not claimed or that were but were never paid and will be available soon. They tell me he is working 4 12s at his regular job right now so pretty busy.

I think his grind is just fine for general purpose. I have chopped branches including oak, boxes, milk jugs. I protect my wakizashi more than my bowies and such so have never chopped into anything I expected to hurt the edge. There is no damage from the oak etc. It is a little dull but that is the result of using it for the last several years without sharpening.

Every one I have seen gives high marks for the balance of his swords, I am going to go against the flow a little here. My wakizashi is incredible, VERY fast and well ballanced, it feels much more powerfull than the 20" blade would have you expect. The 31" katana I had did not seem well ballenced. Bear in mind that I am not familiar with katanas but it seemed like there was too much curve and it carried the weight too far back so that it wanted to fall over sideways. For all I know all katanas are that way but I didn't like it.

I don't think it would have the same problem with a shorter 28" blade and suspect he has fixed it in more recent swords. I like his improved style on the tsuba, he is doing most of them out of titamium now and they look really good.

If you like them but don't like the style of the handle wrapping or the kydex sheath get one and make your own handle or sheath.

I know what you mean about the Howard Clark blade, sometimes when I feel like wishing I go to: http://www.summerchild.com/summer.html
and look around for a while. He has Clark blades from time to time.

I guess to sum it up I don't know what "user blade" entails to you but for me his pieces have been very usefull and I wouldn't part with my wakizashi from him for anything, well almost anything, now if someone offered me a Howard Clark with a Summerchild pollish......
 
I am not sure if A-2 steel hardened to HRc 62 is a good choice for a long blade. I may be wrong but if to look at most of the functional blades, they are either in the range of HRc 50-55 or differentially-tempered with the cutting edge close to HRc 60 and the back of the blade in HRc 45-50. There is an obvious reason for both of these options of hardness. Again, it all depends on how the blade is going to be used: to slice salami and cheese or to open cans and spread butter :) Also, I wonder if the Criswell's swords are really differentially tempered: it says so in the sword's description on the eBay but not on the Criswell's web site. The quality of the pictures on the latter does not allow to see the blade's details that may indicate the presence of such differential heat-treatment.
 
I don't see any indication of differential temper in my wakizashi blade and I don't recall hearing that he differential tempered from any of the websites that sells his swords new.
 
I have been collecting Criswell swords for several years now. According to Rob his swords are made from A2 and are differentially vacuum heat treated with a 60-61 RC edge and 56-58 RC Spine. Just a slightly softer spine for flex.
 
Bimmer1 said:
I have been collecting Criswell swords for several years now. According to Rob his swords are made from A2 and are differentially vacuum heat treated with a 60-61 RC edge and 56-58 RC Spine. Just a slightly softer spine for flex.
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Thank you for clarifying this matter. I either need another pair of glasses - or this information is absent from the smith's web site :). Also, I would personally prefer the HRc 50 for the spine.
 
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